Gixer1460

I'll ask next time I see him but won't be for a few weeks as off on hols shortly - i'll get a picture if I can!

Massive design flaw on Harris's part. A M8 modified the arrangement on his before it saw any weight.

IMO i'd prefer the higher CR as it aid's off boost running and can tolerate 1 bar of boost - problem is boost is addictive and you push it a little bit more and it goes tits up (potentially). Correct fueling helps as overly rich mixtures don't necessarily help cooling as much as people think - easy way of burning up turbine blades, dumping excess fuel into the turbine.

Throw the Bus rods away - they'll pop the pistons out of the top of the block - could use a spacer but you'll need to add a link into the cam chain so its not like a bowstring!. Std rods gives about 9:1 CR I think from memory and i'd use the TD04

Not without billet cases I can't. The rods on mine had to be clearanced to the cases and that's only a 64mm stroke!

Virtually impossible to get to all the screws with the carbs in place and / or at all if in frame .......... yes - I have tried! Gentle heating generally works though and they can take some serious heat ie over 100 deg C

x2 - streetbike through funnybike ALL use OEM! Don't know about roundy - roundy .... they never seem to stay vertical long enough to worry about clutch slippage LOL!

If you haven't got the 40mm inlet rubbers - your going to need them whichever type of carb so can't see how the Keihins will be a cheaper solution? Yes I have used EFI - you do not NEED a cam sensor for EFI only if you want to run fully sequential. You don't NEED an engine temp sender - I didn't use one........ it's only really of use during warm up! EFI only REQUIRES a good crank pick up, a multi tooth trigger wheel, an intake air temp sensor, a throttle position sensor and/ or a MAP sensor (to assess engine load) and that's it!

That translates to about 152hp - which is pretty high reading for a stock bore with CV 36mm carbs. It's even exceptional for an 1100M with 40's. 40's are a pain to set up with anything but std. - suzuki did a good tune with them and don't know of anyone who's used 40mm cv Keihins - so set up advice is gonna be really scarce! All depends on what you want - good top end with excellent mid range or exceptional top end (that you'll mostly never use) and a mediocre mid range (which is were most peeps spend their time?) Lots try 40's and then revert to 36's or 38's which is sort of best of both tunes.

What do you expect the apprentices to do ? As blanks can be anything - hand stamping not unexpected!

Attractive..................they won't understand - you best explain! LOL After all these years, you would have thought someone would have come up with a air switch that doesn't break every 5 minutes - the MRE ones are shite!

More than likely or any other 'safety related PC bollux' that is fitted! KISS ..... Battery - Ign sw - Kill sw - starter button - starter soli - starter motor - earth ...........that's all that's needed!

Put mine together years ago but its good stuff - Motec M8, Jenvey dual injectors 46mm dia throttle bodies, 205cc injectors x 8no., 4 tooth ( ! ! ! ) crank trigger - std suzuki 1100 M VR pick-up and Denso Hall effect Cam sensor with single pin in the inlet camshaft. Its so old the Motec programme still runs in DOS and is so antiquated that it won't accept a wideband lambda without a code re-flash by Motec @ £00's - er! No thanks. Ignition was run wasted spark through a dual channel ign. amp to green Dyna coils but 4 channel amps are cheap enough now so it's an easy swop as i've got some GSXR 1000 K3 COPs - if I can be bothered LOL! I use an Innovate LC-1 with a DTA ecu in my Mk2 Escort.

1. Yes. 2. None that I can tell - but I did it anyway. 3. Sequential Ignition may be a bit more effective at lower rpms and cruise off boost. 4. There are very few ECU's that have successful knock sensing and adjustment. Needs quite a bit of computing to continually advance and retard ignition depending on fuel used, fuel quantities, engine and intake temps, vac / boost, battery voltage whilst listening for reliable knock signal as against general mechanical noise!

It ain't required!