Gixer1460

If it's now submerged it can't be fuel starvation so I'd suggest either debris ingestion and / or bearing failure. So QED - pump is wankered! I had a brand spankers new Bosch die after about an hour total running - PITA!

Depends what 'limited budget' is could be £500 or £5000 and what you want as an end result? For most applications, std. rods - IF NOT OVER REV'D - will be fine to 200 odd hp. Oil flow problems are generally what kills rods - keep it flowing, with pressure and cool it well! Find someone respected for these heads to do the work - the head work must respect what else is being done - bore, cams, carbs, exhaust etc. If its more a road bike than track tool then try and keep full length valve guides - shorter guides good for flow but poor longevity. Don't get ports carved out bigger, just smooth them with improved short turn flow, 30/26 valves will help but added cost, stg 1 or 2 cams will add to the party sometimes more than headwork! I'd go with JE or Wosner pistons - Wiseco tend to use up rings quickly IMO. Do not use a DOT head with kit pistons as CR will be through the roof! Busa pistons do not make good NA pistons although could work with a DOT head. The 'M' pattern head is actually the best for flow but cam choices are limited - the shim spitting is only a problem on high rpm motors. My turbo motor still has shims - i'm not worried!

Has this ever run in this configuration? Don't understand the neutral switch reference as these usually have one wire that is just grounded in neutral. Busa's had two wire switches so ecu knew what gear was used for timing retard - can't see why its fitted to a teapot though!

Power gains will be proportionally equal 750 - 1100 but the 1100 will be torquey monster without the top end rush - depends what you want and how you ride!

bloody hell fire - i usually buy a whole rack for that sort of folding!

Yeah - chemical metal works - probably regular epoxy will if you roughen the surfaces!

You must be young not to have heard of a Dyna 2000 LOL! No offence intended but they've been around since the early 90's and yes they are worth having on a bike with modified engine, sometimes used as option if std CDI on the fritz. I've had 3 and fitted loads more. Work best with Dyna Grey coils and fine with Green or stock coils as well.

How the poor old GSX750 got dragged into the conversation - it's go nowt to do with the OP. GS750 primaries were and indeed still are (or replicas) used in drag motors mainly high rpm Prostock units to ease clutch tuning. Graham Dance still uses one of these geared cranks in his SSB probably due to the years of data he's got.

You are indeed an anorak - but dammit correct as usual! You really do need another hobby! LOL!

Wasteful but effective for a GSX motor.

High frequency vibration sucks !

Depends on the gauge but a 0 reading, hot is not unknown. I think 5-6psi is Suzuki spec @ idle and tops out at about 20psi @ 5,0000 rpm although as a 750 it should have a bit more due to better ratio pump gears.

Back to basics - do regular bulbed indicators work correctly - don't think they do - check. An LED flasher unit will flash both 'normal' and LED lights so thats the first thing to check. Disconnect the dash flasher till the mains are working. Once they are, then do the mod like the Trumpet diagram. Also make sure polarity or lights are correct - LED's won't light if reversed!

Injection tanks - bike or cars tend to all have a baffled sump arrangement located below the general tank bottom level. With low fuel sloshing around it could be allowing the pump to suck air whilst braking say, with no fuel the pressure decays almost instantly hence the stall. Cavitation is certainly a possibility - pumps i've played with have 12+mm inlets and some even have a separate break tank to ensure a constant reservoir of fuel served by a separate LP pump. I think either run with at least 1/2 full tank or add a sump which will help both internal or external pumps?

Glad to be of service - thank you!

Well at least you've improved the filter situation - other than that - same old, same old! LOL!

If you've got the 'Mickey Mouse' ears gaskets cock about - oil from the head gets into the plug wells and drains out of a drilling just above the exhaust ports. Obviously something in the oil delivery / return system has be disturbed / assembled incorrectly as it doesn't seem to be draining from the head. No rags down the chain tunnel for instance - has been known!

Did you change the rotor as well ? If there are sparks and fuel, it will run - maybe not well but it will run!

You may have to trim the ignition timing due to the compression hike. And a couple of points up on the mains MAY be required to cool thing down a bit!

And if you do it this way - a dab of ATV sealant on the 'mickey mouse' seals etc helps stick em in place whilst squeezing through the gaps!

Depends on the chassis - gotta remember this chassis was built 30-35 odd years ago to carry a biggish lump with maybe 100hp. Yes, an 1100/1200 fits and it could handle the stock 125hp ok but then loading a bullet with 150-160hp that can't necessarily be used effectively except in a straight line whereas the 750 is compact and good for 110+hp which could be used harder and more often to make a happier, more wholesome package - that's just my thoughts though!

Why didn't you just helicoil the plug threads? Head nut torque = 25.5 - 29ft lbs (I would usually add a few more) M6 head bolt 6 - 8.5ft lbs and M6 cyl. nut 5 - 8ft lbs Valve Clearance = Inlet 0.10 - 0.15mm Exhaust 0.18 - 0.23

Seen a couple with loose insert / center and other than sometimes a light 'knock' on clutch take up, didn't seem to have any effect!

Never had a vacuum tap leak...........maybe i've been lucky NAH i'm not! Even if the tap does have an 'Off' position I rarely use it!

Looks like (from the 2nd photo) a 25/30mm pipe between the collector and the WG flange? If it is - definitely too small, should be ideally about the same as the outlet dump pipe. A 90 deg connection isn't best.... a curving connection from higher up, curving down into the flange may help? And a 38mm Tial should be good for controlling near 300hp