Dezza

I do indeed have a set of rubbers for 1100 slabby/powerscreen. Part numbers: 13110, 13120, 13130, 13140 all with the suffix 06B0. All in good condition with no cracks. They are a bit hard though and don't have any o'rings but still very useable. I also have a set of the correct 50mm clips for these rubbers, all replated in bright zinc with clear passivate. I don't need the rubbers or clips so if you want them @busa1300then please PM me .

OK, I'll check the part numbers on the bits I have then report back

I know that slabby clips (and powerscreen) for the rubbers that accept their BST34s have 50 (mm) stamped on and those for the B12 52, as in your pic but don't know for sure what size the clips for the rubbers for the 750l,m are. I'm guessing 54 but if anyone knows for sure this will be useful info, as the OEM carb rubber clips are far superior to jubilee clips. This is a bit of a niche subject within a niche subject, different sized OEM carb rubber clips for oil cooled bikes but what's not to like .

1100 slabbies have BST34 'tintop' carbs as stock as do 1100 powerscreens so this expands your search as the rubbers are the same. OEM Suzuki clips in my opinion are always best because if the correct rubber/clip combination is used it's impossible to overtighten the clip and damage the rubber. I may have a spare set of rubbers and (newly replated) clips but have no idea how much post will cost I'll be unlikely to ever need them and replated the clips for a bit of gold passivating experimentation (which worked well). If you're interested in the bits then please PM.

I agree. Unless it's going in something like a Spondon or Harris frame there will likely be some 'play' as such in the engine mounts. I'd try loosening all the mounts to see if the engine can be wiggled back into the same place so the cooler fittings sit in the same place as before.

I think @Blubbermay mean a girl's barber. I'm confused: why would anyone rather work on an Audi TT than an RGV 250 .

I use a GSXR 1000 lever and perch, and a 750 teapot cable and cover. Everything else is B12. When using this cable clutch conversion the B12 pushrod can be retained by simply replacing the adjuster screw in the cover with a slightly longer item. The 750 teapot cable has a bend where it goes into the threaded adjuster on the perch so is good for clip-ons; for flat bars, use a 600 Blandit cable, which it straight where it goes into the adjuster Slinky Glide cables from Wemoto are really good and much cheaper than OE but sometimes Robinsons has the right genuine cable at a sensible price when on offer.

My Spondon has a B12 engine in it with a cable conversion (bits from 750 teapot) and the clutch is 125 light. Cheaper, simpler and less total mass than hydraulic

i just don't get the idiotic prices of some items from Japan. And then they add a stratospheric postage price too. Someone needs to parachute down from cloud-cuckoo land.

Litetek do the seals and new screws. They also have a very useful guide that includes removing the pesky butterfly screws. https://litetek.co/Guide_MikuniBDST_Rebuild.html#

Plenty of supermoto rear wheels and hubs to choose from secondhand, some will even be laced with a 4.5" rim if you have an early 750. Problem is a suitable front hub with a twin disc fitment at a non-stratospheric price. Older Z1000, 750 Tenere and other large 'dirt' bikes have them, early GS750,1000, TZ 250, 350 too.

If you're breaking it, then first bags on the front tank mount

Looks like someone packed that bearing with wet sand and road salt instead of grease