Gixer1460

Clever boy - gold star.

Personally i'd say that's a bit tall for a N/A EFE even tuned. I used 45/17 with a turbo on road and sprinty bike - had 210hp and about 90ftlbs torque. Without a lot of torque available, I tend to like anything that gives a near 3:1 ratio......42/14, 45/15, 48/16, 51/17 and 54/18 for example.

Why? A Dyna 'S' is designed to be used with a ATU. If its on an EFE engine without one, then THATS a really bad choice! That manual timing adjustment gizmo was originally designed for ProStock engines with stupid high CR's - knock the timing back to near TDC and it'll work good

Er - no and no and use a DVM across the COP terminals - all will usually be sub 1,3 ohms.

Oh go on - just for the crac with pictures of course!

Yep!

Alternate and diagonal - not critical, just don't over-tighten!

Use one of the cam lines to feed turbot and split the other with a tee piece the two short lines to cams.

WTF are you talking about ? ? ? Thread title is about 1428 GSX with questions about stock liners which won't work, then start talking about Busa pistons which don't achieve that capacity. Now you are wanting to swop a shell bearing rod on to a roller bearing crank ! ! ! No wonder you had such a f**kin drama fitting a rear wheel !

I really don't believe any of the std 1127 / 1157 liners will bore out to 83mm - way to thin.

Yep - all integral, but not a difficult job.

These coils confuse me or at least how they get wired up! Average COP resistance is 0.7 - 1.2 ohms @ 12v and if connected in series they share the 12v so get 6v each but add the resistance's so total equals anything between 1.4 and 2.4 ohms - so really need additional resistance in series which would pull overall volts down? If wired parallel, then the voltage will be maintained at 12v to both but resistance is halved (if I remember electrical theory correctly!) so you'd need to add a 6 or 7 ohm resistance, also in parallel, to get something like a 3-4 ohm system draw to keep the CDI happy - or am I completely barking on this?

It wasn't the squeeze that killed it - it was a million year old engine design and rider with a limp left foot or having shift finger reactions measured with an egg timer LOL!

Slot or not - makes no difference to oil draining, Its a big hole and oil comes out - end of story! A helicoil will see out the life of the bike unless you are a gorilla with the spanners!

Well there's yer problem - electrical init! ......................................................................... the genny's fallen off! By the look at the end of that crank it didn't stop spinning too quickly - notice any vibration LOL!

I really did check on the microfische first - guess I went too early! + I knew mine didn't have it hence the welding LOL!

I don't doubt what you have but there was never a dowel fitted from the factory so I believe you've discovered a poorly executed 'diy fix'. Its unlikely the factory would over depth a hole to the extent that the 'fix' would no longer function as intended. A dowelled rotor is a common 'DIY' fix...............................if you haven't got a welder LOL!

Obviously not i'd say! Knackered springs / worn rollers / scored back plate / distorted case. The Suzuki mount bolts are supposed to be be the dogs danglies being UHT - but they break same as other lesser bolts / screws. I resorted to stainless screws and 3No tack welds onto rotor!

And was it..................interesting I mean? Can't fathom why single coloured wire would ever be used - unless you've a brain the size of a planet or Brad O'Connor to keep track of what goes where!

Has it still got the 3 speed gearbox cos that'll be interesting for a street bike?

Agreed - schedule 40 cast bends = weight and difficult fabrication. 316 or better pre-bends easier. I'd pair up 2&3 into the back and have 1&4 ram's horn around frame and pair into the front. Pre-bends will help getting turbo higher also - piccy isn't the best but certainly not the worst for information purposes.

Std coils or aftermarket? Does the misfire occur 2 or 3 days in a row whatever CDI is fitted? Maybe coil breakdown through heat is a possibility - one pair or cylinders or across all 4? Mind you running any engine at 2 million revs is gonna lead to issues LOL! But 2000 is fairly low for electrics to give up - maybe it is gunge in a carb - idle / pilot circuits?

That is a pretty damn good lookin' motorsickle - put it to bed for the winter, fresh for springtime.

Ah well - the wife will have to go then - distraction, costs money to run, needs servicing now and then.

You said complete stock system - hence the comment!