Gixer1460

Gotta say the 'cheap' one look like a bloody good rip off imitation! For £60 its got to be worth a punt - the pivot adjustment stated on the 'real' one is huge - nearly 10mm - that should make a considerable difference in feel?

How can it be the same lever? One is cable, one is hydraulic! The master / slave ratio is the determinant

Wasn't a dig and sorry for the messed up arm which probably isn't helping with needing a lighter clutch - it may be a bit better but not enough for you? If you take ALL the slack out of this type of mechanism you'll burn plates - the plates need to expand when hot ...... no slack and it'll drag! A GSXR may have 4 springs against 6 of the GSX but it also has 2 more plates and handles 25 - 30 more HP - this may indicate a GSX clutch is over sprung?

Even wheel makers get it wrong - I had a bearing in a Marvic Penta wheel destroy itself on the dyno - when I eventually butchered the chain adjusters to get the wheel and axle out, it seems in their infinite wisdom they used an aluminium bearing spacer ! ! ! MUPPETS!

'Mixture screww with broken tip' - is the tip still there blocking the hole?

Because going full control really needs a crank trigger with more resolution than 4 odd teeth. The Dyna solution is a bit ghetto / simplistic but it works if you accept the limitations - I believe it group fires two cylinder injectors - like wasted spark but with fuel!

Its a nice 'pretty' solution that seems not to have been correctly executed! I'm guessing a 14mm master would work better if all the other slack levers and linkages were removed. The GSXR solution of through the shaft works directly - no slack. With the above arrangement you have potential slack in the slave to clevis, clevis to lever, lever shaft rack to pusher rack and pusher rack to thrust bearing and hub so you end up having to create more movement to take up the tolerances. Answer is become a gorilla and / or grow some man fingers. Alternatively, lighter springs and a lock up may ease the pain!

Can be simple or harder - your choice! Simple = Megasquirt for fuel + Dyna 2000 for trigger and sparks. Will need a TPS and a coolant temp sensor, fuel pump and regulator. Harder = Standalone ECU + trigger wheel + TPS, Coolant temp sensor, fuel pump and regulator. Talk to Arttu - he's done everything from cheap ghetto upwards!

Possibly an ex race bike so never road registered hence Q plate. May also explain 'matching numbers' - plenty of 'shady' stuff happened / s in the race world - the supply of engines to be blown up isn't bottomless LOL!

Personally i'd fit 19 row std. width as a minimum - especially if its mounted elsewhere other than the front! Others may have got away with 16 row but these motors need good oil - no need to cook it unnecessarily!

Now that does look hideous!

Wouldn't worry too much about oil pressure - these engines generate sooooo much that approx a third is bled off straight away. Pressure drop is usually fast enough not to spot by which time the shells are toast anyway.

Surprised your ignition is still functional! Dyna Orange coils are 1.5 ohm each so they are wired in series i'm guessing - lower volts but 3.0 ohm total resistance?

Problem with K&N's or similar filters is non compatibility with Ram pipes - the foamies are about the only thing that will stretch over!

Most stock cooler brackets have rubber somewhere in their construction, as said its there for a reason - solid mounts = split coolers!

Personally - if the bike is running how you want and you are happy with it - DON'T FIDDLE WITH IT! Certainly don't fit a free flow filter to try and cure a minor cough / flat spot and then ruin it everywhere else! It may only need the needle dropping or raising one notch or 1/2 a notch even.

They'd be in the ice so no effect - if there was ice, the bowls would have split first.

Unlikely to make any difference! If its a single cylinder problem it rules out 'shared' components like coils and ign. electronics. I would look at spark plug, plug lead and cap then a carb blockage. First check is swop 2 and 3 plug leads around - if misfire moves then confirms leads problem. Then swop low tension side wires from 1/4 to 2/3 and vice versa (with plug leads in correct places) - if it moves then it could be coil or the ecu. If you have the old coils, swop back and if the problem persists then it does look like the big money items, if not then dicky coil!

Its horses for courses! A turbo has relatively long, gentle spool with a big rush - ideal for road use. Racing turbo's requires being an animal on the throttle to build boost before launch or race is over before turbo spools. Simple nitrous is an instant whack - press button and power goes from whatever to whatever + 60hp virtually instantly - nitrous on a dyno is a larf as it'll shock the wheel into wheelspin. Racing nitrous is still a hit - even the progressives as you maybe starting with only 25% and ramping to 100% in 2 seconds but that could be 60hp upto 240hp increase in 2 seconds - its a rush! Turbo's are acknowledged as being 'softer' on an engine but over an 1/8th mile very little will beat a sorted nitrous bike.

And PLEASE don't ask 'that' question!

Thats a wierd one!! Can't even imagine how they got split? Don't think they are removable as not a service item! As a temporary check / fix how about sealing the cracks with epoxy then see if adjustment is easier / has more effect?

Yeah - slipped cam timing won't have helped! I had a engine with cam one tooth out, with a turbo and we couldn't work out why it wouldn't make more than stock - surprising the difference 1 tooth makes - 125hp one day - 200+ the next! Not doubting your abilities but those screws just 'don't come loose' if done right and with the correct goo. You also mentioned other bolts / screws coming loose on the dyno. I think your torque wrench needs checking / throwing away. I've mostly only ever used my 'wrist torque wrench' and things usually stay where they were till the next time.

What type of turbo is it again - can't be bothered to trawl through 12 pages? I think your assumption is probably correct.

True - provided that the coil earth isn't also connected internally to the body / mountings of the soli. If they were and you connected reversed you'd be connecting the switched 12v straight to ground - short / smoke / sparks!

Might add that unless it's a split type ie two pieces you be buggered as the header pipe end is usually flared to sit on gasket and the collar gets clamped via the aluminium casting - the collar not designed to come off unless the header separates into 4 and you unwrap it!