Gixer1460

Jammy git - only reason to put those type of barrels on is BIG bore pistons - anything from 83 - 86mm dia. Seeing as a BIG piston will cost nearly $100 you stole those!

Seems all a waste of everyone's time then - getting in the way of people that are REALLY there to go fast! And claiming a record - Seriously!

I know its salt, but couldn't a std ET manage that sort of average? Serious Question!

I was only answering the question not saying it would work LOL!

Where the bang happens determines the most suitable unit ie. the 750!

Just like a stocker i'd guess - looking at the gearing! It's got twice the engines, stock horsepower but twice the torque! Having 90 deg bends on the exhaust outlets - class! It's about the jenkyest redneck combination I could imagine!

Can't imagine anyone would make a specific relay for just lights - they usually are multipurpose. So if it fits, use it. Failing that just cut the plug off, re terminate the wires and use a std 4 pin / 5 pin 30A relay which are just a couple of quid.

How are you getting a 14cc chamber? From memory a GSXR 1100 chamber is about 21 or 26cc. Thats a lot of metal to deck off with potential for valves to smack the shit out of the pistons? Thick gasket as well!

Can't actually be calculated as piston will be out of the block by a mm or 1.5mm if using a 1mm thick gasket! So subject to what thickness block spacer you use, any chamber volume and thus CR can be obtained!

Always make that mistake - mine is an 'M' and is on an 'H' 1990 plate!

Bandit 6 = tappet head? and 1100M shim head, so its a bit more work than just sprockets as the cam shafts are completely different. Lot of work for no appreciable gain IMO!

Never seen stock figures published I suppose most rely on the stamped timing marks - these work well enough. As regard actual degrees with std. cams & adjustable wheels - 110 degs on both works for me in most cases.

I believe the shells were from a Kwak ? Its hard enough to find someone to line bore cam caps, even harder to find someone to overbore them, modify the caps and bearings and fit them - not saying impossible just V. spendy!

Not surprised - you've used one piston, in an un-restrained block and heated it 'uniformly'. Done this way the cylinders can move around and all of the piston is heated whereas when operating, its primary heat source is only through the crown so the skirt should be somewhat less and maintain its clearances. I'm guessing it's why IC engines are only 30 - 40% efficient - too much mechanical drag!

There are larger Eaton units - M90's that were fitted to big Jag's. I had a couple and had plans for fitting one to a 1186 engine but the drive train would potentially sap so much power I wouldn't get much more power than the T2 turbo fitted at the time so project got shelved! Also getting the drive out of an oil cooled engine isn't easy if you don't want leaks - air cooled sooooo much easier! Going back to a point above about 'big gobs of torque at low rpm's' - yes there is more torque available at low rpm but its not excessive. It should be proportional to throttle opening and more akin to riding a bike with a big bore / capacity hike that just keeps building capacity! A positive displacement supercharger can be undergeared to lower the torque curve so building boost later and less overall - but that's not fun. The real problem IMO is the difficulty of incorporating an intercooler, same as with a draw through turbo - they both need them but don't have the real estate!

Standard cooler tabs have rubber isolators in the slots - engine and road vibrations can fracture tabs and possibly that aluminium ? bracket - is it 3mm?

Well, for correct running you need 3 things - Sparks, Air and fuel. The first two seem to be covered, so even though carbs are 'clean' it would seem there is a blockage somewhere? If the alternative carb rack work correctly then its carb strip time again! DJ kits do wear especially needles and emulsion tubes but have a lifetime warranty so can be replaced but at idle / low speed when starting would be start / idle circuits needing investigation - but you do have some direction now!

As Busa barrels are nikasil coated aluminium the ring clearances are liable to be tighter as barrels will expand at similar rate to pistons. Clearances in a Steel barrel should be as for the GSXR - piston to cylinder clearance - 0.05 - 0.06mm, Ring end gap (installed) - Top ring 0.2 - 0.35mm, 2nd ring 0.35 - 0.50mm

Don't follow a part diagram to establish lead placement - all engines running wasted spark run coil 1 to cyl's 1 & 4 and coil 2 to cyl's 2&3. Coil resistance quoted is too low - should be between 3 - 5 ohms NOT 1.8! At that resistance its drawing too many amps and would probably break down with overheating?

Then you'll have to sacrifice one and grind it thinner then measure with a micrometer and work out gaps or purchase the thinnest shim from suzuki parts and do the calcs. The latter is what I did when I got a M head with no shims at all! If you use the grinder, obviously don't use that one - its scrap!

Long Gone.

Just looking at that picture tells you it has NOT got a starter solenoid built in - all wires that can be seen won't carry more than about 20A. It may have a starter circuit to trigger an external solenoid that sits between the battery and the starter.

You've been lucky then as most people have problems - generally slippage and / or dragging!

Hope you've got the right size - there are two.......ask me how I found that out LOL!

The point is there are far more fragile things than the tee's ie. the floats or the carb tops! And contrary to your statement 'floats have pressure inside' - they do not - just atmospheric from when they were moulded and so they have to cope with external atmospheric air pressure plus boost pressure.