Gixer1460

Depends on what GT25 you select ! Personally I think a GT2560R would do it but not ideally suited - I'd prefer a GT2859R or 60R unless you want to run lots of boost (and therefore heat!) all the time? Std. plastic topped CV36's will hold boost for a while but will eventually let go - swopping 'down' to tin topped 34mm CV's is usually bombproof. Again its down to what boost you are running but usually a smallish EFI pump and good regulator is required with a fuel return to the tank - must work at 2psi ie. off boost upto 15-16psi @ 1bar or more? Again, personally - an EFI system saves on engineering over a lot of these issues and releases more usable power through more accurate control of fuelling and timing!

Apologies - Tired!

Jason - i'd change your sig M8 - its 1186 not 1216!

That's the beauty of copper - its soft enough to tolerate a degree of block / head imperfection - as long as its annealed first!

Lambda sensor placement is critical when using a dump pipe! When flow is low it will be fooled by atmospheric air so indicating lean condition. I've got my ecu sensor at the collector pre turbo - against all the advise mind you but if the back pressure kills it after a few '000's miles its not the end of the world to replace with a new one + its more accurate as direct from cylinders not with added turbo oil ! ! !

Those mounts / rubbers are found on the GSXR type motors - never seen them removed from the cases before!

You can't clamp as tight with stock 'springy studs and nuts - Go and raid the stores Clive, you know APE makes sense! And copper don't leak if its done right....... 2 bar + and no leaks here.

I knew you wouldn't be able to leave it alone! I was working on a EFI intake with injectors mounted in it so I could use a Throttle body in place of the carb - new tech meets old tech meets vintage!

Honestly 40's are too big for the 1100M / N and they are a bitch to set up. If you want to keep the torque monster feel of the GSX - go with 36mm CV's - 36mm RS flaties even better!

I think you've got your KG's confused with your lb's - no way is a Buell 880lbs! And at 440lbs its a bit lighter than a std GSXR - not a lot but you've added 10-15 kgs of turbo stuff!

So?........................which bit gave up its life in pursuit of sub 10 seconds......valve, head gasket or piston?

Its a brave (or foolish) man that rides a 200+hp turbo bike with a single front brake - which are you?

Thank you sir! - I aim to please!

Whatever they are - i'd use Viton types to be fuel safe. Doesn't seem to be a Suzuki spare part but Allens List Mikuni O rings if you know the size and thickness?

Even better Robinsons list them.......http://www.robinsonsfoundry.co.uk/content/pages/shop/parts/Suzuki/GS/GS750/B-DB 1977/gs750boilpump.htm £61 and change - but they need to order so don't hold your breath! But OSS still gets discount - I believe 10%? But of course you also need the corresponding clutch drive gear.......http://www.robinsonsfoundry.co.uk/content/pages/shop/parts/Suzuki/GS/GS750/B-DB 1977/gs750bclutch.htm Which will be another £73 and change and a wait. So about £120 all in new - I think i'd be scouring Eblag!

Hate to say this but WON soli's are the daddies especially if you want pulse control.

If its stock then the stock carb settings are what it needs but if you want to mod it, then particularly with an exhaust - do not think cheap cos you'll probably spend money to achieve stock power.......or less! Check the plates on race bike exhausts - they don't use them as a fashion statement!

Sorry didn't realise the aftermarket sources had dried up - I think it was APE that produced them and everyone else packed them under their own label. They aren't a complicated gear and always in demand so your M8 may have a niche market if he can produce them around the $100 point !

The factory 'claimed' 145hp @ 10,000 rpm - usually at the crank - should translate to about 130 - 135bhp at wheel! I believe some of the european markets had restricted outputs - France, I think is 100bhp @ wheel so would tie in to what the dyno sheet says?

Suzuki never used forged pistons till the watercooled engines arrived so that info is suspect - sorry, and not sure about the GSX750 oil pump gears as that was a plain bearing crank and used a different pump / relief valve to get the = 60psi pressures required. The GS gears everyone wants - just get new from Schnitz! 235hp from a stockish GSX and a Rajay - must have been boosting its tits off ! ! !

On a normal ignition bike - nothing! On something with a bit of sophistication and aftermarket ECU and a cam trigger you can have sequential fueling and ignition sparking. The COP's do seem to be able to fire quite rich through to quite lean mixtures without fouling or burning plugs up. With the COP diagram above - COPs in series as shown will give correct resistance but at half the voltage! I'd parallel wire the COP's and add a 5 or 6 ohm 10w resistor in parallel also = corrected resistance and full volts. That'll give 2.8- 3.2 ohm total load on the ignition per side (using 1.8ohm COP's for example)

The original 1052 sumps were flat and had oil connections to the lower side - obviously you'll need the correct pick-up and cooler hoses but that's sort of the only option?

I'd be tempted to use something like a Ford Monoblock 4 post coil - cheaper than Dyna's, dead reliable and perfect for wasted spark! Stick COP's can be used with a Dyna / Dyna 2000 as long as you add a resistor to up the total resistance to 3.0 ohms per stick which is happy with dyna and OEM CDI's

Please don't use EBC's with a turbo - dunno what it is but they plain don't work - they slip and burn up too easy! I've had Barnett Kevlars in my 1186 for ages and they worked great when NA but are quite grabby with the turbo. I've got a lock-up fitted so can use std / soft springs which was good when racing and handled the power (210hp) fine. Used OEM fibres and steels on some stupidly powerful engines and can take abuse with plain lock-ups and slider clutch set-ups!

Eggsackerly