Gixer1460

Not sure an aircooled operator can be used on an oiler - totally different operation - pull v's push. The GSXR 750 RR's has a RHS cable clutch but that's a rare / expensive option. Probably a 600 Blandit one may be the right length ....... but the usual trick when adding a lock-up to a hydraulic GSXR is adding a 6mm ball bearing to effectively lengthen the operation pin.

Inlet centres for Oil cooled or air cooled are 77 - 93 - 77....................water ones are 77 - 85 -77

77 - 93 - 77 from memory is correct factory spacing.

^^^ hundreds of years of experience speaking there LOL! But it's spot on advice ! With work, there are sometimes upto a second in just the chassis with no other power adjustments - just gotta find it.

Usually the tapers are ground not cut - not saying it can't be done but if not smooth and / or slightly incorrectly tapered, the rotor can spin. If you have access to a toolpost grinder - happy days!

Hmmmm at a guess - a rod cap / bolt failed? Normally its the little end / mid rod that snaps and cuts its way out via the barrels & block!

What's the betting the mechnik almost got it right and just cracked one or two of the teeth, then after completing the work , he hit the starter and .......... carnage resulted. Those little starters have so much torque, a damaged pump gear don't stand a chance - expensive mistake!

Not necessarily reading the above DVLA doc - big grey areas - 'a new frame to the same specification' which for an EFE would be steel, welded and painted with headstock angle of whatever and integral engine / suspension mounts? It does not say EXACT specification ..... in a court, a good expert witness could drive a horse and cart through that wording!

Oooooh - that takes a leap of faith ! Mind you a lot of Roger's engines get run in after less than 8 seconds LOL!

I would guess that being an import there was no proof of manufacture date supplied when imported so the DVLA takes date of import. But if you can supply documentary evidence they can / will revise the info - remember they don't give a stuff, if its registered on a 96 plate or an 85 plate.......its registered! The classic car world suffers this as cars are being imported from Aus. and SA. - hard to get reliable info even from Ford especially who records were largely deleted soon after model production ceased.

" Its silver, it could go bang any time and is liable to kill you - I present the Silver Bullet!"

Yep - apparently that's the way! I always bribed a M8 with beer.............upright and easier with two!

Yes that's correct - its my wording that wasn't LOL! (although why you'd want a rev limiter function with a shifter is anyone's guess!) Have you followed the instructions regarding setting the switches - if pre-owned may be an odd combination?

Rule of thumb is 1A per 0.001" of material ie. 3mm tube = 0.125" = 125-130A current. The issues you may have is the cast sections will draw heat away quickly so a preheat is a good idea and at that amperage your TIG machine won't have the duty cycle for big / continuous welds (35%) so may be 4 mins welding and 10 minutes cool down, then repeat?

Well it should carburate correctly and maybe slightly better fuel mileage!

Dunno how different the 88 is to the 89-91 but my Suzuki workshop manual for the later bike says the battery and the battery holder has to be removed to access the 4 screws holding the filter in. I know removing the whole airbox is a major operation but doesn't need the carbs to be removed so a filter should be a minor job - Ho Ho Ho!

FFS - get a manual and use it! They are available free online if you search!

There shouldn't be 'massive' power flowing through that unit to be lost. It does seem a another level of complication for what should be a simple circuit ....... Ign. switch to start button to start soli - all small wires then other side is Battery to soli to starter - all in heavy cable. This unit does seem to be the cause of your issues ! The Dyna could be a cause if it had overly advanced timing but that's really difficult to achieve.

A turbo will run hot low down - not enough heat to drive the turbine which is effectively a 'potato in the zorst - so it all backs up! The 70 would give me more concern - points to possible misfire or non burn?

? ? ? - wot dat? More info pls.

That is just ridiculous ! ! ! . . . . . . . No one eats that many sprouts for dinner! LOL!

Had one on a drag bike and they are fairly idiot proof! Red to 12v side of coils or switched ign 12v, Black to earth and blue and white to the opposite side of coils, piggy backing the extg. connection. Apply 12v to brown wire to make it work.............. not much to get wrong. Do you know if it actually works?

Unlikely but did you take the clutch basket out? Could have misplaced it and mashed the oil pump gears on the alt. gear?

And don't force it into the hole as that's liable to crack the oil pump gear!

Hmmm Bat Flattery and over heated alternator .......................so no!