Gixer1460

It was indeed. There is one pish poor picture in an early edition of a Joe Haile Turbo Bike magazine. Not a bad carb but largely unheard of in the 'West' LOL! If you are tight for space - a Weber DCOE 40 would fuel it perfectly and it's quite shallow like the PHH ?

On mine with an 1186 motor I had, one in oil filler, one centre of clutch cover, one on std cam cover breather and additional one on cam cover direct into the valve chest, that and the clutch cover were dash 10 hose, others dash 8 pipe.

Dunno where it is on an EFE as I've never had one but would suspect under the seat near the battery but if all lights gone that may have been removed also? As regards working - Indicators first - Ign live 12v to one pin of 2 pin flasher relay, other pin wire to indicator direction switch input. This splits the volts to either left or right. Pair up one wire from each light on each side including the dash repeater (if fitted) and wire to each side of the above switch with other side of indicator bulbs wired to earth . chassis ground. Lights - don't need a relay if it is a single headlamp - it will if dual lights or wired that dip and main are on when main selected. Simple circuit - - Wire from fusebox (live with ign.) to lights switch to sidelight circuit, output to front / back sidelights, other side of bulb to ground. Main lights - Wire from fusebox (live with ign.) to lights switch to main light circuit, output to dip / main switch. Outputs to either dip side or main side of bulb, other unused bulb terminal is earth / ground line. Easier to follow on a wiring diagram than trying to explain in works and make it understandable!

Yes you will , larger and as many as you can manage - IMO, two 13mm ID pipes would be minimum

And no increased valve pocketing required. DRL300 - good little box!

One issue I can see is belt tooth to tooth contact over the tensioner. The untensioned side will flap about - its scary how much they do - didn't occur with the original Sims & Rohm due to the poly Vee belt used. Obviously a bit of wear and increased tension makes the situation worse - certainly a shorter belt and getting the tensioner at least 3x the difference?

One issue I can see is belt tooth to tooth contact over the tensioner. The untensioned side will flap about - its scary how much they do - didn't occur with the original Sims & Rohm due to the poly Vee belt used. Obviously a bit of wear and increased tension makes the situation worse - certainly a shorter belt and getting the tensioner at least 3x the difference?

Doesn't need to be special - I got mine for a modified car's auxiliaries drive from Medway Belts - http://www.dunlopbtl.com/downloads/Dunlop BTL - Timing Belts.pdf - last ones I bought were £6 or 7 each.

Yeah - it was looking a bit 'we are the Mods, we are the Mods' scooter like - needs more lights though! LOL!

Probably could - likely to cost more than buying another replacement! I did this with some gauge plastics - easier to buy whole cluster just for the clear plastic!

Apologies for the confusion / misdiagnosis!

Thank you for the clarification!

Alphasports site (good resource for part #'s although US) don't list a GS 400 but they do list a GN 400 through those years. The US often had similar models but renamed ie. the GS1150 for them was our GSX 1100 EFE! It could be worth a look? https://alpha-sports.com/suzuki_parts.htm

What bike, what ecu / cdi fitted? If std Suzuki, there is normally a dedicated tach output which is usually black/red or similar. Thinking outside the box - black/yellow is coil signal colour and tacho may actually be reading half speed so the fluttering could be the red line limiter - clutching at straws ! ! !

The GS ones could have the small nose taper like the early GSX - if so, then no swopsie. Could be other differences but never compared side by side.

Is that all ? - you were lucky! (in best Monty Python Yorkshireman accent)

Ah Ha - that's why I posted a diagram with them - i'm smart like that LOL!

If you like the 'comfy' riding position of a Blandit be prepared for potential back and wrist pain as it's a lot more head down, arse up - also a lot faster LOL!

Here's a loom diagram with twin lights and relays included.

There is a search function - please use it or at least read through the whole of the Forced Induction part of the site - pretty much every question asked has been answered MULTIPLE times! Principles are the same whatever motor it is getting bolted to - just details change!

The turbo is usually / always fed via engine oil pump - GSXR's have plenty of oil pressure to spare. Waste oil from the turbo is sucked out either by an electric scavenge pump as above or via a mechanical pump such as the Emtes type (what I use). The two have pro's and con's - the former can drain the turbo after engine is shut off but is an electrical load (which can be a bit much on some electrical systems - unlikely but possible) and a failed pump will result in LOADS of blue smoke. The emtes type are always on/pumping when engine is running but aren't a bolt on solution requiring some engineering / welding to fit and ideally should be combined with a sump below the turbo to capture any drainback.

Well they do have a Space programme and do build the hardware themselves unlike us who borrow someone else's rockets LOL!

How about using GSXR sleeves in your 1100 block - they are 78mm std and so will be the biggest in that block = 1260cc and more likely to be plentiful in Aus. ? - looks like you'll be boring something but aluminium is easier than steel LOL!

Oh for god's sake ! If the engine / carbs are healthy, it will run and idle / rev out without any cable connected - IGNORE the ancillaries - focus on the main things! Now you present another (fairly critical) issue fuel tap / fuel supply! I assume these carbs have a choke - are you using it? Again - get a manual ! ! ! ! ! ! !

Doh ! And I had a 1000 ! Probably overlooked as mine was 1327 LOL!