Gixer1460

Did you try re-setting it? You press the tit - it will pop again if the fault still exists!

An un-oiled foam filter will just stop rocks etc but sand / dust will pass through as the material is open celled polyurethane - there will be a direct (although convoluted) path from outside to inside. @Arnout - worrying about intake pulses will potentially be a fruitless / pointless exercise IMO especially for a road bike. Pulse reflections will occur at most changes of area or edges so potentially you have multitude reflections from inlet manifold, throttle butterflies, carb mouth, ram pipe mouth, air filter and probably a few more so a complete jumble. Generally most benefit occurs when engine operates in a constant relatively narrow rev range with minimal intake tract variations / constant taper from intake to valve. Total inlet tract length is widely know to offer best results especially to fill in torque deficiency holes - usually longer picks up torque and can get to daft lengths without loss of top end HP - see http://www.emeraldm3d.com/articles/emr-adj-length-intake/ - its an interesting read.

If you can feel any step / ridge - then yes its Fubar'd

77 - 85 - 77 is my understanding.

I'd be very surprised that any K&N would suffer an airflow deficiency! I've used them black with dirt and muck on the outside and inside you could still make out the red oil'd fabric. My turbo had a tiny oval cone filter that wasn't apparently restricting 1460cc on WOT - not saying bigger is not better, but maybe un-necessary?

I think the OP is looking at bottom dims ie. 54 OR 56? The answers my son, are all in the matrix LOL! - basically GSXR1100 L - N, some 750's and GSXR 1000's K1 - K7 and a couple of 750's. There are bound to be other manufacturers but unless you've access to a breakers to measure every type of leg its almost easier to keep legs and trees together and adapt the spindle?

Which implies the pistons are taller in the 1052? And so if used with a +1mm stroke they'll pop out the top of the block. Can't use the 1127 pistons unless you over bore the barrels hence matching barrels to crank.

Haven't the 1127's got 1mm longer stroke..............so you'll need the barrels as well. Clutch has to match the crank as well.

Won't make any difference - it's a cylinder with a set bore size but adjustable lever ratio. The bore dictates the pressure and the lever ratio dictates the feel! Crap brakes won't get any better with a fancy master but they may if the master (however it is operated) is correctly sized!

Without AFR how do you know its lean? Something has changed between the green and red runs - what ? Cos the engine seemed to like it. Only ridden one Big Bore GS1000 - same spec bar RS36's was an absolute torque monster - yours has nice flat curve but seems low? What airfilters are you using? Any timing controls or running stock? What compression?

If you mean the carbs sit 'down' with their centreline more parallel to the ground - that is how they should be. It's the difference in nearly 6-8 years of development. Straighter 'downdraft' style is possible but you have to change the std. inlet rubbers for something like rubberised canvas pipe although if there is any measurable advantage, is doubtful. There have been lots of re-worked cylinder heads to increase downdraft angles but it's a lot of cutting, milling and welding to achieve.

How do you mean a 'straighter fit'? You are aware that the rubbers are sized to fit 34mm carbs and not 36mm - fit will always be awkwards!

I thought that at first - but its the black cable sleeve that makes it look thin....... look either side, it's a wide as yours is.

Two tap outlets - two hoses - two filters - two carb inlets - KISS!

Why would you have a seperate fuel delivery system between main and reserve? Most reserve taps just switch to a lower pick-up within the tank and send it down the same pipe/s to the carbs. Are u sure its just not a twin outlet tap? BTW - CV carbs are not ideal for racing purposes as power delivery isn't necessarily controlled by your right hand!

Funny never thought about that but had a look at a Dyna 2000 plate and the bottom cut doesn't look any different - maybe a tweak on the OP switch would have done the trick?

Ah! but I don't imagine that engine spends much time in the 4 - 6000 rev range - 'road bike' in the loosest interpretation! Do they still do the road ride, stop / start anymore?

Clive - just wondering - that alternator looks a little under driven (based on eyeball gearing calculator) Any reason, as alternators like to be driven fast due to low output with low revs? .................. does look trick though!

Nornal 'blue' type silicone will be ok for a while but it needs serious undersizing so it grips otherwise it just slips off and more seriously its not particularly fuel tolerant. Silicone hose for fuel applications is different formulation - and its v. spendy!

No - the Arm NOT the cam!

Unless you need them due to weak ignition - absolutely none!

And the ignition mod is to put a seperate switch in the power feed to the spark box / coils so you can spin the engine without sparks then once spinning, hit the switch and light it up. An engine will generally appreciate not cranking against spark induced cylinder pressure - hence the kick back if anything is weak!

Re above - funnily enough - generally a lot of 'seasoned' drag racers will move battery to the nose not the back....... weight at the back is just going along for a free ride - if its got to be there, it should be doing some good!

And people wonder why they have electrical problems - why can't people follow factory colours! Even better - just use 16A white or black throughout - at least you know its going to be complete guesswork!

Its a full circle with 3 chunks cut out of it - it will turn fine!