Gixer1460

Add a 3/8 to 1/2" adapter to the 3/8 hex socket and use a 1/2" impact driver - usually a good clout with an engineering adaption tool will shock them free. I've never used heat on anything.

Oily / soft gunky residue - clean off with petrol / solvent / thinners. Anything harder can be tackled with a BRASS wire wheel tool - don't be tempted to use a steel version as it can scratch seats. A flap wheel using Scotchbrite material works well. Valves can be cleaned if chucked into a drill using Scotchbrite. Nothing needs a 'mirror' finish just clean. Unless the valves or valve seats have been burnt or are pitted they won't need re-cutting, and if valves are going back into the same position in the head, they won't need grinding / lapping - some do it but it is unnecessary (the factory doesn't do it with a new engine!) as clean valves and seats, banging together 8x a second at idle, soon wear in together! Be careful with the valve seals, they can be a bit tight - sitting them in warm oil before fitment sometimes helps and make sure they are fully seated as valve spring retainer will bash them and then you'll be doing the job all over again!

Lighter colour means hotter burn. That isn't that bad - i'd say almost ideal. The other cylinder though ! ! ! either too rich or not burning efficiently! I've had heads with exhaust valves that come out white and whilst fairly extreme it's just a lean burning tune for max. fuel economy, not lean enough to burn / melt valves or seats. I'd be looking at #3 cos looking at the plug it's almost at the point of misfiring!

Maybe so but it'll increase the 'finger pull' pressure making the lever feel firmer!

Leave it alone - chicks dig scars LOL!

The phrase is ' has less surface tension' therefore flows easier / is less 'sticky' Just because things 'look' ok doesn't mean they will be. These valves will probably be getting on for 40 yrs old so generally replacement saves an awful lot of grief long term!

Well you learn something everyday! I wonder why they went that way when the 1100's went from 4 spring straight to diaphragm?

My sympathies with that condition but no reason the clutch can't be converted, it's just going to take some engineering. Find a bike with a hydraulic clutch that suits your strength and replicate the master cylinder bore size, the slave cylinder bore size and stroke and ensure the stroke matches the case clutch lever required travel - you may have to change the ratio to match.

What is the 6 spring clutch from? As to my knowledge all of the oil burners only had 4 spring or diaphragm clutches. Early AC motors had 6 springs but were much bigger, later GSXR bikes went to 5 spring I believe?

Can't imagine it would do any harm!

Look at Haynes Manual page 89 - picture 22.3a and there is the crosshead in the end of the rocker shaft and on the following page 22.3c shows a bolt being used to withdraw the shaft. I suspect that there should be screws in either end to maximise oil pressure to the rocker bearings as its piss poor at the best of times - so its not a bodge unless its a Suzuki bodge LOL!

Airflow causes depression which is what lifts the slides so restricting the inlet area won't help! Usually a dynojet kit will produce the required fix - although some will disagree LOL!

884cc is the generally accepted 'big bore' but some tuners have taken them out to 950cc with clever mods. Re : your find - the Bonnie is meh, depending on condition, the CB750 shouldn't be mentioned but if the sohc type, has cult following, CBX - boat anchor and the Zed - well , its a licence to print money if clean and original - not many are!

Unplug it - no more problem. Use trip meter to monitor mileage between fuel stops ie. re-set at fill up - range 150? miles, start looking for fuel @ 130?

It's not critical - rocks, debris, bits of old gasket - remove. If you are OCD about stuff then some thinners or acetone should get it off but it won't hurt to leave it!

Starter motor behind the headstock! - novel, but whatever floats yer boat LOL!

But isn't this a bespoke install so shouldn't have to cut a frame to fit a kit - rather make kit fit the frame? Whilst an HSR (as fitted above ) is a good carb, Mr Turbo kits usually developed using S&S carbs which were considerably shorter so clearing the frame? I'd even consider turning the TB through 90 deg. to face backwards and fit under the seat?

Using the above picture for reference - once the carbs are removed and the plenum takes their place, it should be no where near the frame so nothing needs 'notching' ! There is loads of space. . . . . whether you can get the turbo into the space behind is another matter. The TB can be located almost anywhere as its only moving air - injectors in the plenum - job done!

that pretty much rules out electrical fault - so looks like the carbs are coming off!

So you are using 'evidence' from a car, two cylinder head , modified for excessive boost against a 4 cylinder head with normal studs and torque fasteners - talk about comparing oranges and bananas!

How does fitting the head to the bottom end affect valve clearances - the two are not interconnected?

Likelihood that the winner will be in a canoe rather than on two wheels !

The 41's will certainly work on a 1216 but will be very top endy. But for a road bike 36mm RS flatties might lose 10 - 15hp overall but the midrange will be stonking which is where most use tends to occur!

Whilst I know of a racer that fitted 3 different sized pistons just to get through a race meeting the resultant vibration was unbelievable so I couldn't recommend overboring just one cylinder! An OEM std piston, new rings and a 'gentle' hone should work for you providing bore damage ain't too great.

Not if its fuel injected as well - but I suppose that applies to anything! I'd really like to do an 'old skool' laid out install but have an S&S tractor carb converted to a throttle body (just add a TPS and gut the rest) with injectors mounted in the plenum firing straight down the ports - I reckon it would be awesome!