Gixer1460

On prime the tap will flow fuel - usually less than optimal to run continually in use - basically a lever moves the diaphragm in the tap so doesn't need vacuum.

Just cos the plugs are wet doesn't mean fuel supply is correct - just those cylinders aren't running correctly. Could be too much fuel or not enough to fire so just wets the plugs! if it'll run on choke but not when off it sort of suggests fuel to me?

For turbo's and competition bikes that have very high cylinder pressures, the copper gaskets are more forgiving (IMO) and re-usable. The block liners have a wire o-ring inserted which 'bites' into the copper gasket producing an exceptionally tight seal. Come to re-use time you just re-anneal the copper, making it soft again and it's ready to go - good as new. Copper is good for air and oil cooled engines - MLS is better for water cooled, although good for use with road and mildly tuned air / oil cooled motors - personally I wouldn't use one with a turbo or a big, big bore where bore to bore (1-2) and (3-4) metal surface is minimal to provide sufficient clamping pressure making blown gaskets more easily possible.

Bit cheaper....... http://www.suzukiperformancespares.co.uk/product/suzuki-gsxr1100-1216cc-cometic-head-gasket/588/

That's all I used to do for a 7 second Funnybike! - Scotchbrite and brake cleaner. Getting all logical - a clutch is designed to slip, if any part of its operation or movement isn't smooth or slick, then it'll judder and or slip. If slipping under full engagement, it can only be spring pressure / a warped steel or steels / glazed or contaminated fibres or mechanical wear preventing correct engagement. What oil? not a fully synth hopefully!

Shouldn't need that level of surface finish, brown Scotchbrite at most even it burnt up and blued (needs must on occasion! ) - shiney plates are fine and will hold daft power as long as pack is correct thickness / steels are flat / and springs have correct tension. What make of fibres are you using?

Never seen anyone in the UK carry Wiseco gaskets - Cometic is usually my go to HG ........ if its not copper!

Yes - but it would have picked up or stayed the same with oil down the bore. I think you've got a burnt valve or two. Other cylinders aren't bad but an over bored EFE @ 10:1 CR? I would have thought nearer 180psi or 12.75 on your gauge should be the norm?

Actually, at the sort of boost you'd be running to make it worthwhile - 90 deg engine coolant temp would be a bonus! Intake air temps can hit well over 120 degrees closer to 150+C at just 2 bar boost - all subject to turbo efficiencies of course.

Well that was diplomatic ......................not! LOL!

Not dissing your abilities but are you aware of what a charge cooler contains? Its an air to water / cooling fluid intercooler ie a radiator within a fluid filled box! If you have the ability to machine that from a block of alloy then i'm sure NASA will be calling soon! You could be thinking of a plenum that contains a heat exchanger ie. the air passes through a cool water radiator that takes heat from the air into the water to be re cooled elsewhere - still plenty of fabrication and welding involved. And you still haven't addressed the fact, a air or oil cooled bike ......... has no water for cooling! Sure it can be added with the extra radiator, pipework and pump but it certainly won't be less bulky or more elegant than a simple air to air IC! Not knocking ambition - try it .................but do feel like you'll be wasting your time and effort.

Forget the charge cooler idea - to be any good it needs to have reasonable size and also the main ingredient - water....... both of which, are or will be in sort supply on a Katana! If you do want to run mega power / boost on the road a std air to air IC has been shown to work - I used one myself. Otherwise the turbo and EFI installs are fairly common on Oldskool - do a search and read.

Similar to the ignition on the EFE models - they don't need the mechanical ATU as its all done electronically in the 'sparky dark arts' box - see here...... So it looks like someone has done an 'upgrade' as the 1980 GS850 should be like this.....

Maybe an age thing but I thought the use of Busa rods popped the piston out of the block by a mm or so hence when used with std GSXR rods the CR is down around the 8.5 / 9:1 range?

That second calc looks right but suspect the 4.5 should be -4.5 (yes I know what it says - its a hunch!) Just try it and see?

What - as in Big CC Sean? Is it back for work or he owns it again? I though he was liquidating some of his 'assets' - too many toys!

No you can't - if you did the field windings would be permanently on and would flatten the battery in about 8 hrs! Red is permanent live, Orange is switched Live.

1/8th NPT

Nissan 200 SX was about the only one and maybe in the USA only! Seeing how delicate they are when subjected to abuse - i'm not sure i'd want to use a s/hand one!

Never seen any..............the carb linkage and adjustment stuff is close enough to the cam chain tunnel as it is - thinner and would be virtually touching?

Same spacing across all the big air and oil cooled motors!

Only fly in the ointment is GSX rubbers don't bolt on - plain tubes with a curve moulded in! Favourite with drag racers is canvas / silicone hose, flexible and doesn't tend to go hard.

Looks like a collection of machined scrap but Paul does do some serious voodoo magic with his clutches - just don't ask for the manual LOL!

Don't know much about the bike but 32mm carbs seems excessively small for a 1200! Having fitted RS40's which will have the same motor side diameters they fitted like a glove into GSXR 1100M rubbers (not unsurprising as they had 40mm CV's) and with a bloody struggle into GSXR 750 'DOT Head' rubbers which are 38mm dia.

What do the Little Ends measure out at? Steel is harder than bronze so would expect them to be oval if the pins are worn! New pins aren't gonna be much good with worn rods.