Gixer1460

We have a similar variation - Back Arsewards! Stop getting hung up on the 650 cams 'not working' due to the cam wheels . . . . . you unbolt the 650 wheels and fit the 550 wheels that match the 550 crank gear - Job Done! Apologies for the 650 confusion - we only got the 650 Shafty as a Katana of all things, but I can't see Suzuki re-engineering a whole separate engine just for a chain drive variant - can you? Either way both the 550 and the 650 are unlikely to set the world alight with their stunning performance! - for probably the same coin spent, just buy a GSXR 750 and throw that in the frame, add an oil cooler and instant REAL performance hike with solid reliability!

I think you've got it arse about face! The 550 may have similar power as a 650 but it lacks torque and makes up for that with rev's - its a peakier engine. The 650 - as a shafty based engine - was designed to make torque and its power output is better spread across the rev range meaning you don't have to continually stir the gear shift - just click into top and 'roll the throttle' Usually in any torque comparison - cubes wins!

Pretty much like this . . . . Be wary for just changing cam sprockets as whatever goes on the cams has to match the crank sprocket in a 2-1 ratio otherwise shit gets broken!

The problem with that is although the part is the same, the part number will be different allowing them to apply a 'popular' tax over and above the regular price! A CAD file is unlikely to exist - not difficult to create but at, say. £/$100 / hr that's half the new cost gone and material, machining and heat treating will add triple that to the final cost. A machine shop may be able to re-weld / spray weld the splines (I assume these are what's mullered) and then re-cut the splines using a rotary table - still a couple of hours maybe?

She may be turning but she sure as hell ain't charging fella! A swapped alternator , for a known good one - will realign the planets and bring calm to your world, and with the charge mod a steady 14.5v output - happy dayz!

Correct model of what, carb or engine? Either way those carbs weren't fitted to a GSX750 engine so any jetting is guesswork!

The inlet rubbers are most certainly left and right handed to match the angle of the inlets cast into the cyl. head! Suzuki part #'s - 13121-45400 (LH) and 13110-45400 (RH) - clearly different! Whilst a manual will spec the jets for the carbs - that will be for the CV types, you have GSXR slide types which are likely to require different jetting. You can try the same sizes but a dyno is likely the best way to get them correct. The other thing is the potential size difference of the inlets between the two carbs where they fit into the rubbers - likely to be different and so liable to leak air!

Unfortunately I have to say that those aren't Katana mufflers! Kat mufflers have the mount welded further down the length - the 'spare' hole in the footrest subframe is the correct mounting point. I'm no expert and these are a couple of pic's I found on Google.

Check basics and report back - is there a spark?, plug condition / use new plug, valve clearances etc. Did the problem move with coil / lead change? If not it strongly points to a carb problem - is there fuel? Don't assume - check!

If you block the inlet of a carb - it gets no air so can't run therefore if it continues to run its got an air leak as I said before! And yes #3 carb is different - it is the reference carb that you adjust the others to when syncing them up with vacuum gauges.

If you assume the tensioner is original then the spring will be 40+ years old and can be assumed to be Well Slack! GSXR engines tensioners are well renowned for soft tensioner springs at much younger ages ! With those you can just replace the spring for less than a tenner! Checking on Alphasports shows they are available for the GS750 and less than $3 ! ! ! Check chain every time you check the valve clearances - std. procedure - if you can pull the chain off the sprocket and see a gap = its time for renewal! Its just like the final drive chain and sprockets. . . . just smaller!

These gauges are 'ok' but rely on splash only to read oil temps and so have limited response - more accuracy if sensor tip was submerged like the electric ones. Nevertheless the temps don't seem unreasonable!

Enlighten us then - how? If a tap hasn't got an 'Off' position how do you create one? From info above this one has 'On', 'Res' and 'Prime'. both On and Reserve being vacuum operated. From my limited experience - getting them to flow fuel isn't the problem (even when its not wanted) it's stopping them (for that very reason!)

