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Jelly

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About Jelly

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  • Birthday 03/30/1983

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  1. Common fault on an F, had it too (and yes the plates are fooked). Use the search, you will certainly get some info on it.
  2. Start on the tap, work your way down.
  3. Which carbs/engine/etc? What do you mean with a 'rebuild'? First idea: Is the vacuum line connected from the tap to one of the inlets, is the vacuum still working? Connect some transparent hose to the tap and suck the vacuum on on, see if it pours some petrol.
  4. I picked it up in 2015 in IJmuiden from a guy who had it for 20 years... And sold it last month on to @Cunnerz77As he will ride it more than I will. The article might come from a BSH issue around '95-'97 I might have a spare reg/rec for a GSX engine, not sure if its ok, will have a look today.
  5. Another copy and paste from the past... Arcticle from Superbike magazine 199 something. Supertune Suzuki GSX-R1100 It's ThuperTune time again, folks, and this month it's Suzuki's GSX-R1100. This is the bike that started and wrecked more tuning careers than anything else in the history of the universe. Remember, all prices quoted here are inclusive VAT. The GSX-R1100 has only had three major engine overhauls compared to the GSX-R750's five. Phee-ew! There's still a whole shedload of stuff to get through and only five pages to do it in, so V&M and Performoto were the tuners assigned to the task. Remember, the GSX-R1100 has been raced and dragged more times than anyone's had hot dinners. 300bhp and 1400cc are possible, but on SuperTune we're going to stick with stuff that works for the road at the smallest possible price. Well, nitrous doensn't cost that much... Company: V&M Racing Contact: Mark Hindle Where: Rochdale, GB Phone: (01706) 840066 1986-1989: GSX-R1100 G,H,J models 1052cc, 34 mm carbs "On any of the old 1100R motors the valves will be more likely than not worn. First thing to do is get a compression check, then a valve job and cylinder head clean-up if you want decent power gains. Fit a Stage 3 Dynojet kit and individual K&N filters for the induction. The 34mm carbs are okay, but there wasn't airbox technology then that there is now. Cobra still do the best full exhaust system for the R, though any good 4-1 is alright." "If you want it to go like a rocket, fit 36mm Mikuni flatslides - lovely. After that you're looking at an 1109cc Wiseco big-bore kit. We'll do a ride in, ride out service for customers, and if you want the carbs to go with that size you want 38mm flatslides. Even lovelier. Good 15% power increase right across the rev-range with that lot, easy. We also offer a full range of camshafts for the early GSX-Rs, from full race to street tune. Horsepower=pound notes with the 1100s. For the road, we'd re-profile the standard cams. For the serious boys there's a 1216cc big-bore kit available, but that's as big as it goes and there's no room for error." "Compression? Don't go above 12:1 or you're asking for trouble with today's fuel. A 5º ignition advancer crispens up the low and midrange, and Dyna coils and Taylor ignition leads replace the standard crummy items and ensure a big, fat spark reaches the plugs. We'd then fit a kevlar clutch with stronger springs to take the extra power, which jumps from the standard 105bhp to 115bhp with decent Stage 1 work." G, H, J model mods Dynojet kit £74 K&N filters £65 Cobra exhaust £425 36mm flatslides £525 38mm flatslides £559 1109cc ride, ride out conversion £600 Re-profiled cams £195 5º ignition advancer £42 Dyna coils (pair) £25 Taylor ignition leads £32 Barnett kevlar clutch £120 Compression check £10 1989-1991: GSX-R1100 K,L,M models 1127cc, 36mm carbs, 40mm carbs (M) "Most powerful engine of the lot. Engine makes 120bhp standard, heaps of torque. With race exhaust and good jetting, we get 146bhp at the back wheel out of these. 