Gixer1460

Why? Edge to edge is the same as centre to centre!

A good result ! One comment re. the trigger wheel - the teeth are maybe too narrow. They should be a little narrower than the gaps - it's probably why you had to use 3 missing teeth. This is an off the shelf 36-1 that has been tested to 18k rpm, it's what I plan to use next time - machine out the centre and weld in a stock reduced centre.

Yes - any voltage / current required is electro-magnetic drag on the crankshaft which requires energy via combustion to overcome ...... less drag = more power. Whether you could measure the effect is doubtful but it would be some!

This is soooooo way off the topic it's now just confusing! How did y'all get to starter soli's?

It's not GSX - Its GSF1200 ! Mark 1 version would be best bet 1995 - 2000 but the 2000 - 2005 'apparently' used the same engine with a few internal changes to the clutch.

If you use the corresponding inlet rubbers - yes

The stuff came from John Williamson aka 'Dynoman' way back in the late 80's, early 90's - he's says its ok for 'high power' bikes but the way mine used to spin up on a load braked dyno i'm not so sure. What ecu control are you using?

If you want details,i've plans for a plain inertia type dyno although wouldn't recommend it for mapping as the load cannot be controlled sufficiently. PM me an email address if you would like the files - can't vouch for the operation, it's a pretty old design!

As you seem to be in Trumpland you'll not get much feedback on that product from us in the 'free world'. I've not heard of specific problems with the stators except that they are underpowered! - RR's on the other hand fail easily - taking out batteries and then helping damage the stator windings. Optional devices are available or other OEM RR's can be adapted to work better than Suzuki san's offering! Search on here - been discussed many times!

Nice bit of mill work there

You've just said it - tight QA! For all you know these could be the 2nd's or 3rd's from Brembo or Nissin's tight QA!

Have to agree to disagree with the small recommendation, especially when you use a combination total 3x as big on your bike ! ! !

And when it comes to brakes...........can you afford for them to fail - EVER ?

Yes!

IMO - minimum 19 row and std. Mocal Width (235mm) and Dash 10 hoses. Will deal with mod'd engine, used on my turbo but had to keep moving or it got bloody hot. Better would be 19 row and wide (340mm) width for a bit of insurance, I think EARLS do them - but you can run into fork - cooler interference ........... pays yer money and takes yer choice!

Don't forget the little jack plug that terminates one of the leads - something about 'daisy chaining' other devices - the plug tells them its the end of the line......apparently!

That's not the tank vent - its the filler cap / well overflow drain! Tank is vented via the filler cap - easy enough to dis-assemble and check...........or just ride around with the cap open for 5 - 10 miles if problem reoccurs then it ain't the tank venting - more likely coils breaking down!

This ^^^ occured to me, although i'd set it in place with some Gel Superglue then hit it with epoxy or chemical metal - Devcon or similar.

Or even this one ...... https://innovatemotorsports.com/support/manual/LC-1_Manual.pdf It's the same one I have for my car but without the gauge - got a whole kit but the switch / LED bit is daftly easy to do.

Well i've blown the manifold off a few engines whilst using dodgy ignition kill with an air shifter on turbo motors, and seeing as a lot of people bolt the manifold to the head, you lose that potential pressure release. Nitrous assist is always good for a spectacular backfire. Anyway it's all info for the masses.

Thanks for the circuit diagram which I sort of followed, although some of the component symbols are beyond me and none of the components were listed in my freebie PCB designer software so got a bit stuck ! You may have another sale here - even a kit of parts would be good - metal gluing is easy, and satisfying!

That's an interesting comment re: backfires. If anyone has had a mooch around a Top Fuel bike or car they tend to have sacrificial burst panels built into the manifold to protect the blower essentially. The one on Ian King's bike was a 2" / 50mm dia disc of what looked like tin foil that held 40 - 50psi boost but a backfire would rip it to shreds and release boost pressure safely.

True - but when does it become out of tolerance ? If you are anywhere in the south / south coast - I'd recommend Turbo Dynamics in Christchurch - always done good work and come up with solutions to my requests - I used to spend between £200 - 250 each time including full strip, rebuild and balance, labour and parts. Even when swapping parts, the old bits had value so it's not like having to buy a whole new compressor say.

No arguments please but he does have a point - look at the tacked joints inside - there is no penetration from the outside finish welds, likewise the top closing weld on the far edge - maybe 0.5mm deep (visual guess) - I'd say not if, but when, for weld fracture.

I believe there is possibly a mix up between centre to centre measurements and edge to edge measurements? All air and oil cooled suzukis have had 77 - 93 - 77 ctr. to ctr. carb. bores forever. Dunno what the water boilers ended up as?