Gixer1460

Just thinking the same - retarded ignition on high boost starts the burn later, which could still be burning into the exhaust phase so overheating valves and nibbling turbo turbine blades. You won't see it on the output but will eventually in reliability!

Schematics is easy - see below, but pressures is tricky - pressure at main gallery is quoted by suzuki but not at every 'point of use'!

What is your setup and the application you are intending - why using such a large pump? If you do need that pump then a return back to the tank would be advised or you'll need a better regulator - Malpassi for example!

Not trying to sound smart but that's because 1100's have 5 gears and 750's have 6! And apparently there is a size difference but I can't confirm as never seen the two side by side. Any o ring that correctly fits the o/d of the switch will work.

Would be odd as cylinder studs can normally be reversed / fitted upside down ie. threads same both ends M10 x 1.25 (metric fine)! M10 x 1.0 would be a bespoke thread - not regular.

I dunno - I'm facking guessing hence the ??? after everything! Last one's I got were £300 inc boring..............if i'm out of touch - flame me if you want!

Is it really that much cheaper? JE hi comp pistons - £450 inc boring? Against s/hand Busa pistons £100 + boring £60? + Barrel surfacing £60? + DOT head £150? - total = £370 and lightly to be sub 11:1 CR? Add in a new set of rings (not essential but why not with fresh bore) £80? and costs are comparable.

Used both pumped and non pumped with my Kawazuki - tank was fitted with twin non vac. Kwak taps - plenty flow into an S&S Shorty. Didn't much like the Facet pump - only used it to race.

And -6 as that's what I used for the EFI pressure hoses on mine - rubber was just too 'chunky'

No you can't as that just forms a closed system! Any crankcase compression wouldn't vent so would lead to oil leaks and potential blown gaskets. Always take breathers to open air via a filter or a catch can as they will breath vapours / oil mist.

Part # 09280 - 36001 I suppose you're gonna ask me to pay for it next LOL!

See here - part # 39.......

Nowt wrong with Dyna S - only 4 wires and it's good to go. Good fit with the old ET engine as the ATU is required and that has the deep cover ...... EFE guys have to find those bits to use an 'S'. No performance advantage but you do lose the near 40yr old electronics!

Braze over - use someone local or DIY solder could be an option?

I understand the conversion for your disability but some of the relative lever angles could be improved and there are a lot of joints that introduce slack / backlash so 'delicacy' in gear selection could be problematical. My first thought when you described your problem was use an old C90 type 'heel and toe' type shifter - very direct and don't have to move your foot at all - just rock it, toe down or heel down for gear selection? But the GSX clutch is a 'bit agricultural' as regard tolerances and will appear sloppy / loose / worn when its fine with no problems. The hubs and baskets do suffer with the 'ridging' noted above, both being aluminium doesn't help together with steel of the plates. They can be filed out to smooth off but its a temporary fix - the symptoms will usually return, replacement is ultimately the required fix! Flat steels essential - grinding fairly extreme for a road bike - just make sure none are warped. Assume you are using OEM Suzuki fibres - others can be problematical, proven many times via this site and racing community.

Yes those valves can be used - they need to go in the collector to get maximum draw and with an exhaust having no back pressure - Ken Cooper used on his drag bikes for years! They ain't called anti backfire valves for no reason - an open line to the crankcase with highly volatile air / oil vapours from the exhaust could blow the crankcase apart quite spectacularly! And as the vapours do contain oil, you'll have a constant blue haze behind you!

Ah - see that now a altered the pic brightness! Yes - forged 90's would be lots lower. A M8 used straight head fittings with 180 degree fittings which were orientated at about 45 degrees and the hoses were virtually sitting on the cam cover - doesn't help does it......LOL!

Turn them upside down then the 90's can face forward towards the cooler?

Both will obtain the same objective - but the thick head gasket will be more prone to failure due to exposure!

Reminds me of a story about a very well known bike racer who got to end of the year having blown most of his shit up and couldn't afford new, so bored a set of barrels with one cylinder @ 1327 size, 0ne @ 1550 size and two @ 1427 size - vibrated a bit but held together for the whole meeting! With desperation anything is possible!

Logically my head says if the pistons are actually heavier then surely this unbalances the crank and should have some weight added to return the 'status quo'? Not easy to do - have seen tungsten slugs added to V8 cranks to achieve this but its not usual. I guess Bike OEM pistons are just 'pretty good' in regard weight vs use to start with!

Unless my melon has turned to mush overnight (possible) that scale says 344g not 355 !

Provided you never exceed 5psi boost ........ maybe? You generally need a couple of psi for carb as static then boost added on top and most like some headroom as well. A well regulated EFI pump is the usual choice.

The 750 GSXR version had 38's with a different casting that 'down drafted' the carb angle - the one off the 750F (or whatever it was called) may have used 36's - not sure if the casting was the same?

DOT head won't fit a 600 Bottom end! More than likely someone has had the proper 38mm 750 rubbers and tucked you up with something black and inlet rubber shaped!