36mm Mikunis are a good set of carbs, but make sure they're derestricted before you start any work. Stage 1 and Stage 3 induction kits both work well, and you don't lose any midrange with a Stage 3 kit. You're looking at a 5% power gain with a Stage 3 kit over de Stage 1 kit, but it costs a bit more and takes more setting-up. Exhaust have got to be Vance & Hines, Yoshimura or Skorpion. We try and steer people away from putting open cans on the standard twin muffler system - it causes headaches. "Big-bore kits start at 1186 on these engines and go as big as 1260, but that's real big - no room for error. Thirty-six mil carbs can cope with the bigger bore no worries, and we 'd recommend a Stage 1 headjob to go with the big-bore conversion. The heads respons well on these motors - I've seen 7bhp just from a headflow itself. Bigger valves are available, but the standard sizes are enough for the road." "GSX-R boys are real fanatics, and we can take the 1127 motor as far as they want. Stage 3 headflow, bigger valves, race valve springs, radical cams, flatslide carbs - it's all just a question of money. We do drop-in cams for the K and L, but moving on to the M-model with 40mm carbs and they're nothing but problems with Stage 3 induction kits. Stick to Stage 1 - the airbox is fine - since the carbs are too big for the engine and you'll lose heaps of midrange with little top-end gain if you fit Stage 3. Just de-restricting the carbs properly gains you 9bhp. If you want to make an M-model fly, fit the 41mm Keihin flatslides. You've got to learn how to use them properly and they cost, but boy do they work. NOS nitrous kits are available - we prefer to fit them ourselves - and don't fart about with K or L forks. Just send them straight to Ron Williams at Maxton. A 5º igntion advancer crispens the low-end power, or try a Vance & Hines Powerpack, which lets you change the ignition curve to suit the tune of your GSX-R. Yoshimura and Skorpion are the pipes to go for the M." K, L, M model mods Dynojet kit £111 K&N filter £48 Stage 3 filters £73 Skorpion pipe £593 Yoshimura pipe £325 1186cc kit £295 Stage 1 headflow £225 Stage 3 headflow £400 155bhp tune package £1,500 Drop-in cams £195 De-restrict carbs £50 41mm Keihins £825 Nitrous kit £456 V&H Powerpack (igniter) £325 1992-1995: GSX-R1100 WN,WP,WR models 1074cc, 40mm carbs "It seems pretty strong, but we've not worked on as many as the oil-cooled engine. There's no stage 3 Dynojet kit available for this bike, so life's much easier and the airbox is very good, anyway. If you want to go past Stage 1, you'll have to fit 41mm Keihins straight away. so tough. Skorpion, Vance & hines and Cobra exhuast systems all work well on these models, and the Wiseco big-bore kit takes it out to 1117cc and 12:1 compression. Nice power, but we just fitted a WP with the pistons from an 1127 GSX-R. Worked very well - we estimate 160bhp." "The standard heads are very good on the watercooled engines, and you can fit the 38mm carbs from a GSX-R750L. Not as small as the 36mm carb, not too big like the 40mm carb, the work well. A 5º ignition advancer again helps in the low to midrange, pulls you that little bit harder out of the corners. Other than that, the usual GSX-R stuff about money=power applies." Watercooled GSX-R mods Stage 1 Dynojet kit £111 K&N filter £28 41mm Keihins £825 1117cc Wiseco kit £295 Stage 1 headflow £225 5º ignition advancer £42 Company: Performoto Contact: Jon Bickerdike Where: London Phone: (0181) 880 3420 1986-1989: GSX-R1100 G,H,J models 1052cc, 34 mm carbs "With the old GSX-Rs, we've consistently had good results with Yoshimura exhausts. They're always good for GSX-Rs, from steel to titanium systems. We also do an aluminium respraying service which stops all steel exhausts corroding. Use a Stage 3 Dynojet kit and Ramair filters - they're just easier to use on these bikes because they're foam and flexible. The 38mm carbs from the GSX-R750L are brilliant. Go straight on using 750 manifolds, and take very little setting-up. But be careful of bodged carbs. Run a 5º ignition advancer, but only on stock-ish engines. You'll run hot on highly tuned motors." "We do two big-bore kits. The 1109, which is easy, and an 1196cc kit, which is a lot more work. Goes bloody well, but the customer needs to bring us the block from a K or L engine for that one. You'll see 130bhp easy with that conversion, though. Heads will definitely benefit from a gas-flow and the valve seats need re-cutting, but they've got to be set-up right. Cam wear can be a problem on old 1100 motors, so we send ours to Kent to be re-ground and with a more powerful profile. Oil? We use Rock Oil Fully Synthetic." "We also do fitting kits to convert Slingshot wheels on the older GSX-Rs, as well as Nissin brake conversions for decent stopping and our own fork rebuild. We use more oil in the forks and change the spring rate with spacers. Use an EMC or Öhlins rear shock in the back, and off you go." G, H, J model mods Yoshimura exhausts £299-£1,100 Stage 3 Dynojet kit £74 Ramair filters £55 GSX-R750L 38mm carbs £100 38mm carb fitting £50 5º ignition advancer £40 1109 or 1195cc kits £290 Fitting 1195cc kit £330 Stage 1 head/valve tune £250 Kent cams £120 Rock Oil (4 litres) £22 Slingshot wheel conversion £110 Nissin brake conversion £110 EMC rear shock £299 Fork modifications £60 1989-1991: GSX-R1100 K,L,M models 1127cc, 36mm carbs, 40mm carbs (M) "40mm carbs are a bit big for M-motors, so if you're leaving it stock fit the 38mm 750L carbs. They're blinding carbs, we fit them to everything. K motor is best GSX-R motor, ports are good size, it's strong and very powerful. 