Gixer1460

How does fitting the head to the bottom end affect valve clearances - the two are not interconnected?

Likelihood that the winner will be in a canoe rather than on two wheels !

The 41's will certainly work on a 1216 but will be very top endy. But for a road bike 36mm RS flatties might lose 10 - 15hp overall but the midrange will be stonking which is where most use tends to occur!

Whilst I know of a racer that fitted 3 different sized pistons just to get through a race meeting the resultant vibration was unbelievable so I couldn't recommend overboring just one cylinder! An OEM std piston, new rings and a 'gentle' hone should work for you providing bore damage ain't too great.

Not if its fuel injected as well - but I suppose that applies to anything! I'd really like to do an 'old skool' laid out install but have an S&S tractor carb converted to a throttle body (just add a TPS and gut the rest) with injectors mounted in the plenum firing straight down the ports - I reckon it would be awesome!

Yeah but they really don't count being 'low rent' types LOL! Don't be tempted to economise with aftermarket they do go hard earlier than OEM and if on offer @ £2 - £32 + vat and post - ain't that back breaking!

Soli check in hand - earth the soli body or one of the thin wire terminals to battery negative terminal and connect + battery to the other soli (thin wire) terminal. If its working you should hear and feel a solid click - no click and its toast!

Seals - more than likely. Other things to look at is wear in the guides ie. check for valve rock. Also check valve stem diameters - they don't often wear but the guides do. They can be DIY replaced but not an easy job - easy if you have a press and a reamer to final size them. Regards porting don't go mad and DO NOT polish the inlet - you'll lose airflow!

You could try a helicoil but I wouldn't -much safer to find a good s/hand one or brand new? New available from Robinsons @ about £70!

As above, yes a light or sound of the knock is possible but particularly with a mechanically noisy engine like a GS or GSX - defining what is and what isn't knock is really hard. And if it's really bad, yes you'll get the warning - by which time it's happened, nibbled pistons or valves and what can you do about it? With carbs and fixed ignition you either re-jet or change fuel octane and / or change ignition curve which may compromise elsewhere in rev range, hence why it needs to be dynamic and adjust microsecond to microsecond and to learn what the new boundaries are.

Possibilities in what regard? They are not the easiest of devices to use AND get reliable data. They have to be placed to actually 'hear' the knocking above all the other mechanical noise and then output that to a datalogger. Some kits use a flashing LED or headphones but then you are back to trying to avoid the 'noise clutter'. I wanted to include one on a turbo install with Motec ECU but a Motec guy told me not to bother as you may get the data, but unless it can control dynamic timing adjustments on the fly it is pointless (not possible even on Motec at that time, still not now). Really, only of use in real lean burn engines trying to eak out fuel mileage with OEM ecu programming facilities to optimise dynamic ign. timing.

Good - you had the kit and so you'll find out for yourself whether it works or not. I like DJ kits and I acknowledge not everyone feels the same way but I only offer my experience, that they work for me, 'out of the box'. If I wanted to spend hours taking carbs off and on, thrashing up and down roads and repeating - then yeah i'd go the stock jets and needles route. All I know is that i've fitted a stg 3 kit to a GSXR 1186L motor with K&N's and bespoke 4-2-1 V&M Supersport exhaust - everything as DJ instructions and it took one jet change and 1/2 hr on the dyno to be perfect. And that kit came with needles and emulsion tubes which if they did wear (which they will) are covered by DJ's lifetime warranty for no-cost replacement!

As you've quoted my post, you either didn't read or understand my particular situation. My block / head are 6mm taller than standard - exiting sideways is not an option - mine MUST exit rearwards which entails removing carbs / throttle bodies / plenum and inevitably dragging the cover on the back of the head and dislodging the gaskets. Didn't say everyone had to do it this way, just why I do it this way! Whilst mine is a peculiar situation, I've seen and commented on enough posts on here of 'mysterious' oil leaks above exhaust ports to know that whilst it maybe easy to do, many times the 'mickey ears' do get displaced and so leak - often weeks after any work being done. A bit of RTV won't do any harm (note the emphasis!) but can save a lot of frustration!

In my case with a stroked engine getting the cover out and back in without the gaskets dropping off or being scraped off whilst trying to wriggle it out is a virtual impossibility without having them adhered with some RTV in the grooves. I've tried the 'old skool' trick using grease and it'll get you so far, but it's a shit load of faffing around to put it all back together only for it to leak all to save a few dabs of silicone.

Sounds about normal to me! They are a bit agricultural / mechanical sounding - maybe yours was too quiet because of tight valves? Trust you didn't turn the engine whilst tensioner was out?

If you assume the slabby pistons will be close to deck ht. with std rods - then use of std. busa rods will poke them out by nearly +2mm so needing a block spacer!

That is a small turbo!

Agreed on an 'outside the box' type mod - very functional and maybe 3mm plate is a bit overkill but it's unlikely to break. @Leblowski I think the benefit of 50% more fuel capacity precludes having a swinging tank that is not required for 99% of the time LOL!

Should be no oil in the wells so seems fairly conclusive?

Split inlet rubber boot ?

Not directly under as there is nowhere for them to go. Have you had the cam cover off recently? There is a drilling in the head from the plug wells to drain any water that gets in there but sometimes when doing head servicing the 'mickey mouse ears' rubber seals get misplaced and oil gets out of the head, into the well and dribbles out near the exh. ports looking like a gasket leak - which it sort of is !

Mineral oil is not the problem - what was used for decades before semi was widely available? Surflex is not a name familiar to me ie not common - most aftermarket clutches, particularly the fibre plates, are not rated highly compared to OEM. I used Barnett which were ok with a slight power increase but got 'hot & bothered' with turbo power! There is clearly something happening at 4k that is inducing the slip - probably a torque peak that is overcoming the spring pressure - try adding some washers to the bolts to increase the spring preload? Ranting now ! . . . . . UPSIDE DOWN COOLERS DO NOT DRAIN UNLESS YOU DRAIN THE SUMP ! ! ! It is a physical impossibility - air cannot get in to displace the oil as the ends of the pipes are under the oil level.

Looking at the cooler threads - they are goosed and probably, even with the correct threads, it's unlikely they'd tighten down correctly! Just hope the line fittings aren't equally mullered.

OEM valve seals are usually the 'gold standard' - aftermarket ones usually cause problems / wear out prematurely! Car turbo specialist - there's an oxymoron. The adequate dribble of pressurised oil won't do 'jack shit' for cooling - they are designed to run at and in excess of 900 deg. of course it's hot - thats how they work!

Could be ^^^ but more likely (in my opinion!) too much oil pressure to turbo / drainage from turbo. It gets past the bearings, into airflow and coats the inlet tract. Mine does it and it coats the insides of the intercooler as well - at least the aluminum won't rust! I have really choked down on the oil feed to the turbo - 1mm jet - but it still does it and at present I can't be arsed to sort it!