All Activity

My 1100L seems to charge fine but the red wire from the alternator gets hot sometimes, hot enough to melt its insulation slightly where it plugs into the loom, the connection is clean and tight, would this be something that the charging mod would cure or do I have another problem? Any help appreciated.

It's not that difficult just take your time and as said remember the hidden nut and bolts.

Eventually getting around to sorting this gearbox problem, life-ill health- getting in the way. However I’m determined to start the tear down next week. Due to the extortionate prices and some parts being unavailable, I was wondering if I could use gearbox parts from other Suzuki models, ie. Bandit 12 mk1, mk2, Gsx1127f used parts or new - if they’re cheaper than Gsxr1100k. I will replace the bearings with new ones, but driven and drive gears may have to be used. Thanks in advance for any help, advice.

No, sorry

All together now . . . . . . Oh no its not ! ! ! LOL!

Suzuki have provided built-in indentations in the case in which to hold captive an M6 nut (or M8, I can't remember). This enables the cases to be split easily and with care using an appropriate sized bolt. Just slowly tighten each bolt and the cases come apart without the need for screwdriver butchery.

No - lock up is just the 4 bolts that compress the clutch springs then it falls off!

Anything I need to know about lockup removal also. Again new to me?? Be heading garage very soon Cheers for the input so far everyone

At the moment it's spread all over my spare room lol but will start getting some pics up as I put it back together

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1053286/Suzuki-2005-Gsf1200.html?page=110#manual I know thats B12 but the procedure is the same. Dont be tempted to use a pry bar to split cases. Once ALL the fixings are out they'll split easy enough. Just be mega careful not to drop the crank shells or get any grit/shite on them. You want to be operating theater clean, dont be tempted to wipe the shells either, leave them be. As CC said, easier to remove the clutch assy and the front sprocket while the engines in situ but a dugga dugga should still get them off. make sure youve got JIS screwdrivers to get the screws on the bearing retaining plates out inside the clutch housing, Impact would be better. Dont lose the little twagger that the oil pump drive gear sits on either if you go that far. Take loads of photos as youre doing it so you dont get the selector forks the wrong way around when it goes back together. Brake cleaner aerosols are your friend So is blue roll not kitchen towel as it leaves lint everywhere take your time Pick the phone up if you get stuck

And it's easier to remove the front sprocket and clutch with the engine still in the frame and the drivechain connected. So you can apply more force on the bolts. The starter clutch does not have to be removed.

Yes that's possible.

OK. Thanks for that. I should add that I want to leave barrels and head etc in place

Maybe @fatblokeonbandit?

And when you've removed all the bolts/nuts holding the engine cases together, look for the ones you forgot or didn't know about. Behind the front sprocket is one, usually covered in chain lube. And remove the oil filter to discover two more bolts. And behind the clutch basket is another one.

@Captain ChaosI've got a Haynes. But I'm sure that I've seen or heard about a write up a member did about doing it.

So would this problem cause the red wire from the alternator to get very hot at times? Mine has never cooked a battery and seems to charge fine but the red wire has been hot enough to melt its insulation, will this mod cure it or do I have some other problem?

Get a service manual.

Hi all. Could some shed some light on the lower engine case removal. I'm sure there was a Wright up about it somewhere. I've never done anything like this before. So something to have on the screen whilst doing it would be helpful. Also am I going to need any special tools. Work bench is clear and ready to go. 2 engine mounts and engine is out ready also Cheers all

Front end should go in right enough, you'll want a stepped top yoke though. Back end should be fairly straightforward too tbh, is it an overbraced arm?

Anyone put 03 gsxr 1000 running gear onto a efe?

Oooppppsss

Got a spare body bud ??

Katana