Gixer1460

Just an observation - carbs with a FPR don't need vacuum - the float bowls should be filled regardless of what the engine is doing. Fuel metering is done by the carb design not fuel pressure. EFI on the other hand can benefit with a vac referenced FPR as the squirt pressure at the point of injection is proportional to what the engine is doing / needs. Re the picture above - I wouldn't be surprised that the pitot gave bad results due to airflow disruption from the tube welded on beside it?

If the tin tops are aircooled Suzuki then the spacing should be identical to 36mm CV's and 38's and 40's......... 77 - 93 - 77 - centerline dims.

Excellent idea! Hang on bling always appreciated!

Whilst I can sort of see the attraction - that engine has too much 'in ya face' CNC work on it - just me I 'spose! I do like the block ....... apart from the graffiti on it ! ! ! LOL!

Hmmm - bit clunky, not what I was expecting. I was thinking more along the lines of a linear potentiometer on a single cable.

Ho Ho Ho - out comes the Dremel !

Funnily enough I picked up a set of RS40's that came off a race bike and were fitted with a TPS - obviously retrofit but proves with ingenuity anything is possible.

That is about as naive a comment as possible! Good dyno's and good dyno operators will load and hold an engine and make adjustments whilst mapping both fuel and ignition - you see results - pro's and con's in real time. My bike was mapped with 46mm bore TB's - try doing that by 'seat of the pants' tuning!

As 1500/1570 is a fairly normal size @ 87mm and someone used to have an 1800cc GSX @ over 90mm bore - its safe to say BIG!

See! - easy when you 'man' up LOL!

Never seen that - more info? Piccies would be useful. Can see this being useful in multitude of applications.

Check the resistance between the low tension side terminals - should be 3 - 5 ohms - if so you are good to go!

Unleaded fuel makes (IMO) 'reading' mixtures via tail pipe harder than it used to be - plug colour is more reliable. Popping and banging in exhaust on over run is usually too lean. 38's will need bigger MJ's unless the engine really needs the bigger carb for airflow as a std'ish engine will have less draw on the jets so bigger mains to compensate. If it's going to the dyno - all well and good.

Tend to agree - I used to like using a 160 tyre on a 5.5 rim - absolute bugger to get 'beaded' though!

Controversial ........................... but true

Please explain why the Bandit - with more capacity (+4%) but lower compression (-10%) needs such large jets (+20%) then ? It's my RoT - you don't have to follow it!

Suzuki / Kawa / onda coils from the 70's and 80's are pretty much universal (one size fits all) so from same model will deffo be ok.

Generally my 'rule of thumb' is, if you increase compression & breathing capacity the MJ will decrease as there is more 'draw' through the venturi - conversely poor airflow ie. Blandit lower compression needs stupidly large jets to compensate due to reduced draw.

Internal changes only - fuel level sender fitted.

This doesn't seem to be an immediate issue requiring a solution?

The carb throats should line up directly with the inlet rubbers - if they obviously don't then they may be off a W/C engine and they won't fit as spacing is deffo wrong. 36mm carbs will fall into 38mm rubbers - again if they are 36mm air / oil cooled carbs. 40mm rubbers are available but they'd never properly tighten down on 36mm carbs! I've seen people use ratchet straps to squeeze carbs into rubbers but it really shouldn't be necessary even when the rubbers are semi-hard.

Turn that fackin predictive text off And spell checker on Or put yer fingers on a diet ^^^ and that applies to you Young Sir also !

A whole 750 gearbox - not just a case of swopping odd gears. The cases are different across the gears so some fettling may be required. But question is WHY? Smaller / thinner gears, more of them in a motor with more torque that doesn't need them?

Yes and no LOL! It sounds like the guy uses a plain inertia dyno that isn't braked, so if the lower gears are used the load on engine is quite reduced and acceleration of the drum excessive to get reliable results. On 1100's, 5th will probably overspeed the roller, hence the concern - 4th should be safe on roller speed and allow sufficient resistance to load the engine and slow its rev rise - most of the dyno's i've ever used like using 4th gear especially if they use electrical braking to add extra load.

^^^ Is generally true - subject to what boost you want to use! The OP question isn't so daft - true, it won't hike the capacity but that's what the turbo is for! It will however produce a lower CR which allows more boost. BUT, the caution is that std. cast pistons won't last long under increased turbo boost (that doesn't = 6 to 8 psi!) - the rings are too close to the piston top, it overheats which crushes / traps the rings and best scenario = lots of smoke, worst = scored bores. If its real budget build, the Bandit barrels + early Busa pistons =1216cc and will withstand 1 bar of boost if prepped right and they are forged. If the budget allows and you want more boost, only bore to 80mm and use proper dished Wiseco / JE turbo pistons that will cope with pretty much anything.