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Showing results for tags 'clutch'.
Found 8 results
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Finally made it to road testing. But have noticed that when I give it gas the engine responds, but it doesn't really translate to speed. It speeds up but kind of slowly. We are talking like 2nd 3rd gear here, nothing to crazy or near top speed. Engine is also reving to like 4-5k rpms for like 40mph. I feels like the clutch might be slipping. So I was wondering if that feeling combined with very little clutch lever friction zone could I need new clutch plates?
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I was continuing to work on my clutch but I noticed that there is an oil leak coming from the Clutch Push Rod and Oil Seal (Blue Arrow). The clutch push rod looks worn and even has a scratch in it. I found that I could stop the leak by pulling the rod out past the wear spot. So it seems that I need a replacement. However no one seems to have a replacement. OEMs have the seal (22) but not the metal push rod (21). Am I missing something. Is a rod and rod and I just need to find the correct dia and length? or am I just going to have to play the waiting game for something to show up on Eblag.
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I have been rebuilding a 1981 barn find that sat for 35 years. It have been fun, but I am struggling with the Clutch. The clutch was extremely hard to pull. By extremely hard I mean nearly impossible. So I disassembled both the clutch basket side and the sprocket side. Cleaned the clutch plated with alcohol and paper towel and then re-oiled them. After reassembly and tonguing the clutch bolts to 8 ft/lbs the clutch is better, but the lever still requires a large amount of force to pull it. While I had everything apart I check the clutch cable. It was easy to pull and smooth. I check the clutch screw and it was rotating smoothly. Finely I tried removing 3 of the 6 springs and it felt "Right" Easy to pull and smooth. But leaving 3 springs out seems like a bad idea. Lastly the clutch doesn't seem to be fully disengaging when I pull it. If anyone has any ideas on what is going on or adjustments I can try please let me know. Thanks
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I have a 1981 Suzuki GS550L. The clutch seems to not be working/moving. In my research and prep work I am looking for replacement parts, but I have found a part on the schematic that I am unable to find a name or part number for (Green Arrow). I may or may not need this part, and it might just need a good cleaning, but would be great to know the name and number for this item to be ready to replace it if needed. So I turn to you awesome people and hope someone knows what it is.
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I have a never ending story with my Zuma. This time I cannot figure out issue with clutch. I did a overall maintenance on pump and piston i.e. sealants, springs etc. I also changed a brand new EBC plates and clutch pads. When cold everything seems to be ok, afterwards the clutch starts to slip when temperature rises. At first I observed that during gear change with clutch, now I can't even accelerate coz it slips constantly on higher rpms. Another thing is the oil temperature for e.g. today we had around 20-25 dgr cent. outside. The oil temperature oscillated between 110-115 dgr.cent. when ridding moderately.
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Hi would like to pick your wonderful big brains if I could about my brothers 1200 bandit, he bought the bike as a fixer upper and I've got the job of the fixing haha, it's got a cracked alternator drive, got a new one ordered but while I was tinkering I thought I'd just offer the old one up to the alt and oil pump just to try and get a feel for it meshing for when I fit the new one. Something isn't quite right with it, to me the alternator gear on the alt seems too big. My question is are there different size alternator gears?,could this be the wrong alternator fitted and that's what's knackered the drive on the back of the clutch basket, when the gears are meshed the main shaft is miles out of centre. Just to note the sprocket is off the basket. Any help and info would be hugely appreciated cheers
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Hi guys, maybe it’s because I’m used to modern bikes but the clutch on my gs650 feels way to heavy & hard to pull. Is there anything can be done to lighten the lever? I’ve a feeling the clutch is slipping under hard acceleration maybe that’s not helping things.
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Bandit 1200 clutch slave cylinder piston Seal keeps blowing
kamahasanyi posted a topic in Oil Cooled
Hi. The bike is 2006 Bandit 1200 (SK6). The piston seal on the clutch reserve cylinder keeps blow. I changed the clutch. Started it up, heard a clunk from the left hand side, and then saw brake fluid leaking I rebuilt the cylinder and put in braided clutch hose. Go to bleed the clutch, just as the lever gets hard and I can start with the bleed, bang the seal goes again. Anybody have a clue what's going on? I am a bit stumped. Two main candidates: either the slave unit itself is at fault and needs to be replaced or there is something wrong with the right side pushrod (the left looks okay). I think it may be the latter. My working theory is that if the pushrod doesn't move, then the piston can't and the pressure behind the piston blows the seal. If so, clutch will have to come out again: the right side pushrod is way deep in there. I guess there is the third option of the clutch master cylinder having an issue but really doubt it. Please help. Thanks
