Gixer1460

The basket spins on a needle roller bearing so there will be a 'degree of looseness' so some movement is possible / probable. Juddery / draggy clutch is usually hammered / notchy hub which can be filed smooth but rarely works for long time. Steels can go in either way - its not important although I used to put all in same direction, one way or the other! Others may have other opinions.

Don't forget it won't be proper unless you burn your left knee on the dump pipe whilst sucking your jeans and knee into the intake on the right - avoiding either of those and backto skool!

'Flexible turbo mount' ? Is that a way of saying you are hanging it rather than letting the exh. pipework and inlet manifold do the supporting? With my original Kawazuki the 3 tube frame spine offered plenty of attachment points so I welded a simple bracket down to pick up one of the turbine housing bolts - carried all the weight and allowed everything else to move around as it wanted. Likewise with the 1460 turbo hung out the front, it uses a couple of turnbuckle type rods and rod end joints to carry all of its weight whilst the exh. manifold provides the positioning restraint. I'm sure yours will be elegant engineering not a hacked bracket LOL!

Is it not the valve size?

That would seem to imply more of a problem due to float valve function ie. dropping level increases mechanical leverage on the valve? But, if the dropped level is fine at boosted levels, what happens when no boost present ie. at cruise rpm's - would that give lean condition?

Principles are exactly same whether GSXR, Blandit or GSX !

Exactly - its why almost std jet sizes can be used - maybe with a little increase - as the increased airflow due to the wind machine, increases the suction (reduces the air pressure at the venturi) over the jets in proportion to the air volume increase. Any jet size increase will be down to inefficiencies or mis-match in pressures. Its why injection works so well, you know the boost and it is proportional to the NA air requirement so you factor in that adjustment to the fuel map and job done.

Makes things 'easier' although finding the bearings is getting harder (the correct type). Its just pressing / pulling / careful balancing & indexing. There is a member on here that does his own but not commercially and he's in Europe so freight would be out of the question!

There should be no difference - fuel pressure is increased via pitot tube / FPR and float bowl air pressure over the bowl fuel is increased via the pitot - everything should be in equilibrium? I know theory is just that - but a 2mm change is big!

As you are in the US of A - is this the early 750 with roller bearing crank or the later 750 variant with the shell bearing'd crank (what we in Europe know as GSX types) as it'll affect crank rebuildability options.

All's well that ends well LOL! I wonder how many people playing with stuff like this, have been driven to drink just due to mis-assembly - I know I have! If it was idiot proof - nothing would get finished

No it won't be! Any work on these old cranks will effectively be a 'race prep' but not to the N'th degree but as said if the revs can be controlled, a std crank could survive!

Blimey - those ports have REALLY small drillings! I know pressure doesnt really care but I've always used a 'reasonable' bore pipe to WG actuator.

I can't see clearly in you pic but has the 'controller' got just two ports or three ie In & Out (+ an exhaust) ? If its two port, i'm guessing its a restrictive operation type so restricts boost getting to the valve which would mean gate never opens or only at super boost. If its a three port, and if you wind the valve totally closed, you should only get spring pressure boost, fully open and its max boost. Use with a blow through - you only exhaust 'air' - no flammable mixture.

Is the boost control mechanical ie. manual valve or electronic via a solenoid? Bear in mind any boosted air will be a combustible mixture so care where it is vented to!