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its all in the prep I,ve used pound shop "black gloss" with no problems
- Today
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Patrol is good for removing PJ1 engine paint
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Thanks for all this chaps, I'll take the clocks off and do all of the above and hopefully get a good permanent repair
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PJ1 USED to be good, they have changed the formula, it is now Sh1t
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2nd for halfrauds engine paint
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Whatever it is, there's only 1 of em (floating about at least) I'll have a thorough look at all of the inners on the bodies now i've taken all the removable parts off. Also it has 102 Mains in, they sound like Dynojet numbers? The needle jet is very chunky & stumpy end, not pointy like i expected. And the slide has 3 holes, middle for the needle & a hole either side!
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it could also be the jet for the cold start circuit, which should be pressed in the plastic float holder. Compare with other carbs' parts to be sure. I thought the powerjet was not press fit but screw in?
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It's a power jet as Jaydee says, they're a press fit, they had a blind jet (#0) over here and you need an airbox for them to work properly - can't see a car having use for them … easy enough to get the carbs working and 38's are good - need to get rid of the metal tee's on the fuel feeds Rick, they'll heat up the fuel going into the float bowls - been there and done that !
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Car guys know jack shite about bike carbs except than they are cheaper than Webers! The use of a choke is a complete mystery to them so not surprised about the 'modification'. Re your little brass accessory - i'd be looking at pressed in jets or jet tips? - where from - not a scooby! Anything in 1 or 2 that looks similar?
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Wonder is it the power jet? Part number 32
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Started stripdown & all as expected on carbs 1&2. Then open float bowl on 3 & found this rattling round. Not a clue what it is? M6 nut for scale, no markings on it & everything else there as expected?
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So you can see that the throttle lever from Carb 3>2 has been cut & welded longer (Red) Mounting bar cut & extended (yellow) And fuel pipe T piece altered (green) looks like plenty of spares will be needed to get these back to working operation
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£90! Guy said he'd had em for 5 years & never used em. Bought for a Pinto project? Here's the other side
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Hope they were a bargain!
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Excellent! Ta
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Idle adjusting screw also missing
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yes carbs 2 and 3 are clearly spaced out around 1cm. Just look at the tab for the balancing screw. And the fuel feed pipe(s) also look dodgy. Post a pic of the other side, I'm sure many more parts are missing/modified.
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The castings are different and the DOT head will not fit the 750 M engine. The DOT heads came on 750 short stroke engines, 748 cc, but will also fit the 1052/1127/1156 cc engines. 1985-87 and 90-91 750s were all long stroke engines, 749 cc, and the heads have a different shape.
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measured mine - the lip on the tank is 18m above the spine, lip to *centre* of the stem is ~30mm.
- Yesterday
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GSXR1100WV Brand new clutch - Still slipping?
KoroKoro posted a topic in Water Cooled, V-Twins, Singles and 2-strokes
Hi guys, I've just replaced the clutch with new oem. New parts include: Main clutch disk set (pn:2140040C01) 1x smaller clutch friction disk (pn:2144246E00) 1x tapered spring washer (pn:0916400007) 1x clutch pressure hub (pn:2146240C02) (old one was chewed up pretty bad) 1x thrust bearing (pn:0926315003) I'm guessing I might also need to change the clutch sleeve hub (pn:2141046E00) I'm guessing its probably glazed over. I didn't notice that it was chewed up, just mirror smooth. Would it be worth going at it with some 400/600 grit sandpaper? or bin in? Unfortunately its a $200 part After writing this... I've just realised I may have thrown out the clutch spring washer with the old pressure plate (pn:2162340C00)... Which is in the bin... and bin collection day... and now its gone... crap! -
Ignitech set up........ I have no idea what I'm doing
manden replied to badger's topic in Oil Cooled
Any update? -
there are other alternatives however.....low profile you say ? better flow ?
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also the carb spacer bracket appears to have been cut in half (bottom of the pic) and had a bit added to bridge the gap. i wonder if someone has tried to make these fit an engine with different port spacings and then just connected the choke to two carbs. bodgery of the highest order! im guessing that theres something similar on the other side where the other bracket to hold them all together lives.
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Thought you knew that
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