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Everything posted by Gixer1460

  1. Its a gearbox problem - they are ALWAYS expensive LOL! Sounds possibly like a bearing or two have gone bad! Recent noise or has it been building over weeks / months / years ??? That's as far as my g/box knowledge extends though!
  2. You can lead horses to water but . . . . . . . . .
  3. Regardless of fitting difficulties - 40mm carbs are a PITA to tune even when fitted to the correct bike at the factory especially if the airbox is removed!
  4. That's an air cooled size engine! Did you mean 1157? ie the Blandit engine? which is essentially a 1127 engine. Been done a few times but most can't see the benefit unless the engine is so 'peaky' that it requires use of multiple gears to stay in the narrowed powerband. Busa box deffo won't swap into OC cases.
  5. No empirical evidence here but I suspect the 'instant' cooling effect is real but the minimal power increase is down to the water taking up volume in the cylinder whilst providing no combustibles. The air density may increase slightly due to the cooling and so aid with detonation but I suspect any added fuel serves hardly any 'useful' purpose other than a bit more cooling / lowering the AFR even further. Carrying useful quantities of water mix will pose problems and risk of running out whilst at high boost could prove terminal - maybe good at the track where levels can be monitored but for a road bike even with the inherent impracticalities an air 2 air IC alone or with the use of E85 must be a better solution long term. I know I could run my system with pump piss up to around 1 bar boost very safely but using 2+ bar boost, I must use decent fuel - C16 race fuel or similar - easy choice, as nothing is free, there are always trade off's!
  6. Re the above chart - I thought the 600's had a different cylinder spacing to the 750 / 1100 engines? So how would the camshafts interchange?
  7. Its not too hot! - most watercooling systems are pressurised and run 70 - 80 degrees C so the delta from intake air temp in the above post to coolant temp is approx 130 deg C - that is a significant cooling potential. Agreed there will be a degree of heating off boost, but once into boost, air will be heated (basic physics) and parity will soon occur! And if going for ultimate performance and short run times, like drag racing, then a ice water IC makes sense but even then at, say, 40psi and 8 - 10 second run, that ice water is near enough boiling! Just about everything has been tried in connection with cooling charge air - I like the idea of a methanol / alcohol / water spray over a air - air IC or even a CO2 / NO2 spray as the coolant is so cold at point of contact or has a huge potential for sucking heat away due to evaporation, as to achieve sub ambient intake temps. Combine these with using alcohol as combustion fuel and boost potential sky rockets! I believe Indy cars race using Methanol and boost level is capped at 50psi and they run virtually flat out for 4-500 miles - no mean feat!
  8. I'd generally agree air to water IC's make sense IF the engine is already water cooled! Trying to install a standalone water cooled solution on a bike is crazy - the original engine makes more heat so needs bigger cooling capacity, the boost requirement with excess heat requires an IC, a water cooled IC needs a) all the air side plumbing b) the water side plumbing c) the pump, power supply & possibly the controller and d) a water radiator to dump the IC removed heat! Yes the picture of 'Project Laaarge' has a water IC but Sean has always been a bit strange and doesn't think 'normally' + its designed to run under extreme boost for 5-10 seconds max - nice practical 'grocery getter' LOL! I did talk with him that if he moved the oil cooler (under seat maybe) he could get a massive air 2 air in its place and his answer was ' it looks the mutts nutz though'
  9. And then, even if they are different, which is the better to use! Probably 2/10ths of FA difference, if any, in real world use LOL!
  10. I think the OP is referring to the fixing ctrs. of the adaptor. Plus - pretty sure Clive's picture has answered the question! Pingel's are pretty low profile in ht. terms, some OEM taps might be lower but don't flow as well ! If you do have interference problems its either a case of jacking the tank up to clear or move the tap position! I used to raise my tank 1/2" for clearance - it was hardly noticeable!
