Gixer1460

Assuming these are COP's - they should be no more loose or sloppy fit than std regular plug leads - your solving a problem that doesn't / shouldn't exist.

Or diet, lose 10kg = save money, eat less, go faster! Honestly, losing all the extraneous crap bolted to a bike and being weight conscious with stuff you add is usually a lot cheaper than buying HP

L has screw and lock nut tappets - M has shim adjustment. Only the M and N's have the revised port shape and it's not radically different to the K or L's

Blandit ones dead easy to spot - I would suppose that the deep vee sump offset to one side would be GSXR 750 to suit stock 4-1 the central Vee would be more suited to 4-2-1 systems like on 1100F's and GSXR 1100's - not scientific but sounds logical.

Generally bugger all to fix them to and if you find somewhere, it'll probably be more delicate than the fairings so you'll save the fairing and break something more expensive / crucial! Other option - don't crash LOL!

Movement in starter clutch gear is normal - it floats until the rollers engage to lock it to the crankshaft. Can't hear rattles cos of the noisy exhaust!

If its road biased and not all top end, you are looking for torque - big bore good for that also head work as airflow and cylinder filling = torque. Personally i'd stick with RS36mm carbs and throw some Kent stage 1 cams at it and you be looking at mid 155's HP and nice torque. Forget a 6 speed - no need to keep engine boiling if you have pull! If its got a 1216 kit, it should have compression and so a DOT head will be too much. Good coils - bonus and Dyna 2000i IF you need ignition adjustment, stick coils bring nothing to the party so save money.

Well I know for a fact that a GSXR1100 K/L/M trigger wheel looks nothing like a Blandit 1200 mk1 wheel and would assume that neither will look like a 1052 wheel ! Haven't a scooby doo whether the teeth are in the correct place relative to the crankshaft - wouldn't it be easier to get a Blandit pick-up and rotor so you know it'll work? I assume you have the mk2 Ign. switch as well?

They don't need a 'special touch'! They are an engine pure and simple - what they need is someone skilled in the work, Orient Express I'd trust - they haven't won multiple racing championships by NOT knowing what works!

Aren't Orient Express based in New York state - they should be able to handle a job like that! ....... http://www.orientexpress.com/c-305-cylinder-head-porting.aspx

In that case try Sudco - they should be able to assist. Only seems to be one part / assembly across the range.

Not unusual but tricky to avoid looking like a dogs dinner! They all MUST be air tight obviously - pin prick holes can play havoc!

You'd be surprised then as one of the most powerful nitrous road bikes in the 90's was a Hippo! Was an active member on the old, old site.

Yep!

Should be 3 wires - red ...... power, white to 1&4 coil and black to 2&3 coil.... see here...... http://www.powercommander.com/downloads/Support-Released/Dynatek/Manuals/DS3-1_3-2.pdf What are you using it on? As a road bike will require the GSX1000 / 1100 mechanical ATU and deep cover. Without it you'll be running fixed timing which is a bugger to start and mullers fuel consumption!

No difference as regards bearings , throws, weight etc - only difference is cam chain sprocket it different between the two!

Don't revise your self assessment just yet - M on (and some L's) had diaphragm clutch operation but with a proper steel basket not the ally one held together with straps!

Can be done with numbers but there are cross overs, Easiest way is look at cams - screw and lock nut NOT an 1100 or 750 M or N - they both have 16 rockers and shim adjustment

Not necessarily - I know of a couple of bike dealers / traders that have brand new bikes still in crates - Zed's, CBX's etc that have been stored perfectly and could be assembled, fueled and run. As long as rubber is away from UV it'll keep well - whether the rubber hoses will fall to bits with ethanol doctored fuel is another matter! These bikes are their pension funds - one has more than a few old classic Brit bikes stashed away and NOS OEM parts ie. Velocette / Vincent pistons still in the greased brown paper wrappers - its all out there, just got to go and find it!

Seeing that picture you can sort of understand why Steve Burns really tried to get Bob to re-align that side tube to be more parallel to the cylinder fins on his Monster Bike - it does look wrong doesn't it?

I had an Oil boiler in a Kwak Z1000 frame with GSXR wiring and Kwak switchgear - everything worked and nothing melted - anything is possible!

Nowt stopping you welding an aluminium saucepan to the cover though is there! LOL!

If that's where your arse needs to be - then that subframe is gonna get some MAJOR surgery. I still think the 916 seat works well / aesthetically, its padded properly .............................. and its cheap!

Was it cranked with the treacle? If yes then the gloopy oil may have forced the relief valve off its seat and stuck open? Check the switch as well - thick oil stuck open as it doesn't really get 'flushed' out?

Any performance parts importer can get them - supplied by APE, MTC, MRE, Orient Express etc. probably cost now £300? I think Stuart at Warpspeed Racing could / does something if you wanted UK sourced?