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imago

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About imago

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    Ball Peen Hammer

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    Birmingham, UK

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  1. I only have 1100s so I can't help with a comparison between the two I'm afraid. I do have a completely bare and unmolested 1100 frame if any measurements or photos of the frame are required though.
  2. imago

    Dashboard

    Usually dry or kinked cables. The most common 'fix' is to remove them and squirt some oil down one end while you spin them from the other.
  3. Is your cordless driver an impact/rattle gun? That may have bounced something on the selector mechanism out of position. I'd say it's definitely a case of opening it up to see what's going on. If you don't the best you can hope for is the nagging doubt at the back of your mind, the worst case would be it becoming very expensive.
  4. A wider shot :-
  5. Pretty much what I was think to be honest. Second hand cases (if they come up) would no doubt be stupid money now, there's been a noticeable increase in the prices of bits and bikes recently,. I've never been that impressed with the repairs I've seen in the past, but things move on so thought I'd ask in case some new alchemy was available. Parts it will be then, after a suitable period of maturing on the rack naturally.
  6. I have a complete running et engine with some damage to the cases. Typical ham fisted stuff, a few stripped threads, a piece broken off of the clutch cable mounting, a piece from one side of one of the pick up cover threaded holes etc. There are three options:- 1) Try and get the cases repaired. Build up and re-cut or drill as required. 2) Try to find replacement cases. 3) Bin the cases and keep the rest for spares. How feasible are 1 and 2?
  7. I think people often misunderstand what performance/race cams are for to be honest. A standard cam is set up by the manufacturers to be the best compromise across the rev/rotation range. A performance cam increases what's available within a particular band because that's where it will be spending most of its time. If you add something at one point, you will lose it at another. So the 'best' cams for road use are the standard ones that the manufacturer used their considerable resources developing. Increasing the engine's capacity (up to a point) with the standard cams fitted will increase the available torque and power across the range. I have no intention of riding the bike anywhere other than on the road, so standard cams make the most sense for me.
  8. No, no, no, you're not thinking properly. Maybe it's the warm weather? What you do is start looking for another bike, preferably one that has the word "project" in the advert, but when a couple come along you buy them both/all. Then in a year or so you buy a complete runner because the project bikes don't fit with the latest version of your plan. Once what started as a complete runner has sat in the garage in bits for a few months/years you sell some/all of them and a few months later start the whole process again.
  9. If it's the black with a small flake in it then Ford Panther black is indistinguishable (do I get bonus points for all those syllables?) If it's the black without a flake in it then it's British Leyland ack as @wraithsaid.
  10. That's a useful link, thanks. It'd be very easy to get carried away ordering stuff from there though.
  11. Yeah, most people I've spoken to say the same. Above 1170 is pointless without all the other stuff, head work, bigger valves, cams to suit etc. I'm not going that far with this, so it'll be an 1168 kit with the ports tidied and valves lapped.
  12. That's the sort of thing I'm after. Just asking around generally, most people seem to be of the opinion that going bigger than the 1170 is only worth it if you're going to forced induction.
  13. It's not so much a question of money (I don't mean blank cheque territory!) I have no idea what an additional three liners would cost. It's more a case of while it's in bits and going to cost a fair bit to sort is it worth spending the extra? At the moment I'm leaning towards the Wiseco 1170 kit as it's tried and tested, and also easy to get a complete kit off the shelf.
  14. I'd like to keep it looking standard from the outside really. It's more a case of if I have to spend the money I might as well get a little extra, rather than wanting a big increase in power.
  15. I need to have a cracked liner replaced on the ET, so it seems a logical point to go for a big bore. The options are 1168 Wiseco with one replacement liner and bore the lot, or 1198 MTC pistons with all four liners replaced. It's only going to be a road bike, so head work won't be more than improving the flow. Not sure about cams and carbs, but lets just assume standard for now. Aside from the obvious, is there anything to tell between the two overbores for road use? Is the larger kit going to throw up overheating issues for example? I've ridden an ET with an 1170 big bore on it which wasn't massively different from a stock ET, just had more grunt and a bit more wind on from lower rpm. That's fine as an improvement for what I want but I'm wondering if there's much benefit in changing three additional liners?
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