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  1. Oh, I understand now: the brass washer thingy is purely cosmetic and is there solely to mask the damaged paintwork .
  2. Does the paint go all the way up to the edge of the hole in the tank or is there a ring of bare metal? In my experience you need a ring of bare metal to seal on for these sort of filler caps. I have recently had problems with hylomar for the same application (Shaw filler) so maybe Hylo is different to what it used to be. In the end I have used a gasket cut out of 'normal' 0.8mm thick gasket material with 3-bond instead of Hylo and 3-bond on the srcew threads too. I try and avoid using 3 bond as it's so difficult to remove but I haven't had any leaks since. Do you have a threaded backing ring in the tank? This also helps.
  3. An air rifle target? Good shooting!
  4. I think some of the earlier r6s have the same bottom mount design as do the slabbies so my guess is you've accidentally bought a shock from the wrong model .
  5. I am wondering why it didn't get sucked into the engine on large throttle openings.
  6. It doesn't seem that light to me, although I haven't got one from another oil cooled bike loose for comparison. The 1100 slabby covers are I think unique due to the lack of the removable breather thingy on top so are lower than other covers.
  7. I have some unusual corrosion on the inside of my 1100 slabside cam cover. I was wondering if these are made from a magnesium alloy. Usually if this is the case it has it stamped on the part, unless the part is for a bona fide race bike so this is why I am asking. Thanks for any comments in advance .
  8. A table of these measurements for as many radial-braked donor bikes as possible would be really useful as then it could be seen which wheel, brake, fork combos would or would not work. I have yet to see any data presented in such a way though .
  9. Sometimes they help with period detail, e.g. Harris and Spondon frame stickers, unobtainable wheel decals e.g. Campagnolo, Tecnomagnesio. If you can get a good picture and the dimensions from an old one, having really good quality replica period stickers made is not expensive. There is no need to buy two for 25 quid off some spiv on eb@y.
  10. If you phoned Harris and asked, they used to send you a load of those frame stickers for zilch. Now Harris don't even make their own alloy tanks. How times change.
  11. It's not difficult to find original switches nor to restore them. Many switches are also used on multiple Suzuki models, especially the l/h ones. One potential problem is if your bike is a UK model, it will have a three-stage r/h light switch: off, park, and on. On older Suzukis these use 2 seperate circuits whereas some newer bikes, even if they still have a 'parking light' function (now they don't) use a slightly different wiring design with a common switched positive feed. This can be incorporated into an older system like a slabby though with a bit of thought and a multi-meter.
  12. I am curious to know why the rule has been changed. What was the previous minimum disc size and why has it been increased? Why 250mm and not some other size? This obviously presents a problem beyond simply bolting on a bigger disc because even if these are available the caliper carrier and perhaps even the torque arm if used will have to be modified or changed too. So there needs to be a really good reason for the rule change.
  13. They're stock - 47.5 according to the book. The cheapest and easiest key to flat-spot-free smooth running when the airbox is junked is to use air-corrector jets as developed decades ago by Ledar. I thought Grumpy 1260 were going to remanufacture these again. What carbs do you have? Different GSX1100s had variations on (mainly) BS34s with the last 'EFE' models having BS36s.
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