Gixer1460

May not be of much benefit there due to lack of air movement! Better places are clutch chest / cover and cam cover / chain tunnel. Any blow-by (and those pistons look plenty prone) needs venting - bigger bore the better.

The real problem with stroking a bike engine is unlike auto engines where conrod alternatives are viable option to allow just resize the BE & regrinding the BE offset, with bikes the variations are small and often don't compliment the small ends so you have to either find a shop capable and competent to either use stick, TIG welding or spray metal build up, remachine an offset pin and then grind back to stock journal size - quite expensive or pony up for a new billet crank - very expensive. I'd guess the former to be at least the cost of a bore and piston job, possibly 50% more whilst the latter (in my case) was 3x the cost of bore and pistons (which was done bigger as well LOL!) Psssst - turbo's give TORQUE and lots of power - makes a really good street bike LOL!

Why do you need such a huge cooler? Even a race bike would be pushed to need one that big - they are called air cooled for a reason!

Stroked motors generally make better torque which is better for a street bike but that's not 'trendy' or 'on point' with those that like revs as your example would probably redline at about 8500 - 9000! With the extra stroke I think the thin sleeves may become a weak point. My 1460 took a bit more than just case boring and some sleeves!

Why stroke a baby one - bore it to 85mm and add a 5mm stroke - proppa!

Really not worth it until you are seeing over 250hp - makes more sense spending the money on a proper full engine balance job IMO!

Not saying don't do it, but +30cc's makes two tenths of fuck all difference compared to a 1216 kit but the bores will be more flexible and with a 1216 kit you do have the option of another overbore if it all goes tits up?

Eh? I see no fizzy ?

But for us - are they the 36mm bore (40mm OD) GSXR1100 from J - L models or 40mm bore from M/N models - as there seems to be confusion what is measured for description!

We still haven't established what carbs you have - early GSXR's had 34mm, most had 36mm inc Blandits, some 750's had 38mm and the latter 1100's had 40mm - all bore sizes. That advert is confusing as a single rubber seems to fit multiple size carbs! Also its not just the diameter that is an issue, the mounting angles should be correct for an easy fit! Yes OEM are expensive but they are designed to fit correctly!

ALL carbs are measured internal bore size!

Potentially different advance curves and rev limits - but unlikely to be massively different!

The only ones that will natively fit 40mm CV carbs are from GSXR 1100 M or N (1991 and 1992) The largest 750 rubbers were 38mm which sometimes can be stretched but it's painful to do!

The B8EA's are not suppressed so likely to cause crackles on nearby transistor radio's or other types of receiving equipment inc mobiles possibly . . . . . and because of this Suzuki changed to BR8EA's but as you've found out both will work ie. spark!

Understood that - it's just you described them as Viton - when they aren't! Others could read this and assume they were getting Viton (for a particular purpose) only for these Nitrile ones to fail / leak with serious consequences!

And they are a barsteward to get right

Why not just pull carb vac hose off, add another hose and suck on it ! Once carbs full, refit original and ride?

Nitrile O rings are NOT Viton O rings - totally different materials with the latter usually more expensive ( like £3.50 odd for a couple of 1mm x 3mm bore types !)

Pretty good diagnosis i'd say! I can't think of other alternatives?

Read it again - there are far more experienced modders on here with lots of threads regarding carb modification / air filter issues and with your own self proclaimed limited experience, my statement is justified - prove me wrong! When you do your modification - nothing wrong with it BTW - but what will you do when it won't rev over 5000 rpm?

If you can't make it run successfully as stock - what chance have you got modifying it? Honestly Suzuki San knows a lot more about airflow and carburetion than the majority of people on here - everything is done for a reason and modifications will have consequences!

Query - Have you checked chain run with that box section - original was tube with gap under! Looks like it conflicts to me?

Talking like that won't make friends round here abouts! We choose to do it because we can, whether its practical or sensible is immaterial !

As its been some years since looking at this, I had to download the Curvemaker software, play with it and it doesn't do what I thought it did. You can create your own advance curve but DYNA only allow you a degree of retard per mapped point which isn't ideal and switching from one 'advance' curve to 'retard' curve is via manual switch or pressure switch. As I said not sophisticated , as if you need greater retard than the one degree you seemingly have to compromise the 'advance' curve. Newer systems, either 2D with compensations or 3D mappable are soooooo much easier to use / work better! Apologies if I caused confusion!

Can be achieved with the 2000i - just not very sophisticated or with great resolution LOL!