Gixer1460

The bit you seem to be missing with have a 'tag' on the outside - this is the bit that passes the ign. pick-up to trigger the spark. It moves / revolves via the little bump - as the arms move out against the spring through centrifugal force, they force the tag to advance its position in relation to static position. Its clunky and mechanical, but it works. See Picture - not GS1000 but similar

And Suzuki more than likely had, and used it - even back in the 80's . . . . . . but 'back yard' bodgers still think they can improve on that - with road bikes - whilst bring totally unnecessary* (unnecessary* - as in no noticeable / appreciable improvement)

Not much from the OP - we must have scared him off - to many questions!

You are assuming they used some backyard bodger! Lucky7 used to have a good rep and turned out good work in the 80/90's! As regards engineering, that is pretty good and well thought out - all main elements are connected and braced in multiple directions, sheet is lighter than tube and has greater surface area to resist torsion + its bloody nice welding! That should be stiff as f**k - bastard to paint though!

Yes the Haynes Manuals are a bit simplistic but they do assume a degree of mechanical knowledge / aptitude - they aren't 'Janet and John Build a Motorcycle' LOL! And most of the required tolerances are noted at the beginning of each chapter if they have to be checked. You may be able to track down a genuine Suzuki GT500 manual but don't hold your breath as likely out of print for probably 40 years now although Google may assist! Plus they won't give you an easy way - only use special Suzuki tools obviously.

Try reading them at the side of the road, in the dark and pissing rain - with zip ties your guide dog can sort them out

Sounds lame but putting small zip ties - 1 around plug lead #1 and 4 round #4 will ensure you never mix them in future

That's the advantage of brazing tubes - dab the rod in at the back/sides and it'll flow through capillary attraction - 'big boys soldering' really!

I did say a LOT of load, but doing stoppies would apply lower comparable forces but if done over and over . . . . . fatigue sets in aaaand ! Which comes back to the point of - if it's likely to take that level of force - why brace at all? I can't say my old Zed framed Kawazuki using GSXR 1100 'L' yokes and forks ever felt 'weak' or 'flappy' and that was entirely stock, framewise. Don't exclude the fact that USD fork and yoke combinations are significantly stronger than OEM equipment and so will transmit forces to frame that would have previously bent the forks or yokes . . . . . . and i'd put the speed closer to 30 than 50mph! The above frame could be easily 'rectified' as picture attached - triangles !

I doubt very much the benefit of adding tubes to the headstock achieves any measurable difference! Arttu's arrangement using plate gussets adds far more rigidity in engineering terms. The frame with the std. spine plates removed will be significantly worse for flex compared to stock as the lower bearing area has less restraint ie. with a lot of load via the forks it could fold inwards. Rule of bracing - make triangles, That one has a nice rhomboid behind what it is trying to brace!

When I saw the tag line my brain started thinking GS1000 / GSX1100 but then a 400! Most peeps here, don't consider things less than 600 as viable unless its a 2 smoke LOL! so don't expect too many replies but with a large selection of hammers, grinders and welding equipment, and with time and ingenuity - most anything can be made to fit anything else!

Agree with Clive - at the Pod you'll get away with stacks (maybe if you don't ride back - top end ain't that clean) anywhere else deffo use filters or an airbox! I had a rock trap the butterfly open on an S&S in front of the turbo at East Kirkby which was fun - NOT!

1. Make sure it has a 12mm thread adaptor - older bikes tend to use them. 2. Easier on the starter if all 4 are out - put plugs in caps and rest the threads on cam cover. Remove tank as sparks can ignite any fuel vapours 3. I think everyone will answer the same - Oh Yes! If they've sat without being drained for anytime be prepared for nastiness!

If the side one has creased it makes it a bit tricky but someone who knows what they are doing with a gas torch could 'shrink' them out, minimising the filler. Obvs will require a repaint! Might be possible with weld pins and a slide hammer but tank metal is usually heavier guage so harder to pull out.

Sounds complicated! My method - Get a mate or two & bribe with beer - lift engine into frame upright - fit a couple of mounting bolts - drink beer!

VIN - Usually RH side Headstock. Combustion = Air + a Fuel + spark + compression . . . . . . . basic principles!

I was referring to the solenoid - not what it is mounted to! If anyone is daft enough to fit a body earthed (single control wire) solenoid to an isolated / rubber mounting plate without additional earthing strap then . . . . . .

And in oider Suzuki's, those iddy biddy ones inside the rotor!

If you understand the basic principles, you are 50% there as they aren't much more sophisticated!

True - and they are grounded through the body and mounting. Never come across a rubber mounted solenoid, always hard mounted mine without any problems!

If you just want to test the engine then a likely problem will be the carbs as the rest of the bike is a testament to disregard & abuse, these will be no exception so you may get sparks but no fuel = no running! A ghetto wiring solution is to connect bat + to orange/white of coils and CDI, ensure CDI yellow and blue (check these colours as may be different on a GS750) are connected to ign. pickups, black/yellow to coil 2/3, white to coil 1/4, any black/white to earth / chassis ground, Heavy red connected to starter soli and then to starter motor and heavy black from battery to earth / chassis ground. That will put power to the Ign system permanently and will be unswitched - take care ! - Bridging the soli terminals with a spanner will turn the engine over and should run ........ if the fuel system works. As this is ghetto - you can't turn engine off it runs, you'll have to pull the orange/white off the battery to kill it! It would be better to find a wire with colour - work out what it serves from the manual wire diagram and make the loom good between the items it serves, one wire at a time till complete and everything works - there really are no shortcuts long term and doesn't cost too much money!.................carbs might though!

The timing wheel is 'keyed' to the crankshaft so its virtually impossible although i'm sure some muppet somewhere has managed it! If you have the suzuki workshop manual it usually has a diagram indicating the camshaft timings related to TDC - just know that for a stock bike the advice / positions noted are correct and will work. Adjustable sprockets will be required to move cam timing and unless you know what you are doing - DON'T . . . . . . . pistons partying with valves always gets messy!

Do you know it will be 'inaccurate' ? Most tank sensors have about the same resistance range across bikes / cars / manufacturers and they are never much more than an 'educated guess' really!

All the info is there on the picture! Position crank so T mark is just before pick up as shown, then fit ex. camshaft so #1 mark aligns with cover machined surface then count 21/22 pins back on cam chain and fit IN. cam with #3 mark at that pin - all done! Start kicking yourself now!

Can't say it can't be done but 'scraping' is usually done on flat surfaces to true them up to micron / sub micron tolerances in flatness! As a pressurised oil fed bearing, there should never be a metal/metal contact only having oil drag to contend with! Scraping is also generally done on 'hard' materials - cast iron, steel etc. not aluminium as its too soft - any scraped peaks would be worn smooth through use.