Gixer1460

I'm guessing the top one is stock 38 and lower is the Factory Pro kit needle? Query - does the Short needle fit the slide and does it stay in the emulsion tube at full lift? If it does then it may be how Factory Pro engineered the fuel flow ie. onto the Main much earlier? Ifit comes out of the tube completely @ full lift i'd not be inclined to use it as it could jam open at WOT - not good! It could actually be a 36mm needle?

Not the usual route but I used -10 with 90's .............. probably not the neatest way and the 90's acted as my lock stops LOL!

My Kwak based trike has a similar battery monitor that should have a graphite rod that dips into the acid - long since disappeared - so I just pushed a piece of SS welding rod through one of the filler caps connected the wire an my light went out! Wonder why Suzuki chose to call it a 'fluid level switch'. Still think that is a way of replacing the 'dip rod' - if you earth it does light on dash go out?

Looks brutal but that chain needs some love!

Can't remember what the Bl/Gn wire is from / to ............ but that resistor ISN'T standard!

Yep - the R/R is trying to charge a goosed battery - not good for long R/R life!

Bodging of the 1st order! That'll be interesting come chain & sprocket replacement time!

Wouldn't that have been the obvious place to look / ask first?

Site does have a 'Search' function - suggest its used first - RTFR ...........Oh, a Hello or an introduction is generally appreciated.

Bollux - simple physics - downward facing connections will not drain the cooler unless sump is empty.

And adding a 45 deg bend will put it straight through #3 exhaust! You need a 12.5 deg bend - not available for larger hose! I would be either straighten the #4 pipe more vertical, put a dent in #4 or re-centre the cooler to move the pipes away from the exhaust!

You can but I don't see what advantage it will give unless you want to kick the pipe out forwards?

From Workshop manual.......

That would also require re-making all the exhaust pipework - somewhat more involved! A standalone gate may be easier. But if the filter mounting screw can be removed then a re-made adapter with M20 on the engine side and a M16 thread on the filter side to allow a Yamahha thin filter may be the best overall fix?

How did you swop carbs around? Alternate rack or break the rack up and swap bodies around? Surprised it ran at all swopping 1 and 2 leads around as it would make ignition 180 degrees out ! ! ! You can swop 1 and 4 or 2 and 3 - no other combinations are correct.

As said, its normal and if you look, there is a bloody great big hole in the casing that you can see the crankshaft through - for drainage. This will have nothing to do with poor starting - look elsewhere LOL.

Given your OSS board name , I assume this isn't a boosted application?

Using eyeball measuring the 'el gringo' adapter and short filter don't appear any shorter than a std HiFlo HF138 filter @ 64mm ! ! ! This would seem to be a reasonably priced remote filter kit ..... https://www.Eblag.co.uk/i/112553893410?chn=ps

Wow - more of a gap than I thought - seeing the pictures, I concur with my learned friends evidence and support his conclusion m'lud - Guilty as charged!

Looks a very conservative curve - pretty much most engines have all the timing in by 4000 rpm tops. The extended curves possible with the Dyna 2000 never made any discernible difference on any engine i've seen.

Odd ! There isn't usually enough clearance between the rotor and the vanes to injest a whole screw head - usually swarf, maybe a thread?

If it makes you feel better, my 1460 GSXR is still using a std cut 'M' gearset!

The cup over the end of the screw is a neat idea - saves the threads getting mullered!

Certainly not but it is a nice thing to have - missing a gear through bad engagement or slipping out is never wanted.

Yeah I can see the problem! I know the ACU make the lanyard kill EVERYTHING electrical - we used to just kill the electrics to the ignition ie. to kill the engine but fuel pumps and nitrous caused issues - can't imagine why LOL! You'll have to seperate the general electrics from the starter electrics. The general electrics will be switched 'on' via a normal 30 amp relay and the lanyard. Looking at the relay terminals you have 85, 86, 87 and 30 and these will be connected as follows, 30 - 30 amp rated cable to battery, 85 - to chassis / battery negative via the lanyard, 86 - 12v feed from battery and 87 - feed to general electrics via fuse box (ignition, fuel pump, nitrous etc) As regards the starter i'm assuming you have a push button to spin the starter? If so, you take a wire from the ign. feed to the kill switch and from the other side down to the ign. ecu and the coils. Also from this side (usually internal to the switch) is a feed to one side of the starter button, the other runs down to a specific starter solenoid (a type of relay). Starter solenoids are earthed via their metal mounting to the chassis. The starter solenoid will have two big screwed connections - one side goes to battery and the other goes to the starter motor - both in heavy gauge cable 150+ Amp rated. Lots of words but it is quite simple.................really LOL!