Gixer1460

Dezza M8, Spondon tube frames and Harris Mag 4's were never intended for wrapping - it'd just be wrong. With a fairing and from the front it'll look like a beach ball. Your bike but please think again?

In that case then a 10w60 will be no different to a 10w40! If it is start up viscosity then a 20w50 would be of benefit although this will generally hurt operation as engine not designed for it.

Thicker oils won't help with overheated oil......... control the temps with the right grade oil - winner winner chicken dinner!

SWMBO has a K GT550 that I built for her (f**kin waste of time as she'll never ride it now!) but that pootles around fine with the std clutch. Plenty of people are throwing bike engines into Smart cars and Mini's and they work with a std clutch.

You say 'Mountain Pass' ? So one could assume a bit of altitude? lower air pressure, both give poorer cooling performance but also engine performance - usually messes with carbs the most! So it may not entirely be the oil's fault!

Depends on what you want to know from the temps? As now its oil temp going to bearings, if you want to know hot hot the engine in getting then the sensor needs to be in the cyl. head somewhere in the flow of oil to the drains or within the drains. Both will be different!

They would be a good solution IMO. The bellmouth will help with flow (for what it's worth in a boosted application) I'd try and get the hole on the plenum metal as tight as possible to the rubber groove depth and deffo glue / seal it with some silicone / RTV - get both surfaces ultra clean. It would be a prime suspect area for boost leaks without sealant.

As I said - mainly used on cars where the long lines allow fuel cooling. Putting a return into the top of the bike tank is a bit more involved!

Not only head bolts / nuts but a check of valve clearances would be sensible - so i'd leave it nakid for a while! Heat cycling doesn't really load the engine - needs to do some work!

Or just wait till the next change?

Alphasports list these as #6 - 125mm x M8 and #7 -115mm x M8, so any good bolt supplier should be able to supply plated steel cap head screws - Grade 8.8 should be ok. Query - Isn't a Harris F1 a steel tubular frame not alloy ? ? ?

Don't do Faceache but looked at their site and couldn't find any info on the 'superfinishing' process - maybe it's some sort of blasting come polishing? Anyone confirm or clarify? The polishing aspect worries me as things like cams and valve stems have a certain 'roughness' to hold on to oil for lubrication......too slick, loss of oil = metal to metal contact? And why is no one else doing it - particularly engine tuners? Happy to be educated!

i'm not too skilled in reading compressor maps and have never seen that rule of thumb but Google says it is a good guide - I'm guessing atmospheric would be added, putting you in the 200-225hp region which seems about right for a T25?

Psssst - Read rule #5.................I didn't make them ! ! !

And forget a 11500 redline - doubt it will ever get over 10k - mine makes max power between 8.5-9k Looks like 15lb airflow at 1.6 pressure ratio looks about bang on ideal for max efficiency?

I used to get gearboxes for the Comp / FB from Robinson Industries Inc - New York USA. Bloody good gear, not cheap but worked except when pilot error bent the shift shafts DOH - LOL! Any gearbox that can go a whole season in a FB as a flat shift 5 speed auto without breaking will get my $$$

Least it won't burn you like oldskool turbo dump pipes - hands up who's done that! ...................yep check !

Oiy - i've got copyright on that ! LOL!

There isn't - the Blandit has essentially the same gear cluster as the last GSXR M / N's having a slightly better undercut on the dogs. They can be improved with a specialist 'pro cut' undercut which changes the angles to lock them better but a worn dog is still a worn dog and replacement will only improve the gears that get replaced...... 2nd is the usual one that normally needs 5th replaced as well as they run together as a pair.

Explains a lot!

Just looking at that drive belt - its about the same size as the one driving my alternator and water pump on the car - looks a bit undersized to me - a toothed Gates timing belt would be better?

Vent should always go to an airspace or it doesn't function as a vent! Using a -8 or -10 main to pot via gravity is fine just add the vent - 6mm is plenty. Can vent anywhere as long as above main tank.

The OEM's seem to like sprocket combinations that end up as 1:3 ratio ie 14/42, 15/45, 16/48 and 17/51. @gs7_11 - that is pretty tall - it is approx 15% overdriven compared to the 'OEM 1:3 ideal' but means needing approx 15-20+% more torque to achieve a similar acceleration!

The DOT heads have a different inlet angle and rubbers to suit the 38mm carbs hence the disparity so yes a bit of carving with a carbide burrs would help as that step will hurt airflow! Stuff the inlets with rags before you start - if not removing the head - not familiar with the rubber part numbers - assume they are from a bandit with 36mm carbs? GSXR part #'s usually end 10, 20, 30 and 40 to get them on correct inlets.

Anyone else clocked the rpm range - really ? just shy of 20,000 rpm? If that's not right - what else?