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Dezza

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About Dezza

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    Sledge Hammer

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    Nottingham

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  1. Originally it would have been anodised, which will cost a fortune to have done again. To get the original look, buy several grades of scotchbrite, several tins of GT85, and a whole load of elbow grease
  2. I remember a 750 slabby build thread a couple of years back that included a slabby alternator refurbishment. I can't remember who it was but the OSS member lived in Spain and did much of his (high quality and knowledgable) work outside in his back yard A series of searches may bring it up.
  3. Apparently, the rubbers from oil cooled machines with BST carbs as stock go on a GS1000 head to enable the mounting of bigger carbs. These rubbers vary in size depending on which model they came from. According to the RS manual supplied with RS carbs, RS 34.36 and 38s all have an external stub diameter of 42mm, not 40mm, presumably because they all use the same castings. As far as I know, the only oIl cooled rubbers with an internal diameter of 42mm are those from the GSXR750 l or m (1990, 1991). Good luck trying to source a set for a reasonable price though. An alternative is the rubbers from a bike with BST 36s as stock, e.g. Blandit 12, GSXR 750 j,k. GSXR rubbers bring the carbs 5mm closer to the head than Blandit rubbers so keep this in mind for clearances. These rubbers have an id of ~40mm, but they can be enlarged by sanding. What about Blandit 12 rubbers with a later set of BSTs or some 29/33 mm smoothbores?
  4. Dezza

    Gs1150 cams

    Someone will be along in a minute bollocking you for not reading the rules, but in the context of your u/n your first post is very apt
  5. Maybe he has to find an excuse for the use of condoms ever since the missus found some hidden in the shed Seriously though, if it's to prevent damage to the new seals when fitting them over the end of the fork stanction a bit of oil and care are all that is needed, or cling film. The OP suggested that the forks were already dismantled so the use of an impact driver would be of little use. Next time though, loosen the top nuts of the forks whilst still in the yokes and then remove. Position the forks so you can get the impact gun on the allen bolt whilst the fork spring is being compressed. This is the easiest way to remove the bottom bolts. Don't use an impact gun to tighten the bolt. Use the method I described above. An alternative to a box spanner is a wheel spindle tool, the ones that are basically a very large Allen key (19mm in this case, according to Dorkburger). You can then use a torque wrench on the allen bolt easily. A basic socket set has the required extensions to do this: I use an old Kamasa set 1/2" drive and join the long and the short extensions together and this is long enough to hold the damper rod in the same way as an expensive Suzuki service tool Oh, and as Fab says, use the old seals on top of the new seals and a bit of pipe to fit the new seals.
  6. If you compress the fork fully and peer in you will see the damper rod has a 12 pointed recessed top to it, like an inverted socket. If you find the correct size hexagonal box spanner you can get one end in the damper rod then hold the other end of the box spanner with a normal socket attached to a couple of extensions and a t-bar. The allen screw can then be undone as is normal as the damper rod can be prevented from turning by holding the t-bar still. That's how I do it anyway and it always works Don't use a sharpened stick, broom handle etc. as it just gets little bits of wood inside the forks that are difficult to get out.
  7. He has RS36s so there isn't a vac connector to leave blank to cause such problems. I had the same on my EFE engined bike and it was a faulty CDI unit. The 'runs on 3, so ignition must be OK as each coil is connected to either 1-4 or 2-3' is often a Red Herring. Has the bike been left for any length of time with fuel in the tank and carbs or is the tank rusty inside? If not I'd check out all the ignition connections and components first before stripping the carbs.
  8. Dezza

    1100E project

    Looks in great shape My guess is that RS40s will be too big, even for a heavily breathed on road bike. The stock carbs are easy to work on and to re-furbish unless any of the pilot air screws have siezed. If so, they can be next to impossible to get out
  9. Removing the engine from a Magnum 2 is much easier than on a bike with a cradle frame: support the engine well all round, remove the engine mounts, and then lift the frame off of the engine in a slightly forward rotational manner. It's easier if you remove the wheels first (and everything else for that matter) and it's obviously a 2 person job
  10. I have just obtained a set of BST38s from a GSXR 750L (1990; Uk market???). I am a little surprised that they do not accept a push-pull throttle and only take the opener cable. This had me wondering, so to enable a further update on the carb compatability article (see above), I would like to collate some further info. What I would like to know is which OEM carbs for specific OSS oil cooled bikes had a push-pull or not. Also, I would like to know if there was any variation between markets for the 'same' model. The reason I ask is that I think push-pull became the norm around 1991-92 to standardise machines meant for different markets but some bikes had them prior to this. So presumably, all Blandits have push-pull. This information will be useful for carb interchangability between models because it will be clear if a new throttle cable housing/right switch unit is needed or not. I will start: GSXR 1100 slabside: 1986-1988, UK market, opener cable only. GSXR 750L slingshot: 1990, UK market, opener only. Blandit 1200 Mk 1 and MK2, UK market, push-pull
  11. Which carb rubbers are you using? If you use 750 l or m rubbers these bring the carbs 5mm closer to the head than Blandit 12 rubbers (which would need sanding out to mount RS 36s). If space is tight for the filters, a good way forward is to use bellmouths with 2 X Ramair foam filters, the ones with 2 holes.
  12. Dezza

    Dashboard

    Remove cable inner, clean, then re-lube using grease not oil. Leave the top 10cm grease free or it will work its way up into the clock and bugger it up, as ST says above (Motorcycle Mechanics Fortnightly, 1980 or thereabouts....).
  13. If it's been left with fuel in the tank and carbs for 18 years it may just about start with new fuel, but there would have to be major devine intervention in order for it to run OK.
  14. All I know is those seals cost 6 quid each, which is just ridiculous. Has anyone found a generic alternative to the OEM seals?
  15. Dezza

    B6 Speedo sensor

    Dunno. Try both. I looked it up and the cost for a new one is now £120, and I am not kidding They were used earlier than I thought: e.g. the GSXR1000K1 used one and they sold by the boat load so there should be a few knocking about.
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