Duckndive

diagram of set up would help you need external wastegate but you normally add positive pressure on top of the spring so if you have a 7lb spring and add 7lb to top of spring it will take 14lb to open the gate "in theory" obviously you need to set it up with a gauge on bench 1st using a regulated air supply you also need a solenoid to enable either setting stage 1 = 7psi boost "no pressure on top spring" stage 2 = 14psi boost "pressure on top spring"

Nice Job does he mask the parts up or did you ?

Found this handy guide to checking charging system https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/g299dyizjsl4cdcede5l5/Troubleshooting-3P-PMG-RR.pdf?rlkey=96b17bjp5nvextrplz9lga8tg&e=1&dl=0

i have loads of bolts etc accumulated over the years so use them to do 1st build then note down all the sizes i need for final assembly and get them from my local engineers merchant

Nope Acewell perfect 12k max

Oil Boilers have 2 wire Alternator

Go back to basic's "RTFM" With ignition on do you have live feed to coils .. Do you have a spark when turning engine over ... NO to either of above = investigate why not as said above manuals are available on web CDI curve's make little to no difference to an engine starting "it may run like a bag of poo but it should start and idle" GSXF 1100 "powerscreen" wiring diagram attached enjoy

Side Mount just to be different

A cylinder head man told me its a pain but 1 ) having a few caps to try helps 2) remove rocker shafts "you don't want to be fighting valve springs" 3) find a cap that lets cam turn with a little resistance or even locks it with no other caps in place "you may get lucky and find one that feels right" 4) grinding paste on cap on the cam in its position 5) lots of test fits and patience Stewart Crane "Warpspeed Racing" has done a few race heads with damaged caps in the past And Oil Boiler cam caps seem to be easier than air cooled to swop as i,ve done it

I,m sure i have 1100k in my dragbike but would need to jack it up to take the weight off to measure them

Personally accessibility is often down to the way you assemble something If you fitted the Plenum 1st "without the alternator fitted to motor" then access to cap screws with an allen key would not be that hard.. If using the OEM head feeds you may want to fit the bottom fitting to cases but leave the head ends free until you have the plenum bolted up "depts on hand size and dexterity" Fitting the alternator "with the clutch cove off" prior to adding the headers and up-pipe .. i always find the two inside bolts on the pipe to turbo flange the most annoying to tighten up on an oil boiler set up relying on the one short spanner jammed against the pipe trick to tighten them .. i have a draw full off bent / twisted / shortened spanners allen key's etc Back in the day jaguar car,s used to provide a curved 1/2" and 9/16" spanner in the toolkit "so you could remove the starter motor"

My bad Should have looked in manwell 1st Black & yellow