I'd say you've got an air leak on the inlet side - rubbers between carb and cyl. head is the favourite place, especially if carbs have been off and on a few times! Learnt your lesson with the 'Tech' - i'm sure he relieved you of plenty of folding for his 'services'!

And compare the power outputs and you'll probably see why one is smaller than the other!

No one has ever 'over' cooled an oil cooled motor and cooler oil is always better!

Refer here : https://oldskoolsuzuki.info/archives/category/how-to It makes for a much more stable alt. output.

Didn't you consider aesthetics were just a little bit important? No problem with oil drainage though LOL! Congrats if it works but Daaaaaamn boy - she's ugly !

You don't want to be removing that cover with a running engine at ANY rev's unless you like an oil bath! When you noted the voltage my 1st thought was alternator / regulator / rectifier as others have said and if the battery has needed lots of charging, this sort of confirms it. For future, if working on electrics a lot, hook the battery up to a charger / battery tender so it never drops to low levels and you don't have to stop for re-charging. Also, it may help if you do the alternator charging mod to ensure a constant charge voltage to the battery and also do a direct, battery to coils connection via a ignition switched relay, to avoid loom resistances and ensuring best volts to the coils - which when running should be / will be whatever the battery is receiving - usually 13+ volts.

Using the APE block shouldn't be an issue - you did block the oil gallery / stud feeds in the cases I assume? Why are you feeding the valve cover from the main gallery - it should have 'low pressure' oil from the back of the cases. Its a whole different oil circuit separate in the pump. These engines don't 'generally' have oiling issues. Any HD springs from normal sources will work fine - 1000's of engines have HD valve springs with few issues - mainly caused by binding or poor assembly!

The original tap filters are designed to keep rust flakes getting to the carbs but not much else as you've found in the tap and i'd suspect in the carbs as well ! Most on here will use an inline filter for insurance but a session cleaning out the tank wouldn't hurt - and costs nothing. likewise taking carb float bowls off and cleaning them out. May not be a proper clean but all of the float valves should hold air pressure if you blow through the feed pipe!

The reserve should also be vacuum controlled. The prime position just lifts the diaphragm to admit fuel to 'prime / fill empty float bowls. And yes your floats and their associated float valves should not allow fuel to flow once the bowls are full - so they need a service as well! I can't see how trying to control a leaky diaphragm is going to help - even if you 'turn it off' it'll still leak which the carbs can't stop either!

Your 1st statement is correct. The 2nd is not. Annealing is the very act of heating a material to soften it - it may be cooled quickly or slowly ! It makes no difference to its properties. The rapid cool is obviously quicker and leaves less oxide on the metal. Yer pays yer money and takes yer choice! I've nothing against MLS gaskets and most, if not all, turbo'd Superstreet bikes that are capable of 3 bar boost are using MLS. BUT they are also alloy blocked, alloy head and alloy pistons so relative expansion rates are broadly similar and are water cooled. Our older engines have steel liners with uncontrolled cooling - whether this makes a difference I don't know in regard to gasket performance?

The O rings I refer to are piano wire rings that are seated in grooves machined into the cylinder liner lip - about 1/8" back from the bore. The wire projects just enough to form a pinch point on the gasket increasing its seal through increased pressure. Never needed any other rubber o rings that weren't standard with the engine although mostly any pressurised oil up to the cylinder head was via external lines - only oil through the block was draining the head and under no pressure. Regarding annealing - I used to do mine on a two ring gas burner / hob, to dull cherry red and straight into basin of cold water. At a push, at the track, a Mapp gas torch can be used but takes longer - easier to swap gaskets and re- do them at home!

Unfortunately we look at Blandits as parts donor bikes so info is going to be minimal. Unless you want to mix / match / engineer to fit, it may be quicker to throw a whole front end at it as everything will work together and unlikely the stem will be different between frames!