Gixer1460

From what i've heard, most if not all of the DIY tank liner coatings fail after a while with the ethanol addition in fuel! Why do you feel the need to coat the inside? If you store the bike drain the tank and close the cap, or brim the tank with fuel - both stop rust forming.

Neat and tidy DIY - I like the adapter and 90 deg fitting out of the cover. They always sort of look wrong with a straight or slightly cranked banjo. Nice!

Jeez - was your Guide Dog thrilled as well LOL!

Agreed - but Pilot jets don't just affect idle - they are from idle up to and onto the needle and need to be checked under load ie dyno or out on the road - WOT or not you can't look at it while riding.

To a point I agree with the un-neccessary argument but there's also nothing to say they harm or hurt the oil distribution! Me personally - I don't run oil up the barrels to feed the top end so need them with an additional external feed. With my hybrid motor - GSX bottom and GSXR top, the pump although uprated didn't need the aggro of negotiating the block galleries and jets but just had to get to the lumpy cams as directly and smoothly as possible.

I think they are M14 or M16. If you have access to a lathe the extg plugs can be drilled and tapped for a M10 Banjo and use dash 4 or 5 hose. Not sure if you can get dash 6 hose sized banjos with M10 bolts - might have to go up to a M12 bolt BUT the plug gets a bit thin but it can be done as i've got some from my dragbike motor.

Red wires are usually unswitched live and into the fuse box its probably to power the Accessory terminals? Thicker red can also go between regulator / battery / Ignition switch.

Depends on the connections on the soli........ One connection and no - it'll be earthed through the body, two and one side will need connecting to earth / frame. But if the starter switch, switches to earth then one side will be switched 12v, the other up to switch.

Have to ask the obvious - if its a GSXR1100 M/N (which should have 40mm CV's) why not change the jetting to match an 1100 K/L which used 36mm CV's - not Blandit - totally different requirements? The 36's are easier carbs to tune and work brilliantly with a GSXR engine - 125hp stock against 100hp from Blandit.

Yes I did - i've edited so now correct - good spot..............would have only rattled a little bit LOL!

General rule of thumb across most pistons is 0.003/0.004". Only if they use coated alloy barrels - eg. busa can the gaps be tightened as both will expand at similar rates.

Pointing out that it's a 9 row and not a 13 would be unbelievably picky....................so I won't LOL!

But they are really only any use for idle mixture! Bit tricky riding at WOT and peering down a Colourtune at the same time LOL!

Its a Harris - its not supposed to be easy ! Everyone know you have to remove the engine to change the oil and check the tappets ! Its an 'enthusiasts bike' after all ! LOL

I doubt very much that wiring was the issue - more than likely a fubar'd regulator! Seeing as GSXR alternators are two wire only red - battery perm. live and Orange switched loads, sensing is instantaneous? Electrons don't really care if wire is 1ft long or 6ft in this case. Regardless - off topic! Most loom wiring will handle a 1m extension providing comparable wire section is used with decent soldered joints - twisted together + a bit of PVC tape ain't gonna cut it!

Blag number no workie!

See - I said it would fit.............................ish! I think i'd use the lower back mount, rotate engine backwards and re-drill the back upper plates towards the rear? That'll put the front engine mounts closer to the frame mounts, pull front of head away from frame and maybe improve angle of carb's to top frame rail....................but there again i'm not standing next to it!

When I first set the motec m8 up on my turbo, the settings and the map were complete guesswork and I experienced a lot of kick backs trying to start - spinning the starter hub nut undone every time! The modified GSXR rotor with only 4 teeth wasn't helping but once the correct numbers relating to tooth / pick-up / TDC / ign timing were corrected the problem went away. I know 4 teeth ain't ideal but it's all I had at the time!

Per inch of bore so 78mm bore needs 0.006" not 0.012" - so yes they'll be clattery!

Its not common at all - but MBE systems aren't 'common or garden' either. Most ecu's will take Hall or inductive triggers though with varying tooth patterns.

Stationary or when moving? If latter could be output shaft bearing?

Looking longingly at that master cylinder..........its a keeper!

ie. you have to use 1100L / M / N yokes as well but can be slid through the yokes to get the geometry back.

Every GSXR i've built has used them - its not an issue!

Nothing to stop you using engine coolant water through an intercooler! At a constant 70-80 deg C its certainly cooler than high boost air temps. Standalone liquid intercooler fluid might work for a 7 second blat on a 1/4 mile but it'll soon well exceed the air temp its trying to cool so needs cooling itself!