Gixer1460

Don't try and convince 'de management' what is and what isn't Old skool - they don't like it LOL!

Ha Ha Ha - I figured you'd pop up Clive to champion Trev's stuff - I hate recommending them ........ but they are the best IMO! Kev's winning bikes used NX Pro big soli's and Schnitz Prostreet 2 controller without problems but he was OCD with their maintenance (cleaning and servicing) and had spares at the track just in case LOL!

Not sure a 600 head will transfer to a 750 block - best check first?

Word of caution NOS soli's don't like pulsing and you just know that they'll stick open - never closed! The WON soli's are the best when pulsed.

Agreed on the pumper - doesn't the manual say something about disconnection whilst base tuning? Just off idle is too early anyway.

A 14 tooth is a bit harsh on chain so 15 / 45 will give same ratio as 14 / 42 and what I used on my 1100 so could be a bit tall for acceleration on a 750? Maybe 15 / 48 might be better?

The point I was making is a std GSXR puts out more pressure / flow than it can deal with so providing more is counterproductive. Pressure is developed once all the galleries are full and if the bearing clearances / oil jets / oil bleeds are the same orifice size then delivered oil pressure will be exactly the same. Compressing oil, just like any fluid, increases its temp so if you had cooling problems - additional heating of the oil ain't gonna help. Oil isn't the best for picking up and releasing heat - engine cooling problems = you want more oil capacity and better oil cooling which is opposite to most drag racers requirements! If you are losing pressure at the strip on shut off, you likely have a minimal oil capacity surge problem, this is why busa's were doing bearings when using flat shallow sumps - the swinging pick-ups helped until everyone discovered dry sumps! These points aren't a dig - just observations - take them or leave them but i've never run a bearing - ever.......................except when the pump tried to pump an M6 nut, did a bit more damage than a few bearings!

^^^ beat me to it! Why use copper instead of a std gasket? If you need to adjust piston projection or compression - do it with base gaskets - for example, as I had 12:1 forged pistons, I added a 2mm alloy base gasket to drop CR for turbo use. It's not ideal as you lose the squish band so combustion suffers but either that or deck the pistons and carve out the chamber to lower comp. Forget to add - copper gaskets tend to seal better if the block is wire 'o' ringed but with a NA application i'd stick with a decent Cometic MLS

Hmmm! - maybe if you've got a set from a watercooled engine the spacing is wrong, but all the air and oil cooled Suzuki's and Kawa's of the period have the same inlet spacing 77 - 93 - 77. 'Onda's have an oddball spacing!

No Bodge - at that level it'll boil the battery - best just fix it!

Yes.

Why increase oil pressure? A stock GSXR bleeds off about 10 - 20% oil pressure / flow at max rpm and like 75% at idle. Shell bearings won't function any better with more than 40 odd psi pressure supplied at the bearing..................unless the bearing is worn out!

Seen the cracks on nitrous GSX's and GSXR's at around 300hp outputs - fairly extreme so 150hp shouldn't stress it IMO.

Std 1100M forced air feed to the airbox. I've got some replacements moulded in carbon - look trick but somewhat redundant with the turbo fitted LOL!

Nice bike, neat install. I fitted an AMS 1000 on mine - ridiculously clever and so much better than ecu integrated boost control, even with MoTec's. Hat's off to you for making 394hp - beats my 369hp but mine is a road bike LOL!

Just out of interest where are the cracks? They mostly appear between the valve seats and valve seats and plug holes - in which case don't bother trying to repair as you'd need to replace the valve seats to do it properly - lot of work, effort and money and it'll probably crack again beside the welded section. Lots of engines run for years with extensive cracks without drama's.

That did occur to me - it is listed in the Yoshi parts list - The plastic is just the carrier / support whilst the reflective foil is the real 'working' element of the assembly. Otherwise it's just form over function ie. looks trick but does little for heat shielding?

If rpm when measured was about 5000 then that's about top end ok - if that was at idle / tick over then no it's not ok.

More performance cams available for the K / L heads - not so for the M / N's. The earlier heads inlet posts can easily be opened out to take 40mm inlets. The M port shape is better but its marginal in most applications. IMO 41 FCR's are too big for a 1216 unless its a full on screamer? Shim gap adjustment is a PITA as well!

Why not use an internally gated housing and weld the gate shut so you can use external gate?

Hint - use Glycerine filled gauges on bikes for that reason.

Most OEM installs use gravity drain hence the large bore. If the turbo is mounted high enough -12 would be ok but usually difficult to achieve good fall downwards and stay above oil level. If its low then a small sump / catch tank below outlet and elec. pump scavenge with -6 or -8 drain to crankcase is easier and neater.

Try lower fuel pressure first - non pump bike carb floats, only designed for gravity, just don't like pressure. If they still leak at, say, 1psi then its replacement time!

Does seem a bargain - All you need to know is if the turbo spins ok and that shaft is stable ie. doesn't have big play (up/down, side to side or in/out) - burnt wheels easily replaced.

Probable corrosion around the dowels ( i think there are 2) so ACP50 / WD40 penetrating fluid is deffo required. The oil drains have o rings that will probably be hard as rock - they need replacing so application of heat won't hurt to loosen them off! Part #8 = dowels and liable to be stuck around stud #6