Duckndive

Another option is Fitting a dowel "properly" unlike Suzuki's poor attempt on the GS1150 ... I've run both welded and non welded doweled......both work..... you just need to be-careful no to put excess heat into the rotor when welding and disturb the glue / resin that hold's the magnets in

what set up are you thinking / planning ?

If you search starter clutch in the air cooled section there are a no of threads on the subject....

Not that far out......need 2 x as much methanol than petrol so yes big jets ....and a Big spark to light it.... Mikuni used to do methanol kits for some carbs ... But a set of no drill's is cheaper....a draw thru on Methanol would be cool "Pun intended"

Current version with higher poundage rear spring on reworked k6 shock

LoL... I'm a lardy arse since I gave up smoking about 10 years ago.........so makes no difference ..turbo takes up the slack............... However we always used to send Little Paul off to the crapper to lose that extra pound before racing ....

Much Lower..............This is low......... The arms blandit but the linkage and shock set up is 1100L ....shocks been reworked and re-sprung for the longer arm

I use adjustable dog bones....rose joints and turnbuckles from Eblag you can get an idea on length...buy taking existing off and lowering it to someware near and measure new centres.... in the past I used to just have 2 sets off bones and just swop them.....but it's a pain so do adjustable now.....

Yes that's high "still" for drag racing you ideally want the rear wheel spindle to be higher than the swinging arm spindle with the rear shock fully loaded "compressed " as you launch.....you can sort the front end to match by a combination of dropping in the yokes and a strap.....

A pic would be good......a poorly set up rear shock my we'll be part off your traction issue....and tyre pressure can play a big part....

messaged you with info

Paddock stand to bike night ................

Part No on bag No 3 came in

How's £20 posted for the lot ....

A case of nice motor shame about the rest

Where are you located ?

added pic..............

Yeap got a full set "no carb clamps"

Yes you could run it like a 750 oil boiler "think" where's Del ........... with the cable mounted off the cover Like this ...

Simple answer NO....but extending one would not be a problem ..but the cable would be at an angle out of the adjuster / case mount and may wear quicker

Could well be I've broke a few over the years ...but I def took it off a full faired bike I broke....

Ok cable pics and info...... 1st Pic From Left to Right 1,2,& 3 are all the same length cable 2 with the centre adjuster is Full Faired Bike "think" No 4 shortest may be from a Kat "An Adult will know" Pic 2 ..Perch "handlebar end" same order...Part No on bag No 3 came in is "58200-00A20-000" A common mistake on bike's that have changed hands a few time's or been modified is its fitted with the wrong handle bar leaver / perch and in turn makes the cable run messy Pic 3 original lever / perch "what I normally use" the angled entry means the cable misses the headlight and other rubbish ... I tend to use either cable 1,2 or 3 dept. on handlebars as I have found with the OEM lever set up you can get the smoothest cable run and operation......the cable route is well pictured in the manual.. I have never owned a stock bike so what's best with OEM bars I have no idea....

I have a few odd oil boiler manifolds whats the part no on the side of it ?

I think jonny1bump did a slipper clutch for his 1100....

Ohh your in the good old US.....go to Barnett direct then....... http://www.barnettclutches.com/1000/suzuki/0/0/1997-suzuki-gsf-1200s-bandit.html