Gixer1460

Its easy if your a good welder - if more like pigeon shit.....get someone else to do it! Take the rotor and starter clutch off and clean / degrease it, likewise the rotor. Renew the 3No cap head screws - HT or stainless - either is ok, thread lock them and torque tight. MIG or TIG 3No 1/2" - 3/4" beads between the starter clutch case and the rotor adjacent to the new screws, then refit the rotor. I've no pics of mine when it was done but it happily withstood plenty of 24v starts before I went to offboard starting!

As said you will use loads, you can up the compression up AND boost the tits off it and it won't detonate. Cooling can be restricted but you'll be changing oil very frequently. Only use fresh meth - don't store it as it goes off real quick. Don't leave any in the tank or fuel system - it hates aluminium unless anodised and goes white and furry - try and run gasoline through the engine before storage or yank the plugs and spin the engine whilst squirting WD40 through the induction system - that's about all you need to know! Oh and don't wash yer hands in it or try drinking it - you'll go blind , go mental then die!

Indeed good advice - I had std cam cover vent + 1No additional -10 hose from the cam cover with a -10 from centre of clutch cover and -8 from the oil filler, all on a ickle T2 1186 - can't have too many breathers as blow by and case compression blows out gaskets / seals.

Found this ....... http://www.rlrmotorsports.com/suzuki-slipper-clutches-872-p.asp - not cheap but it is a slipper.

Float assembly / cage doesn't appear fully seated - that would affect the height relationship!

Who says its possible? I've seen 1000 baskets grafted onto 1100 gear for fitting convertable / slider clutches but those ain't slipper clutches and never really heard of anyone saying 'that 1100 clutch is pants - I really need a slipper'!

These casing marks aren't specific to models - usually only accurate measurement will reveal which is which. Looks like some bad wear on those journals so they could be scrap?

Certainly not a common conversion given availability of Busa arms so obviously there is a reason - too wide, too big a spindle, too much faffing about!

Yep - 17mm ring spanner and stubby, flat head screw driver - easy peasy lemon squeezy.

Oil at 150 degrees ain't good long term but upwards of 250-300 degrees is needed to ' cook it'. More likely to seize before then!

It did sound wrong when I wrote it but I couldn't be arsed to check it LOL!

Are you trying to measure with meter on AC or DC? Should be AC and measure between output and ground. More likely the regulator / rectifier is Fubar'd they don't have the best reputation. Piss poor oil changes ie. 20,000 between kills genny's as the winding insulation breaks down and they go open circuit.

Pump doesn't 'work' better - it just works faster.

IMO if the engine is producing 130+hp they may be of some benefit although bottom end might be 'over carb'd', but add set of cams later and they'll be happier. As a GSX isn't a high rpm motor the increase in high end airflow isn't so much use as it would be on a GSXR.

Not sure it is a reaction! There are patterns and some look regular in lines. I suspect, maybe, the items were sitting on the floor or bench and something has been dropped near and splashed over them? What is anyone's guess but oil is a good candidate or possibly water if on to a fresh sprayed layer? I'm not a painter but aren't there isolation primers available for such situations - happy to be told 'shut up stoopid!' LOL!

Missed a * then LOL!

Where did you order from as Suzuki stopped making these about 5 odd years ago and the back-order stocks have been dwindling ever since so are getting rare NOS.

Or they go to a hinkey dyno who say its got 200hp ! ! !

Not that it makes any difference at this stage - what fibres OEM or aftermarket? The former are better by miles once the clutch has worn in. Unless you change the basket when you change fibers, the clunk / lurch / stall is a symptom of wear / notches in the basket splines and nice sharp edges to the fiber fingers. Rounding off the sharp edges can help as can filing the splines smooth.

Personally if i'd had a serviceable K/L head I wouldn't swop to a shim head. The M/N only gave more power due to the 40mm carbs and revs the trade off was poor bottom end and difficult to set up!

Correct! Look up Innovate for good kit.

The bit pressed into the lower yoke that carries the bearings. I Know its not the right word but suffices in this instance!

Well if going 'all out', it's unlikely you'll be stuffing big cams in there without head, valve, spring and seal work. Max lift, from memory, before you get spring issues is 0.370" so after that the seats and retainers need adjustment also the guide needs recessing to allow higher lift without touching. I don't think you'll get a 'long term reliable GSXR type engine with lifts approaching and over 0.500"

Hardly mounting the frame off the engine rather than using the engine to provide additional stiffness. Still can't fathom why you'd want to mount a damper to the engine? If you haven't got a frame to mount a 'normal' damper why not engineer a mini damper off the headstock to the top yoke or a Scott damper on the yoke to the spindle?

You disable the pump as it clouds what the main is actually doing - once the MJ is correct you re-enable the pump. A wideband is a really useful accessory and can help avoiding a dyno. A workshop lambda won't really help as the motor can't be run under load like on the road or on a dyno.