Gixer1460

Not necessarily - I know of a couple of bike dealers / traders that have brand new bikes still in crates - Zed's, CBX's etc that have been stored perfectly and could be assembled, fueled and run. As long as rubber is away from UV it'll keep well - whether the rubber hoses will fall to bits with ethanol doctored fuel is another matter! These bikes are their pension funds - one has more than a few old classic Brit bikes stashed away and NOS OEM parts ie. Velocette / Vincent pistons still in the greased brown paper wrappers - its all out there, just got to go and find it!

Seeing that picture you can sort of understand why Steve Burns really tried to get Bob to re-align that side tube to be more parallel to the cylinder fins on his Monster Bike - it does look wrong doesn't it?

I had an Oil boiler in a Kwak Z1000 frame with GSXR wiring and Kwak switchgear - everything worked and nothing melted - anything is possible!

Nowt stopping you welding an aluminium saucepan to the cover though is there! LOL!

If that's where your arse needs to be - then that subframe is gonna get some MAJOR surgery. I still think the 916 seat works well / aesthetically, its padded properly .............................. and its cheap!

Was it cranked with the treacle? If yes then the gloopy oil may have forced the relief valve off its seat and stuck open? Check the switch as well - thick oil stuck open as it doesn't really get 'flushed' out?

Any performance parts importer can get them - supplied by APE, MTC, MRE, Orient Express etc. probably cost now £300? I think Stuart at Warpspeed Racing could / does something if you wanted UK sourced?

http://www.ramair-filters.co.uk/shop/motocross/sock-filters-motocross/2-x-twin-inlet-carb-socks-5/ would probably be about right if you want 'pods' - centres are a bit off but not a biggie. I think i'd fit the ram pipes into the filters first then fit all to the carbs because the outer lips of the stacks are pretty close together when on the carbs and I think foam rippage would occur fitting insitu! Ram pipes come in short 25mm, medium 50mm and long 70mm - select on where you want the benefit - short = high rpm, long = lower rpm.

Common sense says if the 38's are working well the same jetting suite will work fairly similarly although i'd increase the main by 10 points as although the carbs will flow more air, if the engine can't draw it in, it could potentially be slower so the jet will flow less fuel. Sounds backwards but unless something has changed inside the engine requiring more fuel the extra air can't be utilised - so there's your baseline setting.

In that case i've had three personally - first was bought early 90's when they first came out - non programmable and is still going ok, last one on my 1460 and programmable type - no probs. Originals made in the US then they switched to far east manufacture and peeps having problems DOA's ....as were other electronic unit suppliers so not exclusive - less now so maybe QA has improved or they've switched back to US? If it was me, i'd use a dyna as a trigger for EFI NA. but not use it to control ignition on a turbo - the resolution isn't enough to cope with starting, idle, off boost cruise and then boost - just my thoughts!

If it was 150 at the sump you are on the edge of reliability life - ok if a full synthetic and regular changes but ideally 110 - 120 deg are optimal for mineral or semi synth. Running static just isn't good for the engine - its not under load and is heat soaking in areas not designed for it ie. head over heats while gearbox hardly heats at all!

Is this a serious question? Its probably the most popular aftermarket ignition after the Dyna S by volume sales! Unless you need the Dyna 2000 tuning features, the original ignition is perfectly adequate. Question is are you planning a full EFI or Semi EFI conversion? The former won't need the Dyna, the latter can be used for ignition and triggering the injector ECU.

I knew Arttu would have a map somewhere - & as he said above, once over the cruise area, the numbers can virtually flatline. If you are brave and have a dyno that can hold at load and rpm, you can play with the advance to optimise although most dyno's don't like doing it as a) it takes time to do and b) it really stresses the engine ie. max load for up to a minute at a time - its scary!

Depends on what size bearings it has presently - I believe there are 3No bearing sizes to allow for factory machining tolerances - if the relevent journal is undersized already and there isn't another undersize bearing to go then its either leave well alone, metal spray and re-grind or scrap it. I wouldn't try DIY crankshaft re-facing! LOL!

Strange advice from Dyna as surely 3 ohm is 3 ohm is 3 ohm whatever the package. As the green coils have been used for decades with Dyna 'S' that's the safe option but can't understand why they recommend de-rating the new coils for use with an 'S' ?

The timing seems to be sloped right across the board - I'd prefer to see bigger numbers in the 3 - 5000 / up to 100 kpa as that will improve low end and cruise off boost with a gentle tail off toward max rpm and then trim some of the on-boost figures. Will a Bandit engine go to 11000 rpm? Can you re-space the rpm load sites for a bit more resolution low down ie. 600, 1000, 1400, 1800, 2500, 3000 and up to 10500? IMO, the cranking figures ie 500 should be sub 10 deg as mine used to kick back on the starter with teens? Are you using MAP compensation or is it just this table?

I know its counter intuitive but if the pump isn't running / having pressurised delivery, then it won't be running right! Otherwise when the pump is switched on, you are back to square one!

I've a set of 41's that are for my 1460 so should be ok airflow wise LOL! A M8 tried them on his 1216 and whilst the top end was there, they were pants at 'non licence losing speeds' so i've given him some 36mm RS's which have just been set up by Sean @ Big CC and total transformation - road manners, lifts the front in 1st 3 gears on the throttle + 156hp top end = happy bunny!

FCR Side and down draught main body castings are completely different so the above doesn't work.

Why the fuck did I read GSXR and not GSX - DOH! Anyway - answer the question LOL!

Thats what I thought or Zed - certainly that era!

The downdraughts are also a different spacing so x2 not fitting

I disagree with the 1st point - pushing an incorrect master cylinder piston 1/2" or 1" won't make the clutch springs any easier to compress! To do that, the master cylinder bore requires changing....... that will mean more or less fluid transfer. Then you correct the lever ratio more or less to move sufficient fluid @ increased pressure to push on the springs, so giving a lighter feel - the clutch cover will still only move the same amount. I believe the OP set-up will require a smaller master cyl. bore to increase line pressure and a lever with a greater stroke to move the reduced fluid capacity. The lever is the hardest thing as unless its like the 'high end - multiple adjustables' like the one above, most have a fixed lever ratio to suit the 'average' rider.

They ain't like any GSXR coils that i've ever seen? Numbers ain't the worst - what about across the LT terminals? They do look fairly ancient / rough round the edges? Maybe blasphemy but get some h o n d a coils - direct replacement and NEVER fail, just change the plug caps to suit.

Gotta say the 'cheap' one look like a bloody good rip off imitation! For £60 its got to be worth a punt - the pivot adjustment stated on the 'real' one is huge - nearly 10mm - that should make a considerable difference in feel?