Gixer1460

She's going to have to lean a LOT more than that . . . . . . . . & you'll still get covered in oil Oh the joys of tuning - but it is quicker to fuck up than when using carbs

Isn't the CR difference in the piston choice?

Horsepower doesn't kill rods! RPM and / or poor oil supply / pressure kills rods! @160-170hp stock rods fine if rpm controlled. If you spin it at 12+k rpm, use Carillos. Busa rods too long and not stronger than stock. Headwork, big valves, CR and cams will boost hi rpm HP, big bores better for torque @ lower rpm's (bigger lungs) so suited to road bikes.

These are available from turbo suppliers - cost pennies (relatively) !

I don't think anyone has ever reported vibrations from cam timing! 105/105 isn't hugely different from stock - so it's not that! Puzzled about the Dyna - I've never needed to adjust pick-ups just position plate - job done. 1 degree difference, nothing to worry about unless you are on the ragged edge of performance tune. Vibes usually are either mechanical or carbs via detonation. 40 degrees timing at WOT could be too much for CR or Fuel?

Ah the yoof of today! Maybe old but you never had to worry about no b/band or loosing signal or battery saving . . . . . . . . . biggest problem was best pages getting stuck together!

Or get the stash of porn mags down from the loft !

I think the 'operational capacity' of your starter 'has left the building' ! If it won't turn over with fresh battery and bridged terminals - its internal and needs disassembly!

Don't forget the M/N series came with 40mm CV's (for most of the world) . . . . . so they may have taken the 'easy' choice ?

All slide carbs tend to have accell pumps including all the RS range and FCR's - if they didn't they'd fall flat on their face when 'gettin' it on! Everyone 'wants' low down, mid range and top end - won't happen! Choose two adjacent and be happy because the only way to get all three is efi and a turbo !

A mate with a pretty well sorted 1216 Bindit - head worked, crank, rods hi comp pistons etc tried 41 FCR's and whilst they performed well and made stonking power it was made more at higher mid range to top! He just couldn't live with the 'flat feeling' lower speed running - swapped the 41's for RS36's and it made for 'nicer' everyday type riding and only lost 5-8hp where he never rides anyway! I have RS40's but my engine is 1460, so they balance out LOLs

Don't forget when checking injectors - pull the fuel pump fuse and don't run them too long with no fuel going through (they cool via fuel flow in use). Soon time to get noisy and smelly

Ha Ha Ha - anyone recommending a strobe on an oil cooled engine . . . . . . has never tried strobing an oil cooled engine! When you know - you know!

Is it movable? Only say that as the gap is 'usually' placed a way before TDC / Firing point to allow the calculations to be carried out and injection / timing offsets adjusted - normally 90 degrees is used. Nice wheel btw.

You've asked same Q in two different posts / threads!