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The clue is in the club name OLD skool Suzuki - for most, that line or heritage stops mid 90's - even WC GSXR's and TL's are considered a bit moody for some! OSS was and is, primarily European / UK centric hence only one bike style was called 'Katana'! Just because the 'new colonies' decided to put stickers proclaiming katana on everything doesn't make it right - I don't think it was the factories choice, more than likely some sharp suited marketing man who's never ridden a bike! America is the ONLY place this occurs and unfortunately just because it does, does not make it acceptable. The rules are there and are quite clear - everyone has to read them when they join so no excuses, don't like the rules then you don't play with our train sets resources!

100% agree. NA setups with carbs you do maximum power first to get the main jet done before doing partial throttle/cruising/idle. EFI turbo the other way around: idle - shakedown runs - low boost baseline - up the boost bit by bit and adjust/solve if/when necessary

They can't as they are 'dumb' and only work with what they get sent from the ecu / cdi / ignition module. More worrying if the tacho is being fed shite - what are the coils getting?

Can't you make yourself a spacer for under the cylinders? Use a basegasket as template

Need some jetting help. 1994 Suzuki katana gsx600fr full V&H supersportsystem uni filter(haven’t ran yet) sea level- needle was on fourth from top I need a better starting point plugs read lean. Only thing done to it before I got it was it had 115s put in. But it also had oem filter then. I’m thinking about trying 117.5s,a 35 instead of 32.5. Needle back to middle or fourth. And fuel screw somewhere around 2.75-3 turns out. Can anyone offer some help or tips? Am I heading in the right direction?

you can use the coils to power up a rev counter, on my GSX1100 that use a cable to work the rev counter i have bandit 1200 clocks, i used the (i think) the black/red wire directly to the pulse side of one of the coils, works a treat.

All stock… I’ll wriggle some wires & clean the connectors… hopefully that’ll help… coils shouldn’t really effect the revs then

Everything stock? I think it gets the signal from the ECU. Checking all and cleaning all the connections is the only thing I can really think of, short of swapping the ECU for another one.

Hi… my 1988 GSX1100F POWERSCREEN has decided to register the revs 3x higher than it should basically if I’m in 5th gear doing 50mph… the rev counter will be showing around 12,000rpm… if I go any faster the needle shoots off the rev counter scale Any ideas?… coils?… ECU?

Thanks for that, yes it does indeed work. The adapters are actually round internally, I was expecting a socket like design. The 19mm for the nut end is quite a good fit, but the 17mm for the bolt head not so much and has quite a bit of play. Abba were sure it would be fine once tightened in place, so I gave it a basic try and so far so good, everything fitted and no clearance issues. Fairly impressed it works with the 41yr old bike, although the rear strap use is a bit light on instructions (ie none) for bikes that can't fit a bobbin adapter. All in all pleased so far

https://old-skool-suzuki.proboards.com/thread/1546/oilcooled-camshafts-specs

Update on this, all sorted. The calipers weren't hitting the wheel but were at an angle and fouling against the disc. He put some small spacers between the calipers and the mounts on the fork legs to straighten the calipers, and the wheel now moves again

It's been my experience that RS38s are pretty close to the limit of slingshot petcocks. Pretty sure that big of a drop in flow with RS36s will have you draining the bowls on full throttle. Quick disconnects aren't a bad idea, but you'll need a larger one that flows better.

Sadly, I need to 'thin the herd' and it looks like the Bandit is up for sale. Either as a race-ready package with spare bodywork, wets on wheels etc, or back as a road bike with the race bits sold separately. Interested parties can drop me a line, and yes, it'll be cheap.

@wraith, I absolutely agree about the site rules should be adhered to , but as @Dezzapoints out it's hardly welcoming for our American cousins to be told to read the fuckin' rules 'cos your bikes a teapot not a Katana even though over there that's what they've been for the last 37 years, the main thing is we are all here for our love of old school Suzuki's and keeping the problematic old buggers going ...... The bikes not the owners obviously

I just use the filter on the pingle tap, nothing inline or in the carbs. No quick disco, just turn the tap off and run er til she quits. Kiss.

It's just a word (that Suzuki never put on their original air-cooled machines). It may not appear that welcoming to potential new OSS members with oil cooled bikes with sodding great 'Katana' stickers as applied at the factory many years ago, getting bollocked on their initial posts for understandably referring to their bikes as 'Katanas.' I suggest the bollockings cease .

I'm thinking about putting a quick connector in the fuel line to make getting the tank on & off a bit quicker, something like this which is pretty universal on modern bikes However those bikes are all FI and I'm wondering if it will be overly restrictive for an old skool carbed bike. In the interests of science I did an experiment to measure the flow rate and found that the 5/16" rubber hose will flow ~7.8l/min but the connector setup takes that down to ~1.7l/m. Problem is I don't know what the actual demand is. It's to feed an 1109 through RS36 carbs. Does anyone know what kind of flow rate is necessary? I'm also not sure whether to add an in-line filter - I tested one of the typical cheapo ones as below and only got 0.6l/min though it Any recommendations where to find something less restrictive? Cheers!

+1 Besides all the risks starting from high boost also makes tuning much harder. All kind problems like misfires and fuel supply issues are more likely to happen at high boost and diagnosing them can be difficult if you don't have a working baseline to compare with. And if you are making high power, like you shoud, you will quite likely face slipping problems with the clutch or tire. Which again prevents you to progress with tuning. Even in the best case the things just happen so much faster at high power that it can be difficult to properly analyze the data, especially if your tune is far from perfect. And after all you have to tune also low boost areas any way...

Google "Katana" and not a single aircooled Suzuki is found.

Yes I can agree with you, we all have seen the gsx1400,gsxr1000, inazuma etc with kat bodywork on and the owners called them the gsx1400 kat etc. Suzuki called there different bikes katana, as you say from a 50cc rev and go to the last gsx1000 katana and of course the USA GSXF. I'm not going to argue with Mr Suzuki what he calls his bikes, it's just the OSS bit, that the only katana is the original one, well apart from the popup headlight one And saying all that, the Katana Owners club UK or others will/do not recognise the GSXF as a katana Each to there own but sometimes you just need to go with whatever sites rules you are on

Sorry, not really a good plan! Just because you build a potential 500hp engine you don't hit it with 500hp for a baseline . . . . at those sort of power levels a little lean or fuel pump hiccup and you'll be sifting through debris! Lower boost baselines & tuning lets you see how the engine responds - takes more time but is waaaay safer!

If you are after o ring kits then contact Brian Mcall at Centurion motorcycle projects

Not really to be honest mate, especially in the oilcooled section , whilst I love an original Katana (who doesn't !?!) , there's plenty of fake ones about whether they're GSX based or Inazuma,or some other mongrel breed , and Suzuki called the teapots kats in the U.S. And even a bloomin' scooter got the moniker too , so what the heck we all know what's what don't we ?