Gixer1460

Nowt wrong with vacuum fuel taps - i've had loads of bikes fitted with them and never had an issue, most even had an 'Off' position that I never used!

From the part # Google suggests this is from a GSX1100 ET (GS1100 for our US cousins) and not the GSX1100 EFE (GS1150) - hence why it doesn't fit right!

Stop being a lazy bastard, take the seat off, undo the tank rear bolt, pivot the tank up on its two front mounts and attach hose to tap so that its parallel to underside of the tank, then drop tank, bolt up, re install seat and marvel at how inconspicuous it now is! Brown, suede seat cover . . . . . . . . that's nice in a 70's retro stylee ! ! ! Right up Vizman's alley LOL!

Looking at that picture, the drive chain tension variations must be epic!

Not a Scooby Doo - i've never had CV carbs fall flat on their face like that - that is very flatslide like ! Will they rev out properly with a slowly opened throttle?

No can do - its a one piece forging small and big gear and very pricey - someone f**ked up putting the alternator in!

Oiling the filters using K&N oil may provide sufficient resistance to allow the tape removal? And here's a thing - needle files aren't called needle files just because they are shaped like needles ! ! !

It doesn't go straight from Pilots to mains - you have the whole needle period to go through! Dunno what the pictured needle is supposed to look like so won't comment on that LOL! Shaft seals could leak air but it's pretty rare - do the usual spray test to check?

According to Haynes . . . . . . and using BST36SS Mikuni CV carbs, MJ - 112.5, main Air Jet - 0.5mm, Needle - 5FZ89-3, Needle jet - Y-5, Pilot jet - 37.5, Pilot Air Jet - 1.40mm, Pilot Screw - 1 & 1/2 turns out, Starter Jet - 45 & Float Ht. - 14.6 +/-1mm.

Or change to a GSXR 1100 clutch slave - cheaper than a whole clutch! I can't imagine they will be different but difficult to tell. Just out of interest what clutch master cylinder are you using? It may not be moving enough fluid hence the reduced movement? I used a Yam. FZR master on my Kawazuki that worked good with a 1100L engine/clutch.

Yes they are all the same - frictions are 2.6mm thick and steels are 2mm thick. The slave cylinder movement sounds too small though - 2.2mm spread across the pack is less than 0.1mm between any plate? I know they only have to crack but i'd expect more? Just looked on Alphasports and Blandit clutch has fewer plates and fibres are mostly thinner - so the Blandit slave could be the issue?

They ain't stock rods - from any GSXR that i've seen! And marks on the crank are - I'd guess - from a failed rod, smashing its way out of the crankcases! I'd also suspect the crank hasn't been rebalanced to take account of those rods / bolts! Edit - i've obviously not seen enough 750's LOL! - they are too small to be real engines though!)

Rotor hasn't got a 'key' - its a taper fit. The starter clutch to rotor bolts OFTEN fail - they are High Tensile types, quite brittle and shear if there is any movement possible. Radical solution is tack weld the starter clutch to the rotor x3 or drill both for a dowel / roll pin + bolts with loctite! And you build an engine like that and you haven't got a puller - shame on you LOL! There are two sizes - if its a GS1100 crank, its a small taper, if GS1150, its a big taper.

Why do you keep harking on about the Keihin jets - we all know they are wrong so throw the fuckers in a bin and move on! With them removed, either of the two you've shown will fit and thanks to Ted M, the stock jet is shown above - it has the identification groove so buy 4 of those and fit them. You will now have a set of carbs that work and can be tuned - they may not be 'correct' but at only £7-8 each you ain't going to bankrupt yourself.

Unlikely - its the increased / turbulent airflow with K&N / S&B / Foam types that screws up carb function not the material. Some carbs like dual pods but some work ok with individuals - I had individual cone S&B's on my 750 ET but used a Ledar jet kit and they worked great.