clivegto

I'd fitted the old fuel cap seal which leaked didn't help that the fuel return inside the tank was pointing straight at the underside of the filler. Got some cork nitrate sheet to make a seal up out of it adjusted the return pipe so it returns fuel to the side of the cap. Also noticed the fuel pressure pressure gauge was leaking so I replaced it with a bit of aluminum pipe. Got it started up and even road it round the yard a couple of times but then it cut out and wouldn't start again I think it might be flooding itself and there is still a small fuel leak from the carburettor area. Hey ho onwards and upwards at least I got a ride on it.

Found the reason 2 of the float bowls were pishing out the seals were fooked I ordered a GSX1100f carb repair kit from all balls even had new shiny shit screws. Didn't fit all the kit just the float bowl seals and the new screws. Quick bench test showed the fuel inlet pipe had a bit of split in it as well it's very tight on the carbs where it goes into the carb body. Banged the carbs back on and fired it up using a remote fuel supply ran on 2 sylinders then 4 shit load of smoke quick best turn the scavange pump on . Fitted the plenum and fuel tank back on tried again and the beast sprung into life again

Running this on the Moto Martin Turbo Project now it's a bit of overkill but wasn't up to the job on the 1500cc Turbo EFE motor.

Chain was touching the bottom frame rail where it curves round from below the swingarm arm mount to the back bottom engine mount I had fitted a small nylon roller to the bottom rearset bolt as a jockey wheel which I had extend but it was too high did the job to push it around last weekend when I took it to the 1000 bike revival show at Mallory Park. I set about making a new lower rearset backing plate to mount a jockey wheel to a bit lower I decided to use an old skateboard wheel as it spins better than the other one I first fitted I've als run this skateboard wheel before on a different setup. Seems to work quite well when spinning the back wheel round by hand.

Used m6 dowty washers and a half m6 nuts which was just to say holding the sender of the tank removed the half nuts fitted another dowty washer to each bolt so 2 in total on each tightened the sender up to the washers sealing the sender to the tank with the big rubber O ring.

Made a viton seal up for the fuel tap tried some fuel in the tank and it pished out from the fuel sender after a little adjustment it became fuel tite too. Fuel pumps round and round into the tank but at 3.5 psi. Filler cap seal leaks as the return is firing fuel straight at it (used old seal) had put some oil in it before the weekend turned it over topped it up with more oil. I'v fitted 2 switches so I can independently turn the oil scavange pump off and the fuel pump which is also wired into the kill switch. So the I couldn't resist seeing if it would fire up which it did but only on 2 cylinders and pishing fuel outa the bottom of no 3 carb straight over the crank cases lifting the pain as it did but hey ho it lives onwards and upwards

That was fun

Mallory Park

Still a way to go but at least it looks like a motorbike for this weekend.