140bhp is not beyond the bounds of belief just with a pipe and jetkit. 150bhp is easy and you can keep it rideable, too. Fit a Stage 1 kit for an easy life. Stage 3 works about 5% better but takes more setting-up. Use a Yoshimura exhaust with a 'quiet' rave baffle, or use a Cyclone system if you're going racing. Again, a 5º ignition advancer frees-up the bottom end, and the 750L 38mm carbs go straight on. Dialling in the stock cams is worth 5bhp alone." "An 1186cc big-bore kit goes straight in, but the 1216 option isn't recommended for the street. The 40mm carbs of the M respond well to the bigger bore conversions, but it's worth going to Stage 3 on the induction if you're hogging it out. One thing I've noticed about all the 36mm-40mm GSX-R carbs is that they're very sensitive to float height - make sure it's right." "There's nothing wrong with the K-model frame, it's all the suspension's fault. Maxton do a top job on the forks, and we do a ride-height adjuster for the rear. Our rear sets are trick and save 1.5 kg off the weight, and use a Sprint steering damper because the standard ones are rubbish. Ferodo Supersport pads are the business, but the master cylinder is naff on the K and earlier GSX-Rs. Use an RC30 number. We fit the K swingarm onto the M, which quickens the steering no end, and a dead sexy Brembo rear brake set-up which saves another 1.5kg of un-sprung weight. Crashed yer bike? No problem, we do a beam-frame conversion using H30 alloy. 7/11 conversions are a straightforward, and our engine covers are unbreakable, unlike the stock items." K, L, M model mods Dynojet kit £111 K&N filter £48 Dialed-in cams £100 Yoshimura exhausts £299-£1,100 1196cc kit, ride in, ride out £290 1186 conversion £540 Ride-height adjuster £110 Shot-peened rods £150 Rear sets £180 Sprint damper £110 RC30 master cylinder £130 Brembo rear brake £190 Beam frame kit £2,500 7/11 conversion £150 Crash covers £85 1992-1995: GSX-R1100 WN,WP,WR models 1074cc, 40mm carbs "They designed the motor round a bigger bore and higher compression, and then de-tuned it. Very odd. These water-cooled engines love compression, and 13:1 works well on the street. These motors don't necessarily need a Dynojet kit - we play around with the mains and move the needle on this model. Fit a K&N filter but leave the rest of the intake alone. Replacement exhausts are a bit of a bugger on the watercoolers - Termignoni is the only one I've seen fitting properly" "Skim the head for more mid-range, and fit a 1192cc kit if you want serious dollops more torque. The standard cams need to be re-timed, but a Yoshimura inlet cam, used with the standard exhaust cam, works very well. You could try the cams from one of the water-cooled GSX-R750s. They go straight in, help it rev all the way. Leave the ignition alone on these bikes, and fit a Kayaba rear shock for better ride quality." Watercooled GSX-R mods 13:1 Head skim and Stage 1 gasflow £250 K&N airfilter £28 Performoto carb tune £70 1192cc kit £290 Yoshimura inlet cam £200 GSX-R750W cams £50 Kayaba shock £300 Termignoni exhaust £730
  6. I was working my way back through the archives of OSS and stumbled across this info... Thought I posted/pasted it. Some info from Superbike Magazine 1995. Supertune Suzuki GSX-R750 I hate you all. You buy millions of GSX-R750s and cause me and three GSX-R tuners (PDQ Developments, V&M Racing and Specials) massive headaches. All the Stage 1 tuning tips for all the GSX-R models. Bastards, bastards, bastards...! The GSX-R's got a choosy, fussy motor that 'll kick out 10 more bhp with one mod and lose 10bhp with another. Most guilty are the carburettors, from the 29mm flatslides it started life with to the gargantuan 38mm jobs it uses today. Whip off the airbox or stick an exhaust on by itslef and you'll muck everything up... maybe. It's all different on each of the models, so read the section which applies to you and act on it. Company: PDQ Developments Contact: Larry Webb Where: Slough, Berkshire, GB Phone: (01628) 667644 1985-1987: F,G & H models "The carbs will be fucked if you