Gixer1460

Clutches 1052 / 1127 are essentially the same parts although the later 1127 changed their springs to diaphragm type (and the primary gears are different). They are both capable units and can withhold upto 160-180hp N/A hp............ Turbo torque does them in at much lower hp in my experience. If N/A and application as described, some HD springs should cope - racers like the 4 coil spring type clutch from the 1052 motors as it is more 'tunable' but both will work. If a turbo was fitted then a lock-up is almost mandatory but you may have to cut holes in that nice fairing to accommodate LOL!

What do you need to know - if you;ve got the parts, I can explain the method - its not difficult. Good first outing - watching the video I thought you jumped but just excellent RT! Well done on the Round Win.

Surely impossible as the pressure size isn't a closed system - the regulator only bleeds off excess pressure doesn't hold it / back it up completely plus there would be other instant damage to bearings / cams etc with no oil flow?

That would explain an awful lot! So possibly although the papers say one thing, a previous owner has fitted an alternative engine that looks identical to the original - and if it pulls as you say this is a likely scenario! If you can lift the cam cover to see the cam lobes and cam chain type will give a definitive answer. Also see what the capacity marking on the back of the barrels will give it away - 1127 / 1157? Grey or Black engine colour?

Yeah good idea - the only things that won't seize will be the piston rings LOL!

That equals about 84hp ! ! ! That's about 40 - 50hp down on the 'full fat' versions! 36mm carbs will happily support 145hp so unless they have the restricted lift tops and severe down jetting - its not there. Exhausts can be restricted - washers or other baffles to make back pressure. Ignition mapping could have been played with by the factory - rev limiter / range restricted / ignition timing. Really soft cams is an option - especially with that amount of loss. Where in the world are you - may give a clue?

No adjustment as such - being hydraulic it is supposed to be fairly well self adjusting - which means its either assembled wrong, its a plate short in the stack, there is air in the system or multitude of other things!

No - those don't have the spring location peg, and are a lot shorter.

See here - Part # 13

From GSXR workshop manual.......

There is ! ....................................... most of the oil pump is in it LOL!

Who says they are aluminium? Just says ltwt., so are potentially Ti - I'd rather Ti than two alloys slowly welding themselves together and then twisting the head off!

I don't know what section its posted in! - my browser only shows new posts not where they come from!

Totally agree with your diagnosis - Its a bit of weight hanging on a relatively weakly attached tube, add in vibration and bumps and classic weld cracking. Either plate over the junction or add a flange brace between the two pipes - i'd add multiple TIG passes to build up joint section.

Apologies - air and oil cooled nomenclature confuses the hell out of me! Especially when GSX can be air or oil cooled! Try this one..... https://www.suzukiperformancespares.co.uk/product/suzuki-gsx1100-1133cc-cometic-head-gasket/3303/ A complete set always makes sense and Vesrah are ok - but most aftermarket valve seals aren't up to OEM standard and tend to harden / split / crack too soon - pays yer money and takes yer choice!

https://www.suzukiperformancespares.co.uk/product/suzuki-gsxr1100-1109cc-cometic-head-gasket/5078/ 78mm is std bore for a 1127 motor or 1 or 2mm overbore for a 1052 motor (I Believe?)

Probably best aftermarket gaskets you can get - used by race teams the world over!

Is it an air cooled 'G' or an oil cooled Hippo 'G' - is 1st question?

That seems to be the going rate for H/Gaskets whether OEM or Cometic - any other will be 'at risk' as they cost because they work!

Looking at the fiche drawings, these pumps 850 / 1000 / 1100 G do look like they are an integral unit - not like the 1150 models which are disassemblable (i've had a couple apart so know they are) The 'G' units may be riveted together and I guess ' no user serviceable parts' denotes no spares available. The two units look dissimilar so no swapping possible! Testing is usual only with complete motor - pressure isn't high even when healthy - personally if there is evidence swarf has come anywhere near the pump i'd be looking for a good replacement!

And yours is reversed!

+ the 'M' carbs (40mm) are a PITA to set up unless induction is absolutely stock! A repair will be likely cheaper than a replacement head. Using a Blandit engine in a GSXR will be a disappointment with its lower output!

I'm struggling here! A 044 is not a small pump (and its amp draw may give your electrics concerns!) and it seems to be fitted within a cylinder with nicely machined ends that all achieve nothing except make it bigger - at a guess, its nearly 100mm dia and 250+mm long? A 044 pump will usually support 500hp - do you need that much?

Doesn't make a great difference - it's just an endless loop of wire inside some plastic with connections at either end! It's more likely a problem with the wiring between the trigger and the spark box or between the spark box and the coils, if the coils are wired to power etc.

Wouldn't use one of them for that purpose - Intermediate duty cycle means it would likely overheat or seize if used continuously!