Dezza

Does it have a modded Blunderace swingarm?

According to @Jaydee's measurements, the forks I have are from a 750.

i'm thinking of a crossflow main cooler for my next project. Hose fittings on the side, with one at top and the other at bottom with neater in-built threaded mounts.

I have top feed on main cooler, and a head cooler. The oil capacity of the bike is now about 3/4 litre higher than with a single main cooler with bottom feed. When the oil is drained the main cooler stays full of oil so it needs to be removed and emptied manually to prevent the old oil in the cooler from contaminating the new oil. This isn't a problem; it's a quirk of modifying the bike.

What are the differences between 750 j,k and 1100 k slingshot forks? I guess the 1100 forks are longer seeing as the clip ons go above the top yoke but how do they compare? I have a set that are 725mm long (top of stanction to centre of spindle) but still don't know if they're 750 or 1100. Thanks in advance.

You can also find bona fide Earls, Goodridge, Sppedflow, Aeroquip fittings secondhand on eb@y for a fraction of their retail price. These are obviously all re-useable and ultra-high quality. Torques stuff is good value for money though and much better than the cheap cack seen at most autojumbles.

Slabby is same as efe: yellow/black if I remember correctly

First examine the wiring to the coils. The tacho feed tees into the wire that goes from the CDI unit to the coils. If the T is broken/corroded then the tach won't work properly.

Page down a bit and you'll find this. I'd put money on Mag 2 and Mag 4 using the same bearings.

Yep, use the spring for the 1200 Blandit. It's longer than others (NLA) and can be used on 1100 slabbies, slingshots and powerscreens.

RS's are basically bolt on and away you go. Just a little bit of faffing about required with pilot screws. They work well on a B12 with a well designed exhaust. BST 38s are also apparently a good upgrade but I have not done this so have no direct experience. I do have a set and they are physically a pretty huge carb. They may cause clearance issues on a 7/11 as they're very tall and being CVs are going to be a whole lot more hassle to set up than RSs. And in good condition they're rare are unicorn shit, and require the corresponding carb rubbers, which 2nd hand are even rarer and as new items (for GSXR1100s with BST40s) cost a fortune.

Snowing! In Scotland, in January!

A blast with a blowtorch often works wonders on sparkplugs.

The wiring diagrams in the genuine Suzuki manuals are about as good as it gets. These manuals are freely available as pdfs online. Alternatively I can email you a copy. What market bikes are we talking about here? I ask as the looms vary according to market but the diagrams are all provided in the Suzuki manual. e.g. I think the parking light switch wiring differs between UK and USA models. From experience it shouldn't be too difficult using an OEM slabby loom for a 7/12. It will make things a lot easier if you were to source an 1100 slabby cdi unit and ignition trigger wheel and pick-up because then you won't have to modify the loom very much if at all. The slabby CDI won't work with the b12 pick-up and the B12 CDI takes completely different connectors to the slabby. An 1100 slabby ignition works well with a b12 engine. I don't know about a 750 ignition but I guess the timing may differ (the 1100 is a little advanced low down compared to the B12 and perks the engine up a bit). When using looms from an unknown source I find it helps to first remove all the tape and to clean the glue off the wires with white spirit, then shove the lot in a suitable bag and into the washing machine. You can then inspect the loom and see what connectors and wires need to be replaced. Japanese connector blocks, wire and crimpers are not expensive and freely available. Get all the electrics working before re-wrapping the loom with the correct loom tape, not insulation tape (hold it together in the mean time by small cable ties).

Try some fresh fuel and check if the choke mechanism is working correctly. Remove plugs and give them a blast with a blowlamp, replace when still as hot as you can manage, and then try again.