Gixer1460

Read section 9 of the Dyna Instructions! The settings knob when turned left? controls NA advance curves & orange wire is a kill trigger - turned right? and retard degrees are selected and the Orange triggers their application - Clear?

Engine kill when the knob is in NA timing mode - when its turned to retard / boosted settings the Orange enables the retard addition - used it on mine and worked fine ie. it didn't kill the spark!

It's the way of the world - 'how fast can you afford to go' ?

I'd suggest - Ti pipe and carbon can? Ltwt. subframe? Carbon plastics? Magnesium wheels? Lithium Battery? so maybe 5 - 10kg's?

Looking at that picture . . . . . a long ways! Depends on what its for and how deep are your pockets?

Can't say about a mechanical supercharger but Sean @ Big CC did do a EFE head with equal sized valves in both inlet and exhausts following the above thinking and only did it once which speaks volumes ! It was an absolute dog for building boost - turbo obvs. Whether it would assist a mech. blown motor is anyone's guess but over the 100 or so years that the IC engine has been tuned and raced, no one it would seem, has made significant advantage by using oversize exhausts or using cams with equal lifts? The usual problem with any blown engine is obtaining suitable lift with minimal duration and overlap whilst not smashing the valve train to bits!

Depends where you are - 'Murica, Gods own Country - UK or other godforsaken part of the Planet? To which the logical choices would be Sudco, Allens and not a scooby doo!

Start and idle circuits tend to be separate from general running so a good cleaning, focusing on that area would likely be beneficial! Clean carbs are never a bad thing!

Bit of a 'catch all' statement. UK never got restricted cams and we are Europeans LOL!

DO NOT USE FULLY SYNTHETIC OIL - it causes more problems ....... mineral or semi synth only. Fully synth can kill the clutch in less than 50 - 100 miles! https://www.wemoto.com/bikes/suzuki/gsx_750_w_x_inazuma_js1ae/98-99/picture/fuel_tap_repair_kit - I hope you have an inazuma? They ain't universal - may fit / may not?

From a genuine 1100 Workshop manual, pages 3-64 and 65 . . . . . 750 should be similar I guess

Odd as a 15/52 is lower geared than a 15/48 and with a lower rolling circumference goes less distance per rev - maybe it runs a taller profile to equal a 60 profile on GSXR ? Yes weight would be an issue on accel. but as a general / touring use, top speed wouldn't be so crucial?

I was surprised to see that an 1100F used 52T rear as the GSXR1100 uses a 48T std. and mine used to pull a 45T quite easily. So no you don't want to go bigger unless you want zero front tyre wear! I thought they were both 17" rims?

Duff vacuum fuel tap or duff float valves. Expect fuel in crankcase as well - do not try starting engine if latter!

as you surmise - not something i've been looking for LOL! I was aware of the linked web site and although i've suffered a few RR failures i've never felt the need to replace a shunt RR with a Mosfet type, but cheap 'new' ,likely Chinese made units wouldn't be my first preference no matter how cheap!

Any single cut seats are usually 45 deg. Three angle cuts will be 30, 45 and 60 degrees - the smaller and bigger angles are used to regulate the 45 deg cut width - narrower for inlets and wider for exhausts for heat transfer. Beware though - the wider the seat, the more it affects airflow - usually downwards!

Yours is the first i've seen! How are they 'alleged' Mosfet? It's true the older Shunt type RR's are inefficient and tend to have limited lifespans but a Mosfet unit should provide far better regulation and reliability?

Usually one of the inlet rubbers has a take off specifically for this function and its size matches the vac. tap port? Not saying a carb top port won't work but they are really choked down for vac gauge idle set-up and stop the needle flickering too much.

Sounds a power feed problem as all you've listed usually have power to one side and rely on switched earths to illuminate or turn off (oil, neutral for example) Tacho is three wires - power, ground and signal so not difficult system to fault find!

What do the back of the valves / valve stems look like? If they are gunky then i'd suspect stem seals otherwise then likely to be rings! If you've got access to a leak down tester it'll tell you for sure - easier with the head on though LOL!

It was indeed. There is one pish poor picture in an early edition of a Joe Haile Turbo Bike magazine. Not a bad carb but largely unheard of in the 'West' LOL! If you are tight for space - a Weber DCOE 40 would fuel it perfectly and it's quite shallow like the PHH ?

On mine with an 1186 motor I had, one in oil filler, one centre of clutch cover, one on std cam cover breather and additional one on cam cover direct into the valve chest, that and the clutch cover were dash 10 hose, others dash 8 pipe.

Dunno where it is on an EFE as I've never had one but would suspect under the seat near the battery but if all lights gone that may have been removed also? As regards working - Indicators first - Ign live 12v to one pin of 2 pin flasher relay, other pin wire to indicator direction switch input. This splits the volts to either left or right. Pair up one wire from each light on each side including the dash repeater (if fitted) and wire to each side of the above switch with other side of indicator bulbs wired to earth . chassis ground. Lights - don't need a relay if it is a single headlamp - it will if dual lights or wired that dip and main are on when main selected. Simple circuit - - Wire from fusebox (live with ign.) to lights switch to sidelight circuit, output to front / back sidelights, other side of bulb to ground. Main lights - Wire from fusebox (live with ign.) to lights switch to main light circuit, output to dip / main switch. Outputs to either dip side or main side of bulb, other unused bulb terminal is earth / ground line. Easier to follow on a wiring diagram than trying to explain in works and make it understandable!

Yes you will , larger and as many as you can manage - IMO, two 13mm ID pipes would be minimum

And no increased valve pocketing required. DRL300 - good little box!