Gixer1460

New paint is an unstoppable force for gravity - don't balance the tank on anything or near anything that will (not if or could) fall on it LOL!

Reassembly of an obviously worn engine never ends well. The carbon was helping the CR and ring seal. You need to check piston / bore wear and ring wear in bore - likely they will be out of spec!

Black painted crankshaft, pictured in a coal mine with no lights! - we see nuffin!

I wouldn't trust a 40+ yr old unit - new or not! They are pretty rubbish - get an Electrx one and save yourself the grief!

https://www.yss.co.th/products/9682?pType&pSubType=BIGBIKE,ATV%2FQUAD,MOTORCYCLE,SCOOTER,UTV,ATV,SPECIAL PURPOSE

Without stroke dimension its impossible to answer!

Why replace the drive - they very rarely go wrong unless mated to a wheel not designed for them! Quick test for cable and guage - use a cordless elec drill at slow speed - should show movement & / or trip numbers counting up!

Its almost impossible to 'over' tighten them as the crosshead screws will round out waaaaay before the thread cries enough! German tight is fine! If worried about leakage a thin smear of silicone will ensure a seal.

How to make friends and influence people! If you're new, you should tread on eggshells until . . . . . . whenever! - then you can start with the personal insults!

Could also try Dom Tricket @ TVR Power - he's done some nice work in the past for commercial tuners and ProStock racers!

Roger Upperton or maybe Ray / Steve Debben - but they are all cracking on so maybe taking less work on these days?

Or if it has Busa pistons (to give the 1216 capacity) that would lower the potential CR down to reasonable levels?

And trying to fix is major PITA as the seats have to come out for welding, then machining for new seats, then a seat job . . . . . all for no benefit.

Up to you! - make some money to use elsewhere or use them knowing they are absolutely wasted in a 140 - 150hp? road bike? They are also heavier than stock rods and without re-balancing will produce more vibes - another bonus LOL!

Aftermarket rods really only needed for daft CR or excessive rpm's. Turbo's give rods an easier time. More rods have died due to oil failure than any other cause! Stock gsxr rods will survive up to about 250hp when gassed, nearer 280-300hp when turbo'd

Squished Coke cans is my guess from somewhere in China / India / Asia!

I guess he means adjusting the mixture screws! Set idle to where you want it idling then adjust mix screws equally - this will affect idle rpm! It's a balancing act !

Well, according to APE website 73mm is the largest overbore (+3mm) for the GS1000. But subject to the liner thickness you could use 74mm pistons for a GS1100. As it stands that liner is toast so its either replace the liner and overbore it out to match 73mm and check all the others for wear or pull the plug and take it out to 74mm? APE don't list a 73.5mm set but I didn't check everywhere LOL!

It may be hard / tricky to do, but adjustment whilst running can be done and ultimately each will be better balanced to the cylinder it is attached to! As said, that why they have vacuum ports!

I did in the above example except mine was a vented alloy tank! As long as crankcase venting is available - anything tends to work - empty beer cans have often been seen at a RWYB drag event!

Is this bike one of the ones that has one leg of the R/R output directed up to the light switch? If so, i'd suspect the R/R is Fubar'd and its allowing over voltage out to the lights but ALSO the battery. Do a quick meter check on the battery whilst running - anything over 14.5v at 3k rpm and its probably toast. Earthing to chassis isn't a problem . . . . . . unless it hasn't got any earth! Lights are delicate things and act like fuses with excessive volts or amps - everything else electrical is a 'bit' more robust!

A M8 with a nicely tuned Blandit 1216 tried my FCR41's - made stonking power but was an absolute bitch to ride on the road - like a racehorse pulling a milk float! I gave him some RS36's from an old race bike and it was 'Night & Day' difference - lost a bit of power (10 - 12hp) but gained a whole heap of torque right through the mid-range, back to lifting the wheel on demand through 3 & 4th - V Happy boy now!

Using stock ECU's (and in particular from different models) can be tricky a) Actually getting into the ecu software to allow tuning and b) matching all the sensors and sensor inputs that the ecu is looking for. Usually with a) there is initial difficulty 'getting in' and then the tuning options can be limited and with b) matching crank and cam trigger inputs / teeth count / missing tooth angles etc is the usual stumbling block. I realise using a 'stock' ecu is a cheaper option but for the ease of use and flexibility and more importantly Data Logging, a standalone ECU makes up for its cost in tuning and set-up time, which if you are paying someone else can be considerable! Plus not all tuners will be equipped to 'break into' stock ecu's and prefer to work on certain types of aftermarket units - so chose the ecu carefully, as if no one is prepared to tune it, it'll be down to you and 'seat of the pants' road tuning!

Blimey!, my first thought was that's low! My daily, of a brand that may not be mentioned, uses 36 / 42psi and has NO sporting pretensions whatsoever, just a regular commuter bike! I can't remember ever INTENTIONALLY running pressures below 30 on anything i've ever had!

Sean @ BigCC Racing could sort you out. They've probably built 100's of oil boilers over the years - slabbies and slingers - they are essentially the same. Don't phone today - it's Horsepower Shoot-out Day! Sort out what you want and your budget - you WILL spend more! There are plenty of others if you look in the right places!