Duckndive

yes but if he then started it up as they had not noticed the #uc# up ...Bang more teeth......looking at the gear on the back of the clutch basket would help / show the full damage...

They only normaly break if you don't get the teeth lined up when assembling it..."So Ham Fisted mate by the look" tell him to do one PS I would toss back why does it have a different clutch cover gasket now ? It had a cometic one on it when I sold you it line

I set my 1100K Stock Head ,Stock Cam's, 1216 Busa Piston Draw Thru at 110 / 110 ......

Photo by Blackett Photography via Kyle Rushby

The Bore should be a honed "to size" finish....the correctly gapped rings on the pistons do the sealing once matched to the bore... Sorry I don't buy the running it in gently plot......and never had a problem....

Still works.............. Run 1 60ft took longer than Sammys Record 1/4.. ..due to almighty bog then wheel spin.... Run 2 Drop tyre pressure...Better but still spun then carb fell off some ware past 1/2 track Opps Run 3 Drop Tyre even more better "no cigar" 60ft but motor dead at 1000ft ..but 9.5 will do .. Investigation Underway "faulty kill switch"

The theory is that new rings on a dry bore will bed in a few rotations of the engine.... Mate of mine used to build Ford V8 F one engines why back when and they went straight on Dyno at 8K

I read someware Roger had posted "may have been faceache" Assemble the pistons into "DRY" bore and by the time you have dialled in the cams the rings will be seated...... Works for me...

Are you using the 2step with the gas or just using a WOT switch to activate the controller

Crank bearing sorted and all back together will be trying clutch at a RWYB soon I have one of Pauls clutches in another bike and luv it .....

I know its not the same as I have draw thru. But temps on the bend of the header are 145 ish at idle after a min from dead cold engine..... I have seen 175 / 185+ after 3 or 4 mins....Heat Build up is quick when not moving And its a bit on the fat side

you can bolt the Slabby one on if you swop the gear for the blandit one.....

Any use Clocks wiring from the manual

sam or any machine shop should be able to make them......rupperton used to do it for free if you bought the clutch from him..... I,ve used one with out buttons before now and just kept an eye on wear..... they are better long term with them thou

If I recall there was a thread about the very cheap "chinky" pistons kits on Eblag for the gs1000 ...... I,m sure someone said they had used a set without issue ..but I cant find the thread ...so may have been on faceache........ I think this was the seller....http://stores.Eblag.co.uk/cruzinimage-uk1484?_trksid=p2047675.l2563

Lock wire them round the pipe

1100K RWU yokes are 43mm and go straight in

the left hand rear mount on EFE frame is welded ..and the right hand rear is a bolt on..... as the cases are the same you may find the rear et mounts will work with new spacers and possibly plates the frames are different but the main difference is the rear suspension

Convert it to cable clutch .....2 options either from sprocket side ...B6 cover .... or clutch side using either a 88-89 GSXR 750 or a 90-91 GSXR 750M cover and clutch lifter "same as gsx one"

I wonder if you and Dave Baughan are the only ones that still have there original bikes ?

Are you sure about the Adult status

Yeap No 3 quite common with Carrillo's

Cases "as in crankcases" or do you mean block / barrels ?

Interesting I,ve just put a new 180 on a 5.5 rim and it would work better "sit flatter" on a 6inch like the old sticky mickys used to I think.............

the money would be of more benefit spent on head work IMO