Gixer1460

Followers should be smooth, shiny and curved. Any ridges, flat spots, dull or scratched and i'd be replacing it as it may take out the cam. Followers are cheap compared to cams.

Valves are no bigger than std 1200 Blandit ones - I think the smaller chamber makes them 'appear' bigger?

Don't the Blandit ones need the 'secret sauce' resistor in the wiring somewhere to function correctly?

Never seen one worn like that but the second pic is showing some evidence of pitting / voids in the casting! It could be a combination of extended oil changes and/or overly tight clearances that have simply worn out the lobe. Unless Suzuki advise using different oil for your location - I wouldn't! 10w40 is usual grade and would suspect more frequent changes would be better that going heavier which maybe doesn't flow as well on start up when cold - when most of the wear occurs!

No as GSXR has integrated RR within the alternator - only has two wire output - Red to Battery / ign sw. and Orange to Ignition sw and fuses.

When you say 'Bindit bottom end' you are referring to everything below the head gasket ie. the whole engine minus the cyl. head? That's the only bit worth using and maybe the coil spring clutch. If you are considering swopping the 750 barrels on up, over to a bindit cases - i'd say why? A 750 isn't the torquest motor in the world and you'd be losing a gear with a bindit box so needing more torque........... its not a normal swap!

Is this a telepathy example? LOL! That wasn't there earlier ! ! ! ...................... Hmmmmm maybe i'm going mental.

Mine has 370 rwhp - do I need it ? LOL I did look into this way back but the technology - height sensing radar / ultrasonics / linear potentiometers etc was way beyond my pay grade before getting into rates of acceleration algorithms to control it all - I knew what I wanted but not how to achieve it in a DIY stylee !

I'll ask next time I see him but won't be for a few weeks as off on hols shortly - i'll get a picture if I can!

Massive design flaw on Harris's part. A M8 modified the arrangement on his before it saw any weight.

IMO i'd prefer the higher CR as it aid's off boost running and can tolerate 1 bar of boost - problem is boost is addictive and you push it a little bit more and it goes tits up (potentially). Correct fueling helps as overly rich mixtures don't necessarily help cooling as much as people think - easy way of burning up turbine blades, dumping excess fuel into the turbine.

Throw the Bus rods away - they'll pop the pistons out of the top of the block - could use a spacer but you'll need to add a link into the cam chain so its not like a bowstring!. Std rods gives about 9:1 CR I think from memory and i'd use the TD04

Not without billet cases I can't. The rods on mine had to be clearanced to the cases and that's only a 64mm stroke!

Virtually impossible to get to all the screws with the carbs in place and / or at all if in frame .......... yes - I have tried! Gentle heating generally works though and they can take some serious heat ie over 100 deg C

x2 - streetbike through funnybike ALL use OEM! Don't know about roundy - roundy .... they never seem to stay vertical long enough to worry about clutch slippage LOL!

If you haven't got the 40mm inlet rubbers - your going to need them whichever type of carb so can't see how the Keihins will be a cheaper solution? Yes I have used EFI - you do not NEED a cam sensor for EFI only if you want to run fully sequential. You don't NEED an engine temp sender - I didn't use one........ it's only really of use during warm up! EFI only REQUIRES a good crank pick up, a multi tooth trigger wheel, an intake air temp sensor, a throttle position sensor and/ or a MAP sensor (to assess engine load) and that's it!

That translates to about 152hp - which is pretty high reading for a stock bore with CV 36mm carbs. It's even exceptional for an 1100M with 40's. 40's are a pain to set up with anything but std. - suzuki did a good tune with them and don't know of anyone who's used 40mm cv Keihins - so set up advice is gonna be really scarce! All depends on what you want - good top end with excellent mid range or exceptional top end (that you'll mostly never use) and a mediocre mid range (which is were most peeps spend their time?) Lots try 40's and then revert to 36's or 38's which is sort of best of both tunes.

What do you expect the apprentices to do ? As blanks can be anything - hand stamping not unexpected!

Attractive..................they won't understand - you best explain! LOL After all these years, you would have thought someone would have come up with a air switch that doesn't break every 5 minutes - the MRE ones are shite!

More than likely or any other 'safety related PC bollux' that is fitted! KISS ..... Battery - Ign sw - Kill sw - starter button - starter soli - starter motor - earth ...........that's all that's needed!

Put mine together years ago but its good stuff - Motec M8, Jenvey dual injectors 46mm dia throttle bodies, 205cc injectors x 8no., 4 tooth ( ! ! ! ) crank trigger - std suzuki 1100 M VR pick-up and Denso Hall effect Cam sensor with single pin in the inlet camshaft. Its so old the Motec programme still runs in DOS and is so antiquated that it won't accept a wideband lambda without a code re-flash by Motec @ £00's - er! No thanks. Ignition was run wasted spark through a dual channel ign. amp to green Dyna coils but 4 channel amps are cheap enough now so it's an easy swop as i've got some GSXR 1000 K3 COPs - if I can be bothered LOL! I use an Innovate LC-1 with a DTA ecu in my Mk2 Escort.

1. Yes. 2. None that I can tell - but I did it anyway. 3. Sequential Ignition may be a bit more effective at lower rpms and cruise off boost. 4. There are very few ECU's that have successful knock sensing and adjustment. Needs quite a bit of computing to continually advance and retard ignition depending on fuel used, fuel quantities, engine and intake temps, vac / boost, battery voltage whilst listening for reliable knock signal as against general mechanical noise!

It ain't required!

Ain't particularly cheap! I generally use ' Vehicle Wiring Products', 'PoleVolt', 'Kojaycat' or 'Planet Auto' - all of them know their stuff & don't talk bollux!

They do but they are still M8's. Bigger ain't needed - the crank doesn't 'walk around' like the GSX ones do!