  11. Exactly as Suzuki San recommended. What size engine makes not a jot of difference to valve clearances!
  12. Simple answer - No! You are stuck with the drive gears off the starter clutch pack, the crankcase mounting is fairly single type only, fits affair and as std., the integrated electrics are ok ie. they don't have a particular reputation for failing unlike the earlier AC engines! Smaller 'race' type alternators have been belt driven off the end of the crank but its a lot of engineering, faffing about and they look goddam awful even with the best Rose Tinted glasses! Whether a crank mounted alternator could be made to work is debatable - IMO the limited rpm of the crank would limit alt. output as they are normally geared to spin at 2 or 3x engine rpm!
  13. True if NA, but you'll still have the biggest restriction which is the turbine. A ported head on the intake helps cylinder filling efficiency hence lower boost for equivalent HP but a ported exhaust only really benefits from a good polish! This minimises heat transfer, keeping gases hotter helps drive the turbo better!
  14. In that case, this sums up your predicament perfectly ! . . . . . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hKDi6ym3Ny0
  15. I guess you've already tried the screwdriver / blunt lever through the hole, block of wood on the case for protection and lever it out?
  16. I maybe wrong, but shouldn't there be a brass ball plug here ^^^ ? An Ultrasonic will not have caused that - unless it was ridiculously loose to start with ! And no, an ultrasonic won't get hot enough to either re-seat it or get it out! They are usually oversize for the drilling and force fitted from outside!
  17. The one the factory should have / could have built - would have sold shed loads! Just about everything with that bike is 'as it should be'!
  18. And why change the swinger - its got a 5" slot FFS! You'll only sell it at a loss then want another when the bug bites again! Only cost is a new chain!
  19. Nah - Burn the Bindit . . . . . that Kat in the background looks FAAAAAR more interesting - barndoor intercooler NICE!
  20. Again this is my preference, I prefer to (if possible) deck the pistons to as close to the top of the barrels and use a head gasket that will give 0.035 - 0.040" / about 1mm max squish. A good squish band will assist in supressing detonation and improve power for lower boost. The MTC piston crown's are quite thick so combustion bowl can be enlarged to tailor the CR required - another bonus.
  21. Competition vehicles and Drag orientated machinery in particular get torn down so regularly that any fastener used is unlikely to vibrate loose over time, if super critical, Loc-Wire is preferred for speed and ease and visual inspection. The Loctite product used will be either a semi permanent thread lock ie. for things like cylinder studs into crankcase - these are very rarely touched but need a firm hold so semi-permanent product used, others would be rubber inlet stubs to cylinder head screws etc. Other fixings that will be subject to vibration but will be undone more frequently ie. during services - Points covers, clutch covers etc. would use a weaker blue thread loc. Personally i've never used ANY permanent thread loc - always Blue stuff if used at all - actually quite rarely. I will however use either copper slip or moly slip greases on most fasteners where steel is against aluminium or steel in cast iron - basically as an anti seize which is far more important in my view!
  22. MTC have been supplying turbo pistons since forever! Many installs have been completed and championships won with MTC equipment. Personally I'd use the 80mm / 1186cc kit - easier to bore, leaves more metal in the liner and you've an overbore left if it goes 'pete tong' 10:1 CR may be considered a bit high but for 200hp you won't be using a lot of boost and a 1mm decomp plate is an easy fix if lower required for more boost later! Pretty sure this kit started out as made for the GSX1100 as about the ONLY off the shelf turbo pistons back in the day! Busa pistons are the cheap route but are a one shot deal - break a piston or rings and could be new barrels + rebore ! I usually plan on doing something once and spending to achieve that is ok - for me!
  23. I did that - not a minefield but not completely straightforward either, and it did what it was required to do. The turbo install was just for a look, see as the built compression was well north of 13:1. As piccies are always appreciated . . . . .
  24. Nice one CR - what bike is it from? The description on the Red / Black makes sense with the switch link to the neutral wire / plug now!
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