Gixer1460

Step back from the wiring! Orange/Green is a switched live to indicator and idiot bulb circuits. Black/White is earth / ground / negative. All work via switching to ground. Connecting Orange 'Anything' to Black/White is a dead short and would be, in the words of Keith Flint, - 'I'm a Fire Starter' LOLs

I'd ride a 'slower normal'. Use the gears and keep a reasonable load on. Occasional 80-90% rpm won't hurt, just don't stay there. 500 miles change the oil and then enjoy it!

Cut the blocks off and crimp on some decent Bullets and insulated sleeves!

Pressure plate shows no signs - also no buttons fitted!

Would guess at early 1100 slabby but don't recognise inside of pressure plate! I'm guessing it's a hydraulic operation?

I don't disagree with the possible diagnosis but is there really water behind that location - would be an absolute bitch to cast / get the mould sand out ! I guess a sheet of plexiglass, clamped down, air and soapy water test will prove or eliminate, cracks in that position (between valves and valves - plug hole) not uncommon in GSX or GSXR oil cooled which do have coolant jets on the chamber and generally have no ill effects ?

Static as they are fixed to something but not fixed in 'space' as the fork leg moves with the wheel due to road imperfections. I thought this was primarily a sprung / unsprung weight question and removing those clunky old valve bodies should definately affect the way the wheel / lower leg moves! At the end of the day, I would defy anyone to be able to tell the actual difference in handling or suspension reaction if I placed / or removed 20 or 30 grams somewhere on a bikes suspension in a 'before and after' type test! Maybe a MotoGP level rider might but anyone else Nah!

Cutter refers to part of the fitting that literally cuts into the face cut end of the rubber inner hose. The braid is only there for protection. You could use plain rubber hose but normal fittings won't work with it as it usually relies on push on barbed or crimped on fittings. No one would use PTFE linered hose @ -10 size due to cost & meltage due to heat with cooler use! Look at 'Think Automotives website for info on all things hose related !

As said, wrap SS hose with masking or insulation tape where you cut, don't forget to fit the fitting 'nut' before cutting, don't cut SS braid back - the fitting is designed to capture. cutter fittings are good with rubber as forms a secondary seal, dont use nylon covered especially near exhaust. I used dash 10 but found it better to run ouside of pipes 1 & 4 as between was too close IMO.! Pic's shown turbo but was NA before and equally tight! Oh and cooler fittings at bottom are fine - cooler will NOR drain!

Its not a 'weekend type' swap! There is a huge stroke difference between GSX and GSXR in regard to barrel hts. There are lube and oil drainage issues. The gasket land areas around cam chain tunnels are different, minimal and missing in certain areas. You loose oil cooling facility and a GSXR isn't cool (rather hot actually) without it! For racing it works but for road bike - NAH! too impractical IMO (and I did it!)

If you don't want peoples thoughts - don't ask for them!

Sorry to say this but you bought a box / boxes of parts, assembled them and trusted they would work? Did you not question why everything was in boxes? I hope you paid very little money cos I think you got burnt! And yes, water will find a way into cylinders at idle and even not running - warped head / block, porous or cracked head / cylinders or multitude of other ways!

Leaking / ruptured diaphragm in tap and probably a leaky float valve in the leaky carb! A working tap only needs the one vac source that the factory fitted!

Answers to above - DJ's are a carb airflow correction device primarily to suit increased airflow due to free flow exhausts and air filters, so will work just as well with a turbo - its only pushing more air after all ! Foam filters are cheaper and easier to squeeze into tight spaces. I like, and have used many times, K & N's when possible. Never had reason not to doubt their claims when correctly used and serviced. Wouldn't use foam without oiling them which can get a bit messy. Without changing for comparison I have a 'tiny' K&N on my turbo inlet and breathed well enough for v. high HP numbers.

Why bother with tickover / idle speed? Engine isn't under any load so needs negligible pressure hence why a 'reasonable' working engine speed is quoted!