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Gixer1460

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Everything posted by Gixer1460

  1. Or re-centre the engine 4mm to the right! If the chain is clearing the tyre & is clearing the frame, I think moving the engine and preserving the chain clearance to cases would be preferable!
  2. This is a YT video from what i'd call an excellent engine reconditioning company - its a diesel engine but the principles are exactly the same. If you don't want to see the whole procedure, go to 29.30 for the valve work, but the rest is quite informative. Bear in mind that a dealer was quoting $20k for a new engine, I'm pretty sure this level of detail work would have resulted in a $8-10k bill - but based on what they did and found with parts for the rods at the end - which would you prefer to have (cost excluded)?
  3. Personally i'm not liking the look of the basket! Being steel they rarely get too damaged or worn - its the hub that takes the brunt due to being soft - yours looks brand new! I've never seen a steel basket with that much marking. Chasing the lock-up set-up can wait - if there is 3mm gap its good to go. As noted above, is the push rod correct length? When I swapped a spring clutch into my diaphragm equipped GSXR, I used the std push rod but added a 6mm ball bearing which give correct operation - i've used M6 nuts before as well. Has it ever worked correctly, as its seems like its been going on for a while?
  4. If its blowing out oil - you've got crankcase pressure problems, and if the engine is off, and stood upright and you still can't see oil in the sight glass - its underfilled! The first issue means either a blocked or defective breather or routed badly or connected back on itself making a closed loop . . . . . or the engine is worn and breathing too heavily! The second - put more oil in till the level is between the marks!
  5. Using this logic - if you need 50lbs of boost to go 400+hp, I think you've got more fundamental issues!
  6. If you like / are into / can understand, coding - the Speeduino could be a good choice as its based around an Arduino Mega - not very small board but packs a big spec! And I believe it has a degree of 'self learning' capability which could be useful - I was a bit sceptical of this a few years ago but they are really getting quite good. I saw a video of a Holley unit taken out of the box, given the basic info about engine, plugged in and it ran. Then on a drive it learnt and improved maps continually to a very accurate result - its not AI nor SkyNet but its bloody good nonetheless!
  7. Trust me, the fact that a guide has been removed and a new one fitted WILL mean the valve seat is not concentric nor perpendicular to the guide - no matter how careful you are. Commercial valve seat cutters use air bearings to ensure the cutters are perfectly aligned with the guides - I assume you don't have one, the average mill will have run-out and backlash in its quill, spindle and table - all these tolerances build up such that every guide could be mis-aligned fractions of degrees. If you are VERY lucky valve refacing and lapping in may work but generally it won't and for exhaust valves it is particularly necessary due to the heat transfer aspect especially with turbo applications! There are lots of very bright and clever machinists on this site and even they will trust their engine rebuilding engineering to other professionals, as 'nearly right' is not good enough! Not knocking ambition but has to be weighed against ability!
  8. Whilst most of us don't give a toss about undersized guides as it's the head or engine builders responsibility to re-size! Plus Suzuki San only has to fit his valves whilst APE have to allow for any OEM & aftermarket offerings! I trust you have seat cutting gear as new guides need seats recutting - just saying!
  9. Hardly Abletoo's use 1" bars - everyone else in the universe uses 7/8" - explain that one if you can
  10. I know of no bike that has required two fuel pumps! Dunno what a Bosch 044 pumps but is usually a go-to even with it's big amp draw! Just checked 270-300L/HR sufficient for 500hp
  11. LOL's in that case, seeing as you are resigned to boring cylinders anyway I'd punch it out to 80mm / 1216cc. Wider choice of pistons and CR available - even budget Busa pistons for low cost boosted use. MTC 10:1 turbo pistons known to have thick crowns to allow machining . . . . . . or just use high comp and add a spacer plate - its a bit ghetto but it works!
  12. But as the OP was talking about sourcing a 1127 crank, the above doesn't help them! And given time, tools, ingenuity and sheer bloody mindedness - anything can be made to fit most anything else!
  13. GS1000 / 1100 / 1150 cranks and rods can pretty much survive with std. oil flow / pressure as it amounts to virtual drip / splash lubrication. So increased pressure / flow only benefits the cams which is no bad thing - the increased oil also offers a degree of additional cooling - Suzuki didn't come up with the GSXR SACS system on a whim! Gearbox doesn't need an oil feed but the clutch does so unless you are drag racing when clutch gets reset every pass, its best not to restrict oil to gearbox long term!
  14. Whilst you know what engine you have, I / we don't so difficult to offer advice!
  15. Denso's or NGK's are std. fitment but Iridiums aren't and they really aren't suited for use with carbs!
  16. The '493' Katana rod is a proven high horsepower rod even if re-bushed for 20mm pins. If the application demands hours and hours of flat out running then all components are 'generally hours limited' so get replaced on cyclical basis! In my opinion its the acceleration / deceleration cycles that do the most damage, just like Nitrous is hard on pistons and rods but a turbo (hp - hp) is soft on them. I guess only by destructive testing or use, do you find definitive answers!
  17. It makes not a lot of difference two low tension connections per coil, two high tension outputs - coil 1 has plug wires to 1&4, the other feeds 2&3. It's a wasted spark arrangement so 1&4 spark together and 180 degrees later 2&3 will fire then it all happens again. LT side connections really ain't fussy!
  18. No one ever complains that Blandit rear brakes are particularly bad as std., so that sort of implies is the Brembo caliper! There may not be anything actually wrong with it, function wise, but more than likely the piston areas don't match the master cylinder piston size ratio - either under or oversize of each will give poor brake performance. Different pads may help but will always feel wrong / not right!
  19. Pretty sure the answer is No! Or at least not without a lot of machining and maybe welding.
  20. Absolutely! If you can't either the caps are mixed up, they aren't for that head, the cam is bent or the head is warped! Those are in order of likelihood of occurance!
  21. What's wrong with that? Compared to some others I've seen its about spot on, it'll keep battery well charged but not over-charged!
  22. I considered that but as fuel flow via intake is independent of vacuum with efi, I was considering using a BOV as a priority valve or open with vacuum, close with boost. Who knows if it'll work but costs nowt to try or add a carbon seal!
  23. What I was planning was 4 injectors close to head with single throttle body made from S&S shorty carb - would fool casual observer! Response never was an issue, just accurate fueling. Short primary exhaust 28mm tube to 32/35mm pipe to turbine worked well enough
  24. Forget my references to the 'ATU' - I see from the pic that yours is all electronic. The big hex is part of the rotor which is keyed to the c/shaft - otherwise instructions stand. Yes hold the big one, turn the little one - turn the key around as it'll take a bit of torque and using the short end will give better control over force applied!
  25. You say a 'suck through' has disadvantages but your proposal seems to have just as many just different! Packaging for one and laggy response for another. I think i've only seen one or two 'remote' turbo's fitted in bikes - neither were very good, they worked but not very well! Experience shows that either front mount turbo and blow through or rear mount and draw / suck through work well - i've done both but may try a suck through but with EFI to improve the fueling aspect - old skool looks but with better set up possibilities.
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