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About rerb

  • Birthday 04/03/2003

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    Maine, USA.

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  1. I think the Chinese crap IWG is just too junk to do its job. Gonna get the proboost turbo and external wastegate to solve this issue. I am looking to push a lot more power but I'll need to throw in a proper set of rods and pistons to go above 300
  2. Watched some gopro footage of some of my pulls, with my boost controller full shut (10 psi) my gauge read as high as 25!! Which explains why it kept cutting out (ignition) This only happens with my exhaust off. I'm using an internally gated turbo, would mocking up an exhaust stop this, or do I need to look into external wastegates? Thanks.
  3. Got to dyno it today, 260 HP and 150 Ft lbs. This is at 11 AFR flat, But Arttu raises a good point so we'll see how it feels on 108 mains. Felt good to hit my goal of 250 after a year or two lol. New problems arise, however: clutch slip! Currently using the Swedish conversion with 3 springs, I might try new plates and a 3rd HD spring first then get a lockup if necessary. Opinions on best clutch disc mfg for these bikes?
  4. Mains are at 110, but yeah. Seems to be spark blowout. Gapped down to .015 and pulled out a few more degrees of timing and that seemed to solve the issue. Ordering some coils from ignitech and stepping down to 108 mains since my afr is mid 10s on meth. Didn't realize how much harder more comp and water was on ignition
  5. Finally got the bike up and goin after raising the CR, fixing my blown seal and adding watermeth and an ignitech cdi. Huge difference!! Much better low end and it does wheelies without being spooled up now, and my 2 part iat gauge shows pre injection temps around 120 and post Injection at around 60. My problem is after the first gear or two, when you really lean into it, it starts bogging and missing around 7k, and completely hits a wall at 8. If you stay tapped the revs won't climb and the bike won't go any faster. Adding choke doesn't help, and the afrs are around 11 or so. I'm having trouble finding the cause of this issue, currently thinking either I have a problem with my fuel return circuit, or the ignition is too weak. I'm going to try gapping the plugs down to .015" (.5mm), but I also wanted to ask if it makes sense that raised compression needs smaller jets? (Skimmed a mm off the cylinders). Is it more efficient and thus choking out from too much fuel? I asked a shop and they said usually when they increase compression they need to go up in jet size. Curious what your experiences are, as it might help pinpoint the issue, thanks.
  6. When you wound them in without bottoming them out, did you still get them to 15ft lbs? And to make sure, the nuts torque to 42 ft lbs, right? APE says that but since the hg mightve been loose I just want to verify.
  7. So the machine shop told me the head had scratches from the head gasket at the middle 2 cylinders, he thinks either from too high cylinder pressure, or the issue with the head studs. Anyone have a clue or dealt with this before? I don't want to bolt it all together just to blow a headgasket once I turn up the power, and I don't see much mention of that from other forums.
  8. rerb


    That's what I've been fighting, I'm also replacing the carb boots and adding more clamps to the intake incase for whatever reason boost in the plenum isn't reaching the carbs. I had issues where boost would blow the lip of the silicone connector just a tad off the carbs, I added some plenum supports but I'm not sure that fixed it at max boost. I tuned my