buy one of these, guaranteed. In fact, check that the engine is basically sound on these older models before doing any tuning. For the early GSX-R750s, use 750J/K carbs from a breaker. They're 36mm and the best GSX-R carbs ever made." "Whether you're using the original 29mm carbs or a set of 36mm CVs, run a Stage 3 Dynojet kit with individual twin filters. You have to go to Stage 3 with the bigger carbs anyway because the venturis are too big for the old airbox." "Early GSX-Rs respond very well to a decent quality pipe. You want a 4-2-1 system, and Micron still does a fitment. Hindle also does a full system which works very well, but it's mild steel so needs to be looked after. You could even try retro-fitting the original exhaust system from a 750L with a slip-on can and that should work well when set up properly. All of the GSX-Rs need dyno time to make them work well. You can just bolt stuff on, but it'll never give the best results." "With the pipe on and the Stage 3 jet kit with 36mm carbs, you're looking at a 10-12% power increase (94bhp) at peak, and a much livelier mid-range. All GSX-Rs eat coils, so on early ones they definitely need checking or replacing. It's also the only bike ever made that needed an ignition advancer. The standard ignition is pretty woolly and an adjustable Simms & Rohm item will fill in the mid-range and give you better throttle response right across the rev-range." "Handling? 750J rear wheel goes straight in, as will the front end from any of the GSX-R series. The steering bearings are identical on all models, so there's no reason why you shouldn't stick in upside-downers if you like. The standard 750F/G wheels are so weak that you can flex the spokes with your hand. Best to change them, I think. A 17mm master cylinder (1000 Exup) for the brakes will transform the standard brakes and use SBS-RQ pads for maximum breaking." 1988-1989: J & K models "Nothing wrong with standard carbs on this model. Keep the airbox: it's the air filter that's the problem. The working filter area is too small, so stick in a K&N replacement. This will flow more air and is fully washable. Use it in conjunction with a stage 1 Dynojet kit for the carbies. If your header pipes are in good order, there's no reason why you can't stick on a pair of carbon cans to the standard exhaust. The look good, cost loads and will take a bit of setting up on the dyno, so you're probably better go for a Skorpion or Sebring system. The Sebrings are good middle-range exhausts which don't mess up the power curve. Yoshimura, especially the Duplex range, work well on GSX-Rs, but they're expensive. I'd stick a Barnett kevlar clutch in there if the standard clutch is getting tired. If a rider wants to bring us his GSX-R and a donor motor, we could do a 750/1100 engine swap in a week, time allowing." "Oil-cooled GSX-Rs make a lot of heat and they don't like it. Some of the mega-tuned GSX-Rs have bigger head coolers than the main radiator. Good synthetic oil is a must - Motul or Gemini. The 750Js and Ks were top handlers - get Ron Williams at Maxton (0928-74031) to advise on the suspension if it's getting tired." 1990-1991: L & M models "These need more thought to the carburation. They've got fucking huge carburettors - too big and incredibly sensitive. Give it serious thought if you're thinking of removing the airbox, because getting rid of the 5-6,000 rpm flatspot can be very difficult indeed. Go for a Stage 1 Dynojet kit. Slide speed is all important in these later carbs, but go with the smallest holes in the slides. If you drill them out to their biggest, it makes the flatspot even worse." "For exhausts, fit Skorpion, Termignoni or Yoshimura systems. If you've taken the carburation to Stage 1 only, you can get away with a slightly cheaper exhaust, like a Micron. There are good gains to be had at the top end with a Stage 3 induction kit and it'll take you over 100bhp easily. The trade-off is with the mid-range and the flatspot. If you rev it everywhere, go for it." "From a handling point of view, these models were the best. The steering dampers were crap, though. Too heavily damped, too crude. Change'em for a Sprint or Öhlins system. You need to check steering head bearings, because the bottom race absorbs water and rots." 1992-1995: WN, WP & WR models "Much the same as the L and M models, just with a waterjacket. For the carburation, there's Stage 1 Dynojet kits only, no Stage 3 available. We've had the airboxes off and we've tried but there's no gains to be had with individual filters. Same carbs, so same deal. They're