Gixer1460

Yeah - understand the reasoning but are we agreed that the wheel needs to be central which will require quite a bit of in / offset of the hub to match up with the bike hub. Which throws up another problem - the extra load due to the offset on the bearings which you can't move!

I believe it's 'swings and roundabouts' - traditional draw through has longish exhaust and ultra short inlet whilst the newer blow through has ultra short exhaust and long inlet. But IMO the latter 'could' suffer a degree of lag due to the considerable air volume that has to be compressed before creating measurable boost..............but it really is marginal. Can't say I've ever worried about lag or slow delivery with either combination - but do like having facility of a air to air IC. Bruteforce's install should be laggy with its large exhaust volume and extended pipe runs - but I don't believe he has any complaints!

Am I missing something as that VFR / tyre combo looks to be 2 - 3" off to the left?

It wasn't blow through - the turbo stayed in the same place - replaced the S&S with a big Throttle body!

Oh forgot to say if anyone wants to copy this manifold that I made for my first draw through then modified for oldskool blow though - feel free! PM me if you would like pdf copies - they are A1 sized prints.

Liking this a lot - everything is short and direct - minimal losses. Hope there is going to be lots of insulation between the header and the IC? Fan under seat - very sensible......

No pictures - just drilled and tapped blind hole for a M6 steel screw and cut head off so it cleared the sensor.......same way Suzuki did it with the early Hayabusa's.

BTW - how did we get into 'side stand' switch deletion? Frankly if peeps can't work out how, even with limited electrical knowledge, then they shouldn't be asking!. It is there for a reason - may be for the peeps who have to ask how to delete it? Sorry if that offends anyone ...............................deal with it LOL!

Rationalised and legalised it for you.

Worked for me!

The brass crimp is factory - seen it lots of times on various manufacturers looms - the bare reds look odd though!

Liquid filled mechanical types are just so much more reliable on bikes than dry electronic ones - high frequency vibes will usually kill them or shake them to bits - my personal preference!

I thought the 1100 M / N was the only bike with 40's?

Yes would spool quick but soon choke itself. My first T2 came from a 1900cc diesel - max boost @ about 3500rpm but just wouldn't make anymore power - flat as! As to numbers - Turbine A/R 0.48 worked on mine but the turbine wheel was not the same it started with so it's a of bit guesswork!

Maybe, but if that shaft costs 10% of the area, you are still up 15% BUT airspeed will be lower so giving a less 'punchy' response which is probably why racers like slide carbs? But Suzuki didn't fit 38mm CV's to the Race 750RR's for no reason - just sayin'!

It looks bloody small - maybe even a T2? Possibly off a diesel with the small dia. turbine?

Intriguing project but I can't immediately see how the frame mods will help with chain run and car wheel / tyre use - watching with interest though! Just out of interest - car tyre in preference to a super wide bike tyre ....... reasoning?

Can't be sure but I believe the Oiler rockers have a different ratio so either increase or decrease valve lift in a GSX head. Unless you are chasing every last HP, i'd stick to what the engine came with!

Doesn't do jack! Some have tried 'resonators' between 1&2 and 3&4 but more marketing tool than performance enhancement! As 2 and 3 fire adjacent - you'd 'unbalance' flow from 1 and 4 for no gain.

That's nice - not too shouty!

There is a clearance issue between cylinder liner and rotating assembly - looks ugly but unavoidable. Could shorten the sleeve but length gives support to piston - choices, choices!

Thats a good number and works well from mild through warm to wild - Greg does know his onions!. Some increased compression won't hurt!

Well a GSX1400 ticks all the boxes - stroke should be 68mm, its a 4v and it is a 6 speed! And looking at the parts fiche the input shaft does look different - like the above, but hard to tell !

Are we knowing if was air cooled? The input shaft at the clutch end is weird looking!

Someone better tell the two turbo GSXR's that I've built, both with 17's - the Kawazuki was 17/45 @ 210hp and the 1460 has 17/42 @ a lot more! Tried an 18 from a Busa - no way, all with 530 / 532 chain