Jump to content

Lachie04

Members
  • Content Count

    152
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

62 Excellent

About Lachie04

  • Rank
    Ball Peen Hammer

Personal Information

  • Location
    New Zealand

Recent Profile Visitors

498 profile views
  1. Any help?? 1200s RED/White is from "meter" fuse, Orange Green is from "instrument" fuse this seems common to most models both will be switched power Black /yellow splices off from the coil ??
  2. Racetech have a calculator for suspension changes and products available add variables into the calculate spring rates link https://racetech.com/ProductSearch/12/Suzuki/GSX-R750/1990
  3. That wouldn't be right I know the 1127 bearing is 19mm the gen 11 1200 should be 21,6mm according to the parts fiche
  4. @HWBthere's no performance thing is a racing regulation to drain fuel float bowls and breather over hear. Which means a catch tank needs to be lower than the carbs to work and not a lot of space to do that
  5. Hey @kiwisuzuki1100nzdid you ever come up with something for this Looking for some inspiration for fuel drain catch tank
  6. This is how I did mine got it from here https://www.blocklayer.com/degree-wheel.aspx Fits on a cd and I have a bit of plexus over the top to write on the cd hole is right size for the bolt
  7. yes def 19mm. I have (had) "F" short stroke pistons bored to take 20mm pins to fit the long stroke rods.
  8. Measuring header temp is a quick hack to see carbs are set up close. My dyno guy does it as a quick check prior to a dyno run. They should all be relatively close Can be used as a hack to adjust pilots also. I have a cheapo infra red to thermo to do quick checks Colder temp = richer Richer carb settings run better as engine temp increases Straight up Would seem # 4 is a bit richer or not as sync to the rest. Pilots are not always set the same so slight differences are normal. Ensure carbs are clean as and play close attention to syncing carbs first syn
  9. Trying to clean them was not working and pretty munted So hopefully got this sorted now and seem to work but will have to wait a while for a proper road test but seems good What I ended up doing was I aquired a after market set of fork bolts of fleabay from a certain heavey metal industries 1000 that suppose to use Showa 43 mm forks with almost the same set up but work slightly differently Found out 43mm showa forks seem to have changed thread sizes at some point so had to get the main bolt remachined made up a slug as the new one does have the same rebound adjustment screw ty
  10. TIP: there's a bolt hole at the back of the case an at recess at the front to fit a 5-6mm nut and bolt to help pry the cases apart. I don't think they tell you that in the manual (thanks to @fatblokeonbandit)
  11. Have a read through this I have used it successfully and to good effect http://www.factorypro.com/tech/tech_tuning_procedures/tuning_carbtune,CV,high_rpm_engines.html
  12. @kiwisuzuki1100nzto be fair 10.13 only refers to oil and oil mists which takes into account the air box drain but since you don't have that maybe you could check with your clubs tech rep or rider rep to get a call on that. Most track days don't go to that depth of checks, my experience, is only comp events. I suspect that there are some local interpretations which is why MNZ clarified the classic's requirements for shark fins and engine catch tanks.
  13. For nz you have to run anything that could leak to a small catch tank. Seen everything from coke cans up check the regs
  14. Recently measured the extension length of my cable push rod from the seal face and got 65.1 - 65.4mm since all covers are interchangable I would anticipate this is somewhere around what you need for the actuator to work within adjustable range.
×
×
  • Create New...