very sensitive to changes. The header pipes on these bikes are pretty good, so use them and stick a Johnson or Quill can on the back." Company: V&M Racing Contact: Mark Hindle Where: Rochdale, GB Phone: (01706) 840066 1985-1987: F,G & H models "The 29mm flatslides on the early models were good little carbs but, more than likely, they'll be goosed by now. Either overhaul them or stick on the carbs from a later GSX-R: the 36mm carbs from the 750J will probably fit. Whip off the airbox, install a Stage 3 Dynojet kit and fit individual K&N filters. It's not worth messing about with a Stage 1 jet kit." "For the exhaust, get a full Cobra system. We've always dealt with these and they've consistently given good results. They're even semi road legal and, used with the Stage 3 induction kit, will guarantee a 12-15% power increase at peak(95bhp). To get 100bhp on the early bikes would take a serious amount of money - around £1,200 - so for most people it's not worth it." "We do drop-in cams which increase mid-range power by some 6%, but you'll need to let us dial them in properly for maximum benefit. After the Stage 3 induction tuning and exhaust, a Vance & Hines ignition advancer will crisp the acceleration and give you maybe 1bhp in the mid-range. If you really want a healthy mid-range kick, fit a 771cc Wiseco big-bore kit. The bigger bore and higher compression ratio works really well on the early GSX-Rs. Fit a set of Dyna coils, because the originals will almost certainly be knackered and you'll cure all sorts of ills with the new coils alone." 1988-1989: J & K models "Never was the best thing to tune. Great bike out of the box, but the short stroke motor just didn't work so well. The motor's very peaky, so you'll get better power increases with a Stage 3 Dynojet kit and individual K&N airfilters. The 750J doesn't like aftermarket road legal exhausts, and you've got to go for a full-race item. Again, we'd say use either a Yoshimura or Cobra system - they give decent results on this motor." "You can cheat a bit and just stick a full-race system on by itself with no jetting changes. If the bike's well sorted, you could get a 10% power increase just with a pipe alone. Earlier GSX-Rs always tended to run a bit rich, anyway. Don't stick open cans on the standard 4-2 system, it'll cause serious problems. We were working with Heron Suzuki on the 1989 J-racers for Whitham and it took us an age to get them right." 1990-1991: L & M models "If ever the GSX-R peaked, it was here. Everything works well together - 38mm carbs, much better head design, slightly higher compression. It's been properly tuned by the factory from the previous model. Stage 1 tuning is easy: a Yoshimura Duplex exhaust, Stage 3 Dynojet kit and individual K&N air filters. We've seen 116bhp from Ls and Ms with those mods alone: brilliant!" "There's nothing actually wrong with the airbox design and, if you want to keep it for road use, stick a Stage 1 jet kit and replacement K&N filter in and you'll see 105bhp (3bhp more than a stock 1995 model). Either a Yoshimura or Cobra race can, used in conjunction with a Stage 3 jet kit, will give you an 8% power increase. Bung on a can by itself and that figure is still going to be around 6%." "If you want big, big power gains, fit a full Yoshimura exhaust and a set of 38m,m Mikuni flatslides. these carbs just pump so much air and fuel into the engine that a 24bhp power increase at peak is totally possible. Again, fit a 5 degree ignition advancer to crispen the acceleration, and our drop-in cams should add another 6% to that power increase." 1992-1995: WN, WP & WR models "Stage 1 Dynojet kit in the airbox, K&N replacement filter, Yoshimura slip-on can. That'll give you a guaranteed 110bhp with more to come, no trouble at all. Skorpion does a system for the water-cooled GSX-Rs and the results I've seen from them are excellent, Worth getting if you can afford it." "These bikes are pretty peaky, so you don't need an ignition advancer as with the other models. They run much leaner than earlier GSX-Rs, so an open exhaust by itself is a bad idea. Run the engine on four-star - that goes for all the GSX-R series - but other than that, most of the tuning mods are the same as the M model." "For handling, Pirelli Dragons are the tyres to go for every time. Try Ron Williams at Maxton for suspension problems. Anything he sells you is worth it." Company: Specials (Glasgow) Contact: Geraint Short Where: Scotland Phone: (0141) 954 4225 1985-1987: F,G & H models "Stage 1 Dynojet is redundant on these models, because the airbox has to go