Gixer1460

I'd just plumb it from the bottom...... cheaper straight fittings and shorter pipe as well!

F**kin excellent - haven't seen one Fubar'd that well for a few years - that underside piston picture is priceless!

'cost no problem' is a bad thing to say talking about nitrous, cause you can / will spend lots! 1. Nitrous doesn't particularly like stock cast pistons....40 - 60hp single stage hits are rolling the dice - it has no affinity for forged pistons either but they can take more abuse. Plug tips will vanish on gas - go hotter and make sure ign. system is up to it. Will make 11 - 10 second bikes. The more compression an engine has the less nitrous it can stand without problems. 2. Next level is a progressive wet system - Schnitz / NLR / WON all do kits and WON Pulsoids are reckoned to be the best for pulsed applications but Trevor is a knob to deal with! These will handle 50 - 150hp additions and need proper engine work - a nitrous is not a NA engine and more like a turbo build. 3. Next is Dry nitrous if you have a fuel injected bike. Less common but capable of serious power. Talk to Brad O'Connor at BTC Moto for installations / kits / advice. 4. Top of the tree are Superstreet / Funnybike installs - Very, Very spendy and highly tempremental. Will eat pistons for no apparent reasons, melt valves, trash cylinder heads / pistons / rods etc. The newest WON REVO systems are very controllable and IMO well worth the money - but you still have to deal with Trevor LOL! Depending on the bike and it's set-up you can go 9's with item #2 but expect to change a plug every few passes, head gaskets, valves and valve seats get nibbled maybe every couple of meetings and potentially a piston or two every year. I crewed with Kev Charman in SSB for two years with his nitrous bandit, then his Compbike (won and came 2nd in ACU, 1st and 2nd years entered) then his FunnyBike (won and came 2nd in ACU, 1st and 2nd years entered) - I didn't tune the nitrous but certainly knew what was going on - good and bad!

'Shut off' as in engine shut off or as in shut throttle? If the latter it is normal if a BOV is fitted (and it should be)...... it releases excess compressed air. If the former I've got no idea - maybe its possessed and needs to see a priest rather than a meknik LOL!

Good find - the 48mm OD does seem an oddball size in the general bearing world but common on bikes!

How fast do you want to go ie times and how much money you got? Once you establish that we can give you directions as the cat can be declothed many ways!

A smaller master cyl. dia. will produce more pressure with downside of longer lever travel - bigger cyl. will move more fluid, so harder lever but less pressure on the caliper pistons - all a balancing act and what you feel happy with!

Can't comment on ultimate stopping power but my set up uses PVM 13" discs, GSXR1000 6 pot Nissins on adapters to put the pads directly central to rotor wear surface, all using an AP master. They have'nt a 'hard lever' feel just very progressive, but I reckon their strong enough to lock at any speed if stupid enough!

Well .....as regarding restrictive or not - my turbo had a single 60mm dia. cone filter on the turbo inlet - considerably smaller than those dustbins used on race bikes - and it made 370hp without drama so I know which one I like. If you were closer you could borrow the RS40's off my bike - don't wanna get into the aggro of boxing / posting / claiming on the insurance etc. etc.!

Most people will swop from ball bearing to taper rollers - better load bearing and adjustment. Should be a straight swop?

Maybe not a lot front to back but from inlet up to top seems shorter and less bulky- see pic's. Conical K&N's may avoid the sloping frame rails. I know K&N's may not be flavour of the month but I like them and even the small cone ones will flow plenty enough air for your Bandit motor. The foamies always seem to get used and squashed into too small / problem spaces as a solution and they just look bad - as you state.

Nightmare scenario! Trying to bolt that whole assembly up to the head - with limited access - virtually impossible!

Its the OSS Nazi's - you can't type G I X E R - it offends their delicate heads!

Black / wet plugs = too much fuel. As it's unlikely you've even got on to the main yet it is unlikely the culprit. I'd look at the pilot / idle circuits first off. What air filter arrangement have you got? I know its not a direct comparison but my 1186 with 36's never needed bigger than 136DJ mains - the air flow in yours will be slower, so using a bigger jet works but the main does seem large? Oh and the plugs won't last like that and cleaning generally don't work for to long! They'll start misfiring then die completely - invest in a couple of new sets - more expense!

Or RS flatslides - if yer cheap! The 36mm RS's work brilliantly on Barry's Bandit - just saying like!

Gotcha - back to front purchase! So used to hearing of us buying from the Land of Uncle Sam, didn't think Uncle Sam needed assistance from the Motherland occasionally LOL! I'll measure a set of ram pipes a bit later when i'm in the garage, but think 52mm dia is about right. EDIT : Just measured and 55mm dia is the size required.

Does it run good or bad? If the former - why worry, leave it alone. How are you going to adjust out 'half a tooth' without adjustable sprockets - which is probably just production tolerances and a bit of wear anyway. I'd be more concerned about ragging a shimmed head anywhere near the redline consistently!

Are you really saving that much money after your import gets whacked with customs duty and VAT ? ? ? UK purchase and easily swoppable?..... http://www.ramair-filters.co.uk/shop/motorcycle/race-pod-air-filters-motorcycle/set-4-oval-52mm-neck-diameter-foam-motorcycle-pod-filters/

I'd say its a bit early to diagnose a fault, personally i'd lean on it a bit more to get the rings sealing - I bought a 10 year old / 7000 mile old bike that had glazed bores as it had been 'baby treated' when running in and always smoked on start up - after a couple of years abuse and stretched oil changes it slowly came round and stopped smoking and using oil - 45000 miles up! Wiseco rings seem more susceptible to sealing / wear in my experience. APE seals are good, not as good as OEM but shouldn't be bad after 350 miles running. Rag it a bit and report back?

Wiseco catalogue say they are 10.25:1 CR so pressure should be around 150+ psi so I concur, your readings are low.

Yeah - what he said LOL! Arttu - some of these AC engines rev 'slow' - but check out the ProStock motors 14k+ but they tend to only last 6 passes - how about 1.5 miles and maybe a minute total run time and $5-8,000 cost!

Balancing should be the absolute last operation done on ANY crank. Pointless balancing before welding and pulling it apart will lose any corrected indexing. There are always very slight variances between static and dynamic balance and ultimately you want ALL the rotating components to be together and balanced as an assembly - easier with plain bearing crank IMO as the pin index will never vary. How do you plan to measure where the variance is without the machinery?

Without stand and clutch switches, the diode pack is definitely surplus to requirements. Simplified system is orange / white from kill switch to feed coils and ign ecu only and blue from neutral switch up to neutral light in clocks which should have power to the other side of it...... the neutral switch, switches to earth when out of gear. I'll check wiring loom diagram later to check if i've missed something.

What's the betting that's never been apart since Harris inserted it 20+ years ago! Its a step forward though!

Get rid of the damn thing! That, clutch and sidestand switch = no end of potential problems. KISS - keep it simple stupid!