wraith

Yes I can agree with you, we all have seen the gsx1400,gsxr1000, inazuma etc with kat bodywork on and the owners called them the gsx1400 kat etc. Suzuki called there different bikes katana, as you say from a 50cc rev and go to the last gsx1000 katana and of course the USA GSXF. I'm not going to argue with Mr Suzuki what he calls his bikes, it's just the OSS bit, that the only katana is the original one, well apart from the popup headlight one And saying all that, the Katana Owners club UK or others will/do not recognise the GSXF as a katana Each to there own but sometimes you just need to go with whatever sites rules you are on

I've ended up before now, cutting the head of the bolt off. As they usually seize in the cam cover part. Then you can remove the cam cover and get the rest of the bolt out. You will need to remove the engine to do this. As above, yes I know in the US it's called a kat but it's not a Katana. It's in the site rules this is oldskoolsuzuki

Cheers mate, just thinking about something a bit lighter, as the stiff hands sometimes just don't want to bother with the clutch don't really what to go down the cable conversion as I like my fish sprocket cover.

A bit more digging, the one with the bigger piston is the 38mm from the slabby 750 the 35mm piston is from the gsxr 1100 sladdy and slingshot also the b12 rf9 etc So as you say fitting the 38mm should make the leave lighter but if it doesn't disengage the clutch fully, fitting a longer push rod help ? Think you'd be only looking at a couple of mm longer maybe. Daft questions yes but all info plus the brain seems to be working today

Ok all, because I'm shit at figuring this sort of thing out The clutch slave cylinders, you have the more standard 32mm piston (think it's 32mm) and the earlier 38mm (again think 38mm) could be out a couple of mm. So question is, if using the same master cylinder would it make the clutch any different between ever of these slaves cylinders? Ie make the clutch lighter or bit point in a different place? Thanks

Id say it a main power wire, time to get the multimeter out, but if you don't have one, unplug your side light and use that. Keep the negative connected, get a spare bit of wire put that on the positive wire from the side light and start touching the power wires (one at a time) with the wire. If you have power on that wire the bulb will light up.

Not seen one fitted. Always nice to introduce yourself before jumping in with a question

They had the 37.5 in original, had the pilot screws set at 3.5 turn out but it didn't like any less so when I had the carbs off to give them there yearly clean and replace the needle washers, I put the 40 in, had the pilot screws set at 2.5 and now at 2 seems to be working We all know what carbs are like

After having a think, and chatting to the bike decided to alter the pilot jets screws first, as that's the only real thing that has changed, apart from the aluminium spacer/washers under the needles, but that got them sitting straight. So turned the screws in half a turn and yes what a difference, still needs maybe a 1/8 to a 1/4 turn but it runs smoothly all the way through just had a bit of a bumble at 3.000 rpm, but like it was before where it was embarrassing riding at that revs So just letting the engine cool before I start putting my hands between the carbs and engine

Did you get anywhere with the clutch? Did the rf9 one fit

The emulsion tubes are still round and the needles look in good condition (for the year ) I'm thinking dropping the needles one groove first.

Yes I know, everyone asks carb setting questions Just wanted to run this by you lot. B12 engine, ported DOT head, gsxr cams, gsxr750 38mm carbs, K&N filters and open exhaust. So I've put 40 pilot jets in and new aluminium washers under needles (as standard plastic ones where well worn) Bike runs very well above 4.5-5 rpm Runs well in hindsight gear at 2000 rpm But if I open the throttle or try and ride around the 2.5-4.500 rpm it stutters and bumbles in any gear. Definitely running rich. Can't decide to alter pilot jets screws or drop needles by one first? So what would you all say? Pilots or needles?

I use these on my bikes Yes they are Chinese but they work very well, they are cheap Had one on the kat for the last 7 years and the one on the et for the last 3-4 years. Two down sides, the anodised fads, but don't they all. And as they are not a big expenses brand name, no bragging rights at the put/cafe car park

The MK2 is getting on to 25 years old, it will one of the regular bikes here soon

He'd get a lot of love if he breaks it and is selling the parts cheep