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harryhoarder

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  1. Thanks for the advise. Is good to know I'm not the only who gets baffled by electrics. Been so long since I rode the old girl . Is that right the clutch needs to be pulled in before starting ? Can't remember doing this when I last rode it although I think modern suzuki need clutch in to start. Clutch lever is off the bike at moment as it's been fitted with new front end (k9 1000) so this may be the problem .Will fit it and see what happens.
  2. Hi all I've got a 1988 1100 j that hasn't run for about 20 years. Engine is free I turn it over regularly and put oil down the plug holes. I am now at last able to bring her back to life. I put a battery in connected up the electrics but she wouldn't turn over. I've got power to the clocks,high beam and indicator dash light. The headlights rear lights front indicators aren't connected. Is there something I am missing. I have been following Martin Childs slabbie build in classic motorcycle mechanics and am doing a similar build. I notice he mentions a resistor in the wire immobilisation which was an early theft prevention . Not sure if this was a standard fitting or something someone fitted to his bike. I don't remember any immobiliser fitted to my bike when I was riding it just turn the key and press the button. Anyway you may have gathered electrics aren't my strong point so any help is welcome Cheers
  3. Thanks for the advise. Will be doing more research as the project progresses. It's slow going due to time and me wanting to do it right but I'm having fun (mostly!!). My motto is if it's going wrong leave it alone have a cuppa come back later. Before the hammer starts flying! You mention the cam sprockets I'm assuming you mean adjustable sprockets? If so will have to look for UK supplier. Which ones did you use so I can see if I can get some.
  4. Just had a quick look in article section. Can't see anything. Only 3 pages most of it being the bike of the month . Will have a look through old post for info when I have time unless anyone can tell me where to look.
  5. Thanks Manden. I'm guessing the bst36ss carbs are bandit carbs? Ive said before this is all fairly new to me so will be asking some fairly basic dumb ass questions. Bear with me we all started somewhere? Been messing with bikes for the last 30+ years but never to proud to ask for advice. The man who knows it all knows nothing ! So by using the bst36ss I assume will have to bin the air box and use pod filters ? As the manifolds will be different sizes
  6. Cheer What carbs do you suggest my bike is a Japanese import although the frame plate is from Australia. Not sure if these bikes were restricted in any way . It's been of the road for about 20 years but do remember it was good for 130+ on the clock . Although it's a budget build I would get some better carbs if the gains were worth it. I'm prepared to spend around a grand on gas flowing and carb replacement Or give the standard carbs a refresh and dynojet ??
  7. Hi guys I'm doing a refresh on my 88 1100 slabbie. Just got a 1000 k9 front end fitted and a 750m rear wheel. My plan is to get the thing running and set the suspension up then possibly do a bit of engine tuning. I have a set of hindle headers but no end can and a k&n filter in the standard air box. I'm looking to get the most from the standard engine , using different carbs and maybe gas flowing . What's do you guys suggest. I'd be happy with 120 - 130 bhp. Bottom end and grunt more important than top end as it's going to be 99% on the road. Have also seen comments on k9 forks being a bit harsh on the road anyone got experience and hints on spring rates oils etc. I've got a rear shock from a BMW 1000rr haven't offered it up yet but it came out of a 750m frame anyone done this.? I guess my questions are a bit basic and been asked a thousand times before but you've got to start somewhere!
  8. Hi Anyone able to tell me the bearing size I need to fit the say what now!? k9 1000 into my 1988 1100 slabbie. Or better still the code number from a UK distributor. I've been told I'll need a spacer to fit under the top bearing cup and the bottom one is the same size on the k9 and slabbie. As I said at the start of the thead it's my first conversion project so sorry for asking dumb newbie questions!
  9. Thanks for the advise . Just ordered bearings from robinsons foundary on offer at the moment. With regards to the inch I'll loose in ground clearance . I'm assuming that with the change to 17" wheels and shorter forks I'll loose 2 inches at the front. And and an inch at the back..Will this be a problem with ground clearance, I'm guessing so or else you wouldn't be putting extenders on !! What are the improvements in the handling after the mods you're experiences would be appreciated
  10. Àt long last my old slabbie is being resurrected! ! Picked up a 750m rolling chassis with k9 1000 front end . 750m rear wheel fitted no problem as we all know! Got the yokes in but top bearings sit proud about 3-4 mm This is my first attempt at this sort of thing although I am a competent home mechanic So question is what now .? Has anyone done this? Is there a bearing that will fit or is it a case of a stem swop ? I've searched up to about page 20 on the forum with not much luck so thought I'd ask for someone's knowledge Added some pics . It also came with a BMW s1000rr rear shock fitted will be seeing if that will fit as well.
  11. Thanks for that!! A bit more knowledge to add to the little I have.
  12. Bit of a newbie question but what is a dot head?? And why are people fitting them? I assume is a head from a later model bike.
  13. I know what you mean Mabd but dad was into bikes and stationary engines uncle was into tractors and anything old. Now the've all past on and left me to deal with it.
  14. Join the queue Madb!!! Trouble is I`m keeping the bike stuff If youre into old tools bits of furniture land rover parts etc let me know
  15. Cheers Swiss Toni will start looking
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