Duckndive

It,s not broke it just stuck in the kill position due to shuttle being Dry.....tapped on vice and lubed with WD and its fine now....the spare I got of Roger does have a better switch on it thou

With the accusation of a MRE Spacer from Rupperton Fitted the slider ride back to the Fruit Loop Cover ... To make it easy "simple" to swop back to Lock-up for Dyno Day...

Cheese Grommet Cheese .....................

I would have thought that ET ones would be close if not a direct bolt on

Done properly they are quick https://www.youtube.com/embed/dN5_5brMUU4?ecver=2

I,m in

Primary ratio is differ t but I think the box’s are the same and Just final drive ratio that different to accommodate the different primary ratio

Just need to understand it now then

I,ve used cut down stock one's and modified 1100L one's in the past

No bore spacing is different

Simple answer is yes they will fit....but not worth it unless you are going to use some hairy gsxr cams and the head has been ported etc... from memory "and allowing for the fact I,ve slept many times since" the 750 cams will give less lift than stock gs1100 cams...

use some stock inlet valves in the exhaust

https://www.gearingcommander.com/

I use a pair of these on my RS38s Item no 350635171659 on you know where offer them £20

No but they have to self start buy rider with no assistance

Done some sums.... on the GSXR the alternator runs 1.49 faster than crank ... mine is running 1.29 slower than crank ....so in easy no,s its going half the speed it does in its original application .. So I will check the output and adjust if needed.... But it worked for Brad and Richard

Yes

Eagle eyes LoL TBH Ian that's the way it came and was on a Similar Engine ...I,ll do a ratio count on the teeth I,ve not tested the output yet so it may need changing

Easy just take the mag off and use the existing starter clutch ..."I had to machine the centre boss down to gain a few mm for the drive and shortened nut"

I did run mine on the road a few times but the head got very hot... ...which I would guess was down to lack of oil flow..... in the oil boiler there is a lot of oil volume that is directly pumped to the head. .the air cooled motor even with uprated gears get's no ware near close to the same volume

if the headers are welded into the collector you will have to force them into the ports "as the port spacing is different" most aftermarket "Micron ,Yoshi, Akrapovic etc" have separate pipes that are retained by Springs's so easier to adjust to the different port spacing off the water boiler .... my guess on the gsxr thou headers is that the centres are the same as the water boiler.....as when I fitted a set to a oil boiler I had to bar them into the ports

The NHRA Pro-Stock bike guys in the US are very secretive about airbox's you rarely see more than the clutch when they service between rounds every thing else is covered up away from prying eyes or the bike goes in the trailer with a shield behind it for service..... Just like the Pro Stock car boys used to do before the NHRA banned the practice ....they just run a huge fake air box on the car,s now to hide the trickery ...... F1 teams spend millions on air box design and wind tunnel time....

As long as the headers are not welded to the collector then most aftermarket oil boiler ones will fit.

I Luv the Air Cooled motor but From a practical view The Oil Boiler is lighter , its makes more beans stock , its cheaper to tune, turbo or gas and in a light minimalist drag bake will go high 9,s in stock form..... Pamela is just like the air cooled motor good in its day but a little long in the tooth now and need's more $$$ to keep up now there are younger upstarts in the frame

Do the basic's ... make sure it rolls with the minimum resistance...brakes not binding and wheel bearings well greased "if your feeling flush fit ceramic bearings" Almost every RWYB bike I,ve ever pushed up in the queue when the owner has gone AWOL would benefit from the simple basics to reduce rolling resistance