Gixer1460

Not surprising as plenty of ads state ' carbs cleaned' when the bike was only ever fitted with Throttle bodies! Some people know jack about their own bike!

The OP did that as said in their first post !

The core centreline needs to be no lower than static oil level or just below. Any much lower and oil can full the core / bearings when engine off and leak into the turbine / compressor leading to a smokey start-up. Not sure on Emtes availability anymore - I got mine from NLR in the States many years ago, some peeps on here have made their own using mini bike oil pumps - do a search!

Mounted high is foolproof and will always work. Lower mounting must be pump scavenged - some like electric, me I used mechanical Emtes type as if the engine is running it will be pumping and 'unlikely' to fail but more involved to install.

Yes - interchangeable providing it works that is!

Try the same jets - yes carbs are different, but they still essentially work the same way - btw 155's sound big if used in 34mm carbs but if the dyno says 'yes' who am I to comment

You won't know till you get in there for a look see - usually an ultrasonic bath does them / any carb a world of good!

LOL's - what do you think!

Ok so it's a wide cooler - 50% wider and looking at the ports i'm guessing inlet @ bottom and outlet @ top? So although I counted 13, it's probably 14 allowing 7 x 350 + 7 x 350 = 4.90m of finnage. A 260mm x 19 = 4.94m of finnage so near enough 2/10th of FA difference LOL! But the end 'tanks' seem about twice the depth of a normal cooler, so effective matrix may be smaller than quoted? I'd also suggest the connection tank is divided internally so the oil flows in a U pattern so not a double pass, just a single with a 180 deg. turn in the middle. Other than the connection benefits for your application, I can't see any advantages and some disadvantages if the area is actually less, but your bike, your choice

It will usually have a ground connection via the loom - later GSXR's et al have plastic cases within rubber mounts so not usually in their cases - a metal case ...... hmmmm - it certainly won't hurt!

It can't work any better than a 13 row cooler - it's the same physical 'real estate' so can't cool any better than that. In fact it'll probably hold more heat in its envelope and so cool slightly worse than a normal 13! And personally IMO a 13 has no place cooling a turbot in any situation - a 260 x 19 used to get hot enough for me! For the same face area and increased cooling either double core it for a 75% boost in cooling or add water !

Yes and No LOL! Depends if the pick-ups have a single or dual pick-up arrangement. If dual, the wires can be swapped over like the coils, before the 'CDI' - the problem should swap coils . . . . . . . subject to the wiring checking out ok! But pick-ups rarely are a problem . . . . . 'CDIs' on the other hand - based on age - quite often are suspect / fail and need replacement!

Are you worried some numpty is gonna ask if its a Spondon / Bakker / Moto Martin?

Yeah - definitely a high resistance connector! They can get hot enough to melt the connector and short out the alternator phases!

I'll bet money where its coming from . . . . . . . . the 'mickey mouse' oil seals around the plug wells! Oil gets in there and drains out through the water drains! They are soooooo easy to displace when putting the cover on and the shit gets everywhere like you've dumped a litre all over it!

Just an observation - how many long drag arms are braced and they put a damn sight more power into one side of the arm that should induce twist. Keeping a drag arm straight and a tyre square to the road is essential - but no bracing LOL!

Did you check the comp. pressure with throttle wide open? 80 odd psi is really low!

Clearly weatherproof . . . . . . . . . . . NOT!

Never heard that one before? In the 'rest' position the ign. is most retarded so plug firing is close to TDC so kickback should be reduced. It's when the mechanism malfunctions and you try to start with the pick up advanced that causes the kickback ie. too much cylinder pressure to get over TDC.

I was going to add a picture with my others but realised it had a Dyna rotor on - LOL would have saved some head scratching!

Cars have an easier time a) they generally don't use roller bearings, b) gearboxes are seperated, c) their oil pumps produce copious pressure and flow. Whilst a BB turbo doesn't need much pressure it does require flow through its bearings to take heat away from the bearing cages which tend to be plastic and deform if overheated. In this regard the GSX / GS engines usually have good flow / poor pressure ! I'd concentrate on improving oil pressure to the head with its plain bearings and just feed the turbo what is available.

But also the con rod bolt size dropped from 3/8 to 5/16 - on the face of it a 'weaker' bolt!

It can be done but if the bike is used sporadically then the oil / crankcase 'traps' moisture from the air in the cases, which will through use become steam, which is carried to the catch can where it condenses and will drain back into the cases for the process to be repeated ad infinitum! Easier to catch it and discard it !

Maybe ok but mostly restrictors apply to oil cooled motors where the oil pressure is waaaaay to high! With a GSX / GS you have the opposite problem - not enough OP! As it has roller / open bearings elsewhere, personally I wouldn't bother with a restrictor - 20psi is hardly going to be an issue.

That usually causes a double fast flash rate as circuit resistance is halved! I think a 'buzzy' flasher may be caused by under voltage - i'd check supply volts?