Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1,132 Excellent

About Duckndive

  • Rank
    Sledge Hammer

Personal Information

  • Location
    Midlands UK

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Helical so its an 1100F basket ...be interested to see pics of the clutch when you strip it But i think it needs another steel and you need to shorten push rod maybe Are you using cable or hydraulic operation EDIT and check to see if there may be a ball bearing between the clutch push rods
  2. it could have 1100 K crank and basket "also coil spring clutch" or a slabbie crank and basket again coil spring clutch.... only the 1100F had a helical gear as far as i know not sure what the shafie had but the crankcases are different on that anyway
  3. Does the clutch basket have a helical gear or a straight cut one ?
  4. so are you saying the clutch pressure plate is not being pushed when you operate the clutch ?
  5. does it fit closer without the clutch lifer in ? as it looks like its out to far which would point to wrong lifter or push-rod / s Edit "it looks like it needs another plate in the stack...is the fixed steel on the bottom of the inner hub ?
  6. Check the part no,s on Robinson's or Fowlers websites But I would have thought so.
  7. The yoshi set up has sender in sump......
  8. While you have it off its worth checking the rollers and springs "the rollers tend to get flat spots"
  9. Simple answer is yes https://alpha-sports.com/suzuki_parts.htm?fpg=/spst/1992 GSX1100G/55.htm but you would need to swop the transmision shaft / gearbox as well https://alpha-sports.com/suzuki_parts.htm?fpg=/spst/1992 GSX1100G/55.htm the crankcases are not exactly the same as a chain drive as they have a unique sump and a crank balancer shaft as well but as they say anything fits with modification
  10. It normally breaks the oil pump drive teeth if you replace the clutch basket without checking "ALL" the parts are lined up correctly ....common School Boy Error not RTFM It's much easier to avoid if you remove the Alternator before fitting the basket I have some spare teeth from one i bought with the same issue....
  11. That was also my understanding
  12. APE did a better retainer that stops that happening with high lift cams etc
  13. Easier to buy a screw and locknut head....
  14. not as a rule .....i would say it was a little light on weight when installed and now the plates have bedded in under the right conditions it slips a bit... i used to run my turbo efe on 3 stock springs with a nut and bolt on 3 arms and a bolt with 2 nuts on the other 3 arms....one finger pull on lever 1.60 - 60 fts and no slip on road Caveat but not all bikes are the same on that set up
  15. Most Lock-up clutches on Turbo road bike have been fitted to beef up the stock clutch and stop slip and not what they were originally designed for "Drag Racing" Give the symptoms you describe it sounds like it may need a little bit more weight on all or some of the lock up arms .. This assumes it was fitted with the correct air gap and some weight,s to start with ? By Weight i mean "Nuts, Bolts and washers"
  • Create New...