eramljak

Thanks @Gixer1460!

Thanks for the discussion! I sort of drifted away from the original question, so it's all good from my perspective! I received my shipment of seals yesterday, so now I need to figure out how quickly I can get this done. It has been some time since I overhauled a cylinder head, and I'm really looking to do "just enough" to get this done. Should I do anything with the valve seats? clean them with any kind of abrasive? or is it a better idea to find someone to machine the surfaces? or just some solvent and elbow grease? I'm not looking to add any power at this time, so I would like to leave well enough alone, but I imagine that there will be some build up around the valves and seats. I don't want to do any damage when cleaning this up. Thanks!

OK, that makes sense. the seat wears out and the valve is able to move further which reduces the clearance between the shim and the cam lobe.

@DezzaThanks for the tip about the sale. I just bought a full set and shipped to Canada for much less than any other option out there. So, I have the 1991 engine which uses the valve shims, rather than tappets and screws. In your experience, do you end up going bigger or smaller on the shim thickness? Do things get tighter or looser?

Thanks for the great and quick answers! Those are good tips regarding the intake side of the head. I will check out the valve guide wear. And I am looking into Robinsons now. they don't have a listing for 1991 GSX-R1100, but they do have 1990. similar enough to use the same seals?

Howdy Folks! I have an old (skool) GSX-R1100 engine, 1991. She is burning oil, most noticeable on start up. I've checked for leaks and found none. I've not done a compression or leak down test, so it could be rings, but it seems most likely to be the valve stem seals. when I look into the intake ports, I can see some ( not all ) of the valves and intake with oil marks and build up. I'm going to replace the valve stem seals for sure. My question is : should I expect to replace the valves too? what other items should I replace while I have the head off? I'm not sure I can spend much money to get into serious head work, like redoing the valve seats. I will be doing the work myself and the extent of it might be a port and polish. Due to the age of the motor; what items should I be on the lookout to replace? Thanks!

My clutch parts finally arrived from The Netherlands. I live in Canada, so it's a pretty big deal. I had to wait over 3 weeks! Everything is back together and pulling strong, I just wanted to post some pics of worn out vs new. The clutch action does feel much smoother and I do feel safer knowing that my clutch is less likely to break. I'm using a cable operated clutch actuator (screw assembly) from GSX600F. Look how close I was to dying!!! This pivot point should not move at all, but I have about 2mm of play Fresh and clean. This is mounted on top of 2 x 1mm thick washers to bring the actuator closer to the clutch push rod, so that I have better engagement. Next up, the spring seat. this was actually in pretty good shape, but was showing some wear and I thought "what the hell, it's only money!" The springs ride on the outside edge of this seat. I imagine that there is a very small amount of movement as the springs are compressed. the new one has the spots on it / is the one higher up in the picture. both of them measured at 1.7mm, so I'm sure it would have been fine to not replace it. Springs; these were the most worn parts in the kit. There was extreme wear on the inside diameter of the springs, with more wear on one spring than the other. The inside is the part seated against the big 50mm nut holding the pressure at 100Nm The outside edges did show some wear. old spring is higher in the picture, new spring is lower. old springs: Old springs measured at : 3mm and 3.2mm the new springs were 3.34mm. The spec requires a minimum of 3.1mm spring height. All the same, I did replace both springs with new ones. And adding everything up tells a big story: how thick is a seat and two springs after a harsh 30 year service run? 5.94mm, seems pretty good, but what about new? 6.18mm! Only 0.24mm difference. That is the difference between working properly and losing power to the wheel at 4500RPM. Incredible! Another part seeing wear is the first installed steel plate. this comes up against the "wave washer" AKA the anti shudder spring. The spring itself is in good health, but it managed to wear a good gouge into the steel plate:

Hi, does the starter turn? if it does and it's not starting, you should check for spark and check the spark plug connections. also check fuel and compression on all cylinders would be a good start. if it's not turning, check the basics: solid connections and that your fuses are in good shape.

Welcome to OSS! Remember to post the before pictures too. What parts do you have already?

I picked up 4 sets of these recently, they seem like good quality, though they are not genuine parts. https://www.Eblag.ca/itm/5mm-Large-Round-Carb-Main-Jets-For-Mikuni-Carburetor-125-130-135-140-145/113153473091?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 I used them in my BSR36SS carbs

I recommend them. I've used the HiFloFiltro filters on a few of my GSX models. I had some troubles with leaking around the seal. It wasn't anything critical, but it did worry me because I thought the cooler lines were leaking. On new installs, I have been removing the seal and cleaning the filter surface and the seal, then applying Ultra Black gasket maker and reinstalling the seal. I'm sure it's "a bit much", but I didn't have any leaking after that. To be clear: I did not apply gasket material to the engine block side of the seal, just on the filter itself

I have a Delkevic shorty exhaust can, it's a carbon fiber finish, rather than stainless. It's 2" straight through! So no restriction at all. It has a real nice sound for when you need to be heard from across the city, this thing does a great job of amplifying the exhaust sound. Quality seems to be good enough.