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Shill

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About Shill

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    Ball Peen Hammer

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  1. It's specifically the collector box that rusts away, where the link pipe connects. That whole collar underneath can be taken off a new bit welded on - the actual downpipes and link pipe are fairly robust in my experience. Sounds like you're on the right track with carbs / fuelling, I don't have too much experience here I'm afraid! No inline filter or other restrictions in the fuel line?
  2. Nice one, cheers guys! Already got the little filter on the cam cover, just looking for the lowdown on the other placement I'd seen about. Looks like I'm good for now! Q2: how much smoking is reasonable out the breather filter... I asked when I got it dyno'd and the guy commented "yeah, she's just breathing a bit heavy" and seemed like nothing to worry about, when it's up to temp and sat idling it's a steady plume of smoke out there. Is that always the case? Might take a vid at the weekend.
  3. Hi all, I've seen a lot of builds with an engine breather+filter coming straight out the oil filler cap port. Wondered what's the advantage of this? Does it let you fully remove and blank off the breather box on top of the engine? Can see how that would be good for clearance if so. Any other advantages? Cheers Shill
  4. I guess they must have hundreds of mates and shitloads of beer?
  5. That sounds wise I think - would've been way easier with more stuff removed and resulted in less scratches!
  6. I don't know for def so worth a try (esp with all other stuff removed), but I'm pretty sure it won't fit due to the depth of the box between the frame/under the seat.
  7. It was a bit of a nightmare! I'm afraid I don't have any good advice really for this, it was a pain in the arse - each time the engine went in or out it was me and two mates supporting it and trying to wiggle it back and forth to get it around all the right points, with lots of swearing (we did it twice because I wanted to check the electrics etc were working before I committed to drilling the frame). The new lump is taller so it is a bit awkward. My process: TAKE OFF THE BREATHER BOX ON TOP OF THE VALVE COVER! To get it out, removed the side rail, sat the engine on a trolley jack o
  8. I did the conversion this year with a mk2 B12 but went for dual pods with a stage 3 DJ kit and dyno setup. If I knew there was an easier way to get it running with airbox I might've gone for that as a first step and saved a bit of expense, but can't complain with the result, making a pretty useable ~115bhp. Cheesemonkey also did a mk2 and modded the stock airbox to suit I think. I was going to write up my project at some point - it's definitely more straightforward using the mk1 engine, I think the harnesses etc match up easier. You mention needing a fuel tap, if it's the clearance you n
  9. Nice one! I saw this going on the uk Zuma group, seemed like a good price. What's the plans for it?
  10. Question on recommended clearance from the top of the valve cover to the bottom of the tank. On my B12 zuma, the gap is smaller than I'd like, <10mm. I'm imagining in some worst case scenario, say I forget about this and in a year sling a heavy tank bag on there, it could contact, and hot engine directly contacting a metal tank would be bad news. Is there a rule of thumb for this in terms of clearance? Plan is to space the front mount up with some rubber strips to gain an extra few mm - does anyone use any heat reflective / insulation material in applications like this? Am I worr
  11. Ah, I was figuring that the rough running was probably caused by the slide not moving enough, something to do with the reduced restriction effectively reducing the amount of vacuum it can pull on top of the diaphragm, so lifting the slides less. But I guess the pressure on the underside of the diaphragm is also downstream of the filter, so any change to that would affect them both, and the differential across the diaphragm is caused by the venturi, so is not significantly changed? I assumed the rough running was due to a loss in that pressure differential... but I suppose even if the dia
  12. Hey all, had the 1200 moving today, getting very close to roadworthiness! Clutch seems to working as it should. Not been out on the road yet, literally went in a circle in 1st gear. Wondering what’s the best thing to put on the end of the crankcase breather hose, a catch can or little filter? I’m not fussed about the look for now and really not keen on messing about with custom plumbing, is a filter on the end of the rubber hose generally enough? It’s smoking out of there a little which is a bit worrying, but again the thing hasn’t moved in a while so guessing it might reduce once it’s ha
  13. Sounds like a trip to the Netherlands is on the cards!
  14. Is there a ready source for cable sprocket cover lever return springs (you know what I mean!) Hoping it's a generic off the shelf part from somewhere. I broke my original one playing with the mechanism when I took it off Will stick with the hydraulic one for now since its on, but if it doesn't settle down I'll fit the old version.
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