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I had a "used" one on BIg Red before, and it put me on two cylinders while I was on an interstate ride. I'm hoping for a non-OEM replacement if possible, but thanks for the lead.

There's a used one on Maarktplaats in Holland. It's been on there since December so you might get it cheaper. Here.

I am looking for a Signal Igniter for my GS1150 - the part # is 32900-00A10. It looks like Suzuki no longer has them as a stock item. Is there a non-stock replacement for this part? I have seen a part (CD2901D) that has shown up as a replacement but I haven't seen any evidence of it being sold. Any assistance available?

Check the cycle parts. The last time I had anything like that happen was due to one of my tank rubbers becoming displaced.

Try balancing your carbs.

I recently put an 1100 oil cooled motor from a GSXR in my 91 Katana and it seems that the clutch actuator rod is too long. I have a shorter one in my pile of extra parts but that one also seems too long. From my approximate measurement it seems to be about .300 too long. Is it common to have to cut that rod?

As much as i love a good stroke, thats not the point of the thread at all bud lol

Thanks mate, i was going to ask admin to move it but i see it has been, thanks bud

Oil pressure related? Small ends?

Oil cooled section

Hi all, wondering if you can help being the experts n all. Got a b12, 2002, 20,000 miles and I'm getting a a really annoying knocking / rattling noise on acceleration. Initially I thought it was detonation due to fitting the ignitech, but it still happens when using standard CDI. Bike is pretty much standard except stage 3 dynojet, pods and exhaust. The noise isn't there at start or idle, or revving freely. It comes in initially about 2000rpm, then goes, then comes back about 2500-3000rpm, then goes, then comes back between 4-6000rpm albeit quieter, at these revs it sounds more

the OP

Who?

I guess he did’nt get the proper “ego” stroking he was looking for......

True on all counts lol, i was not sure where else to post it on the forum.

The offset of a disc is from the mounting surface to the disc itself You should be able to find a compatible 17" wheel, if the one you find places the discs any closer together you will indeed have to use spacers to position the calipers accordingly. They are probably not going to me more than 5mm it's really no problem I fitted kawasaki discs on the slabside 18 inch in 1100RW USD forks on my katana at some point and just pushed the calipers inside with 7 or 8mm spacers and it was fine

Awesome as fuck bike, boring as fuck project, but indeed....

Having searched the forum and.info and much of the Internet for the past week or so I still find myself confused and in need of assistance. I'm looking to stick a 17" front wheel in the gsxr1100 W? USD forks on my ET in place of the 19" in there at the moment. It's fitted with brand new EBC md1153x discs and I'm hoping I can get a particular wheel that allows me to use these as I can do without the expense of buying others. The md1153x discs seem to be specced for 2004/2005 CBR 1000rr (girlsblouse?) Fireplace according to a few sites : Found here The discs by my measurements

I totally expected the comments, yes bikes are to be ridden, yes its stock, yes it is staying stock & ‘boring’, yes it wont get used. But to have a ‘as new’ 31 year old bike, preserved as it left the factory, is no bad thing at all. Different strokes for different folks, my last 1100M i stripped & rebuilt it as new, i love them all - modified, stock, ridden, used an ornaments, whatever is your thing. I have other bikes to use so this one will simply be detailed & then live in the house. To me an 1100L in blue & white has very strong sentimental v

They’re probably only going on a Blandit, might as well stick two Amals on it

Spose if you want smooth running refinement but not a modern bike, wants some standard CV's on it, thats why cv's were invented, because they make running much smoother and more refined than carbs that only have a slide.

the rs are ok.... but they lack the smooth operation like fcr’s .

Unless you're building a track bike RS is all you require for good street performance, 36RS on my efe

My knees are right against the ridge on the side of the tank instead of below them , I don’t think they are meant for 6’2 people

If you compare the hp and torque specs of the efe's to many modern bikes the stock efe engine still an impressive and competitive engine with loads of room for improvement. Where the efe lags behind newer bikes is in suspension, brakes and weight, all of which can be updated and improved.