if you want more power. It's too restrictive. Fit a Stage 3 jet kit and individual K&N filters. The carbs aren't too bad - work well on GS750s, actually!" "For exhausts, it's pot luck on the early GSX-Rs. Some give good results, some don't. Stick with American race pipes and stay away from european systems as a rule of thumb. Vance & Hines and D&D systems give the best results we've seen." "In the engine, make sure the valve clearances are spot-on. GSX-Rs are very susceptible to over-tight valves and it puts two power glitches in the curve if they are." "Ignition advancers work well on these bikes. The standard ignition puts a glitch in at 6,000rpm and, combined with flatslide carbs and an open pipe, it can turn into an almighty flatspot. A 4º advancer will cure that. New coils can be good for 2bhp, and we'll stick 8-10bhp on to peak power with these Stage 1 modifications. There will be no increase in mid-range, though, because of the carbs." 1988-1989: J & K models "These are much harder to set up, but I prefer the short-stroke motor. You can't get power without revs, and this motor really revs! Blueprinting is one of the safest ways of getting more power without stressing anything, and it'll tranform one of these earlier engines." "With a Stage 3 Dynojet kit, you run the risk of compromising low-down (0-5,000 rpm) power. It gives good top-end gains, but the better the full-race system you have (Yoshimura, D&D), the more top-endy the bike will be. By removing the airbox, you then make that even more revvy. Balls-out people won't care, but those who want low-end power should fit a Stage 1 kit and a more road-orientated pipe, like a Micron. Fit an ignition advancer on the J, but not the K. We've had 108 bhp from a K fitted with just a Stage 3 jetkit and a full D&D race pipe." 1990-1991: L & M models "Don't bother with ignition advancer on these - a Stage 3 induction kit is way to go. Same rules as on the J & K, but Stage 3 on these works with fewer problems and gives even better gains. Use it with a Yoshimura, D&D or Micron full system for maximum peak horsepower, or a Dynalite or Quill can if you don't want a full exhaust. But you're not going to have quite as much at peak with a can as with a full system." "Ls and Ms respond well to a pipe alone with no carburation changes. They'll hold 9bhp over stock at peak, but the mid-range loses 3bhp in two places (where the over-tight valve timing makes a difference). GSX-Rs must have synthetic oil which makes it run 4 degree lower, and that will produce a little more power. Use carburettor heat shields to keep induction charge cool." 1992-1995: WN, WP & WR models "There isn't a Stage 3 kit available for these. Stage 1 works well, but the main jet size is critical. It's a leaner burning engine than before, and lowdown response from 2,000 rpm is affected by the main jet. The thing is, don't go for too big a main jet: it needs to be in the 120-ish mark, otherwise it's just too damn big. We end up with 118-120s." "After that, fit a K&N replacement filter which flows 20% more air and an open can. Again, Dynalite and Quill do the best in our opinion and give good power gains. I've had 114bhp from a WN just with a Stage 1 kit and an open can."
  7. An ET. Going to relocate the spring.
  8. Haha it turned into a game of guessing. What I mean is that the long sidestand on the slight tip of the bike folds up. Moving the spring is something to consider.
  9. Yes, of course, stay down. Because of the strong spring they snap up immediately when you move a bike around. Man-the-fuck-up is not an answer I'm looking after though.
  10. Right, as some of you might know the old buses have very 'spring happy' sidestands, compared to newer bikes and oilcooled ones. You really have to put your foot down to put it in its place. Is there a common mod on these to remove the spring so they will stay up?
  11. Race Component Development @vizman Mates of Racefit and I believe also Lucky 7. Nice, but fookin expensive parts.
  12. Read the article, and make sure that when using pod filters to connect some 30cm long lines to the vents in order to have it running correctly.
  13. If you are posting halve pictures you will get halve answers I believe BST38SS are dual fed, so you need to add a splitter. Vacuum is the one from the inlet rubber. Other pipes are breathers. Did the carbs originally belong on this engine? Sometimes the vacuum comes of the inlet rubber, sometimes of the carb itself. A nice read: https://oldskoolsuzuki.info/archives/531
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