Gixer1460

Oh dear - that'll get the Dyna haters out LOL!

Before delving deep into the loom - just try a direct wire from SG to the CDI block, that will either reinforce or dispel that area for diagnosis!

Based on its use, and potential for more routine removal i'd advise a smear of grease one side or the other on assembly - it aids removal without tearing!

Definitely worn out!

Not wishing to state the obvious, but the wheel axle isn't currently anywhere near the forks axle clamps - when repositioned its gonna look like a chopper LOL!

I wasn't thinking about gap to get it in - that should be sufficient, it was locking it to the fork to prevent it spinning, as original forks have a stop lug cast in for this purpose!

No reason not to do it, if that's what floats yer boat! Biggest hurdles you'll have is matching all the braking components (whichever type you choose - GSX or GSXR) to either forks or wheel and mudguard mounting. Oh and you probably won't have space / fixing for the speedo drive either!

I'm confused? What's the difference except your recommendation is twice as much work? If you skim first you reduce the liner flange recess depth, so liners will protrude - unless you machine the recess as well then you might have to machine the cases to accommodate the 'dropped' liners. Most liner flanges can take a 10 - 20 thou facing cut without drama so why not install and face cut in one operation? Or is this all related to block bottom? Will 1075 cases accept bigger OD 1135 liners without boring?

See Clive's post above A lock-up adds height over the clutch so the cover needs a spacer which then requires an extended rack piece to maintain clutch operation.

I get what the OP wants, it was the errant reference to the GSX engine I found weird! Just because it has a cable clutch operation doesn't mean 'its' extended rack would fit or work. If it was me, i'd use (and I did x2) a hydraulic clutch (for which lock-ups are available) - its not as if you have to be subtle when a turbo is involved! Making a one off, hardened and ground extended rack for a hybrid 750/1100/cable/lock-up will likely cost what the whole clutch is costing - just sayin'

Seriously? You weren't aware of probably the most used motor in drag racing used a lock up! This is the engine it was first used on. If you need an extended rack for a 750 it's likely to be DIY!

A BIG one and really it should go between the supercharger and the cylinder head as Eaton chargers are pretty inefficient, so will be taking already hot turbo boosted air and making it hotter!

Found this below from Bennett's who know a bit about 'faking stuff' for insurance fraud - quite informative but not definitive! So, using the above info the frame number looks correct ie. font / type face and 11 characters seems correct. The engine number though - hmmmmm! The 'A' is clearly wrong, likewise the '1', the '3' and the '9' - only the '5' is about right. This doesn't mean its wrong or nicked or a knock off - dealers had the ability to stamp virgin cases from spares which came without.

No - think about it . . . . if the small dot is neutral, the shifter pawl goes past this to the blank bit for 1st gear ie. nothing needs to happen in first. Then changing up you pass through neutral, get 2nd then 3rd. Changes after this to 4th and 5th have no electrical outputs as nothing is required so there are no dots / contacts. I would guess that in the std suzuki ignition, when it sees that it is in 2nd it applies a bit of retard (to quieten the engine for noise tests) then when 3rd is selected it knows 'full power' settings can be re-established. Trying to diagnose electrical wiring and set-ups is difficult when they are not in front of you - so I can't speculate on what or what not to do, or what happens when wire A is connected to wire B etc. Sorry!

The ET variants i've seen have 5No brass dots + another, which is for neutral (usually between two equally spaced 'normal dots') Blandits have a similar arrangement but only 3No pins - 1st / neutral / 2nd. - this is to activate retard for noise tests! Busa ones are again similar but have 6+1 dots (6 gears obvs) but is a three wire system - 5v in / Ground / and gear volts out. This allows the Busa ECU to different gear based shit that most mortals don't understand. Your one seems to be missing some dots / contacts - maybe why it switches in 4th? I was working on using something similar in my turbo GSXR but wired like a Busa one so it would talk happily to my AMS1000 to allow different boost ramps / targets for every gear - good idea for a road bike, me thought! Yours doesn't seem to have a lot of wires so i'd suggest using a multimeter to see what is connected to what - a) to get full understanding and b) how to change it . . . . if you ever want to ?