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So I insured it yesterday and later this afternoon am off to bolt the last few bits on then off for it's first ride since 1999 and my first time on a bike in about 15 years! Slowly seems to be the best policy

No worries shipmate, the doctor says the hernia should pop back in

I have just used the rings that came with the busa pistons on the 3 Turbo motors I have built with no problems, am also running 15psi.

From what I hear nowadays Q plates are quite sort after as its not a problem to swap stuff about on them like the engine.

What he said You cannot transfer a vanity plate onto a previously Q reg vehicle.

no, not allowed, Q is a Q

This might sound a stupid question but can you transfer a private registration onto a Q registered machine or not do you know?

Regarding the original post, this is exactly the scenario for which Q plates were intended and why a Q plate is reserved for vehicles whose original date of registration cannot be verified as it's made of parts from different aged machines. It is a shame this concept was perverted by a load of twats ringing stuff in the 90s and putting them on Q plates as now we seem to have some sort of hysteria over Qs, a sort of mass Q-aversion. It's even spread to some insurance companies, who won''t insure Q reg machines. Having a Q plate machine does have some advantages when it comes to MOT regs but this can itself be a challenge when explaining this to MOT testers ignorant of the regulations. I comment from the position of having owned the same Q plate Harris for 34 years. If you use the registration for your donor bike then you'll have to transfer the frame number to the Spondon, and effectively end up with a ringer. Doing this isn't exactly rare and is obvious when you see some frame kit bikes out and about (mainly at shows) but personally I would much rather have a Q because this is what Q is for.

when it was registered, wheels, brakes, engine, fuel injection, wiring loom, steering stem, cooling system, wheel spindles , stand, dash, exhaust headers, swingarm spindle , enough to get it an age related plate , on an aftermarket frame kit, without any hassle, arguments or gnashing of teeth. Jason Flather has an age related plate on his IZAX too and while all that stuff was from the donor bike, no one checked to confirm , photo's were sent, but I highly doubt anyone with an in depth knowledge of K series GSX-R's was drafted in the pour over them ?

if it was mine I'd just go with the Q plate, at the end of the day its just a letter !!!! the bike will still ride the same

God I've missed this forum. Top work mate, very much appreciated.

I don't make the rules - I just explained them! Explaining anything to the 'knuckle draggers' at the DVLA is a mostly pointless exercise generally 'Computer say's No!' And, just out of interest, how much of that bike ^^^ is actually OEM stock - I don't care, just curious?

Apparently - 1170cc / 75mm bore with stock liners. Or 1260cc / 78mm bore with different liners in a stock block - any larger has to go Gorilla style block + liners, then the sky's the limit! Anything with a OEM block should be ok with some extra oil cooling for street use - maybe not city use though! A few people have used Gorilla blocks on street bikes in the UK without drama's but these tend to be WELL cared for bikes, not a daily beater!

Why is the Q plate a deff ? Tell them you are re-framing your donor bike, using as many of the donor components as possible, wheels, engine, loom, brakes etc, mark on the DVLA issued ViN number, msva it , mot it , apply for a reg number, include a covering letter explaining how much original bike you've used and request an age related plate as per donor. Worked for me , mine is on an 04 plate not a Spondon, but don't see that making a diff

fair one, thanks for that

Ahh ok thanks, so it could be a bit tricky then... don't like the sound of having a Q plate

You haven't mentioned whether the fibres are OEM or aftermarket . . . . . general advise is OEM even for extreme use's! You say the plates are fine but are they in spec for thickness?? Other thing to check is notching of basket and hub - will cause symptoms described also a dry or frayed clutch cable won't help! If it was working and has got worse over time its liable to be wear / oil related, if its suddenly changed then something has broken or failed and if symptoms have changed after work then its something in the assembly that is different.

the only time (as far as i know) you can swap over the frame number is if you are fitting a brand new OEM frame. done it twice in the past under warranty.

The DVLA have tightened up the regulations severely in the past 5-10 years to stop the 'grandfather' rights of swapping / moving a chassis number from old to new. This is still permissible (I believe) if the new frame is essentially a reproduction / replica of the original ie. copy a GSX crap steel frame in chrome moly - same loops, angles etc. so std. mechanicals fit using std. fixings. In the classic car world, reproduction shells for Mini's, MGB's and Escorts are being produced 'aftermarket' no different as when 'service shells' were available from the original manufacturer - these can retain their original registration mark. A Spondon / Harris / Moto Martin / Martek etc. frame doesn't qualify - they are not exact replica's and so have to go through the MSVA test - requirements are available online - and if passed, you WILL be issued a 'Q' plate!

Just a question hopefully someone can answer If you had a Spondon frame that's not got a number plate assigned to it and the donor bike that the frame was built for how do you go about registering the frame to the donor bikes number plate? is this possible as the original frame is essentially what the number plate links to, I am sure I have seen spondon framed bikes with normal age related plate and not Q registered thanks in advance

found one on eblag , same model and carb number , it's mk2 carbs, tops are diff from mk1 , think it was less than a tenner

I need a set for a 36 and for a 38. Are these available?

Ive never bothered changing rings, never had any problems in over 20k miles. Run 15psi regularly and up to 17psi for landspeed stuff. Again never had any problems

Any information is appreciated. Picked up some 2000 Hayabusa pistons and rods. My question is actually ring related, since the Hayabusa was a chrome bore and my Bandit iron . Can the Busa rings be used? I'm suspecting I would have to buy a specific ring for that. Any input of how much more boost I can run afterwards? Currently at around 8psi.

A bit aggravated. I removed the clutch plates and there wasn’t any damage. The main shaft nut that sometimes gets lose was fine. I staggered 3 Barnett heavy springs with new oem springs and reassembled the clutch. Now it drags, won’t shift until warmed up and neutral is hard to get at a stop. From intermittent slipping to incomplete disengagement. Also changed oil to Motul 10/40 mineral. Something aint right