Gixer1460

The oiler engines are better bases for turbo abuse! A GSX will need a decent welded crank or it will twist with the high torque available at lower rpm's. Also the oil system - weak for NA is suspect for turbo use without work. Not many forged pistons as OEM fitment - Busa in a GSX will work and give a super torquey 1428 monster LOL! Deffo use forged pistons - cheaper in long run! Programmable ignition is a bonus as retard on boost stops things going bang or melting!

If #1 was black - dry black or wet black or oily black? If dry - then potentially v. rich. If wet - then potentially leaky float valve / v. rich. If oily then could be leaky valve stem seals or rings. Poor electrics / bad sparks could also cause 1 and 2 as well due to poor combustion. Dirty plugs - particularly NGK's - don't successfully clean up...... so best replace to eliminate that as a symptom!

If 1 and 2 are running then both coils are working and so 3 and 4 will be getting sparks (or see my post above). If you have sparks and you have air and it still ain't running then it ain't getting the last bit - fuel !

If its a pair of un-matched cylinders, its unlikely to be electrical - unless both coils, plug leads, plug caps or spark plugs are duff at same time! Which leaves carbs - everybody's favorite subject - i'd start with a strip and see whats blocked - pilots. idle air, float valve would be candidates!

Valve springs are ground top and bottom so can be fitted any way up. If you have the Duplex header fitted it could be a small leak past the gasket - they can sound ticky and would also allow a lean run on that particular cylinder. Worth a look or swop to another header for elimination purposes?

Orient Express - always served me well and well knowledgeable on old Suzuki's

Pisses me off when sellers can't be arsed to show a correct product picture - those are clearly NOT turbo pistons! And this may have changed but MTC's used to be only available @ 80mm, as this was the entry level 1327cc kit piston and 10:1 CR is a bit tall IMO if you want to run decent boost - and who doesn't!

I'm guessing the headlamp load reduces the current having to be dissipated by the piss poor RR - so not having lights on ALL the time, is bad for your 'lectrics!

Don't knock Fram or HiFlow - both good filters and both available in the US for about 9 bucks delivered to your door via the internet! I've used both together with OEM over the years and the engine can't tell the difference - oil does 6k miles, filter and oil get changed.............................and regular size filter comes off without faffing with exhaust headers!

Why fix what ain't broken!

Probably...............but totally unconnected with the quoted item, namely ram pipes / stacks, It is what it is generally and is fixed for all tuning scenario's.

Don't see why - there are plenty of Suzuki fitted RivNuts applied to GSXR frames so would be an alternative method ! Any method - brazing, welding with TIG / MIG / Stick, bolting or gluing (yes its possible) is only as good as the muppet doing the work!

Steel or aluminium - either is suitable. Steel is probably easiest for welding, ali is maybe best to use bolts. After all, the manufacturers didn't / don't heat treat their frames after welding!

Return position won't help as you surmise - if you can extend the pipe towards the top of the tank - de-aerates it better.

Velo stacks - two theories - None and then added will potentially lean a mixture as the improved linear airflow will allow more inflow so leaning the mixture BUT conversely the improved airflow will allow better draw from the jet, so mixture should stay pretty much the same. Other feature is 'reversion air flow' due to opening / closing of valves - air has velocity and when stopped in the inlet, a pressure wave reverses pushing mixture backwards usually visualised as 'stand-off'. This can be contained by the ram pipes giving richer mixtures (sometimes) All varies with rpm as it moves torque peak around - short = best at high rpm, long for better low end power.

What pistons? If OEM, the rings aren't best placed for a turbo so a new set of rings would likely go the same way. For aftermarket - i'd slump for MTC in a turbo all day long. Mild grind and smooth to inlet won't harm whilst a good polish in the exhaust sometimes pays dividends.

Well something is causing the lite to come on - the switch is pretty unsophisticated and responds to flow rather than pressure.

Did you plug the oil transfer holes between cases and barrels when you added the external lines? If not you've doubled the potential oil flow routes to the head and likely halved the pressure - which for the plain bearing cams is NOT a good thing!

If it's now submerged it can't be fuel starvation so I'd suggest either debris ingestion and / or bearing failure. So QED - pump is wankered! I had a brand spankers new Bosch die after about an hour total running - PITA!

Depends what 'limited budget' is could be £500 or £5000 and what you want as an end result? For most applications, std. rods - IF NOT OVER REV'D - will be fine to 200 odd hp. Oil flow problems are generally what kills rods - keep it flowing, with pressure and cool it well! Find someone respected for these heads to do the work - the head work must respect what else is being done - bore, cams, carbs, exhaust etc. If its more a road bike than track tool then try and keep full length valve guides - shorter guides good for flow but poor longevity. Don't get ports carved out bigger, just smooth them with improved short turn flow, 30/26 valves will help but added cost, stg 1 or 2 cams will add to the party sometimes more than headwork! I'd go with JE or Wosner pistons - Wiseco tend to use up rings quickly IMO. Do not use a DOT head with kit pistons as CR will be through the roof! Busa pistons do not make good NA pistons although could work with a DOT head. The 'M' pattern head is actually the best for flow but cam choices are limited - the shim spitting is only a problem on high rpm motors. My turbo motor still has shims - i'm not worried!

Has this ever run in this configuration? Don't understand the neutral switch reference as these usually have one wire that is just grounded in neutral. Busa's had two wire switches so ecu knew what gear was used for timing retard - can't see why its fitted to a teapot though!

Power gains will be proportionally equal 750 - 1100 but the 1100 will be torquey monster without the top end rush - depends what you want and how you ride!

bloody hell fire - i usually buy a whole rack for that sort of folding!

Yeah - chemical metal works - probably regular epoxy will if you roughen the surfaces!

You must be young not to have heard of a Dyna 2000 LOL! No offence intended but they've been around since the early 90's and yes they are worth having on a bike with modified engine, sometimes used as option if std CDI on the fritz. I've had 3 and fitted loads more. Work best with Dyna Grey coils and fine with Green or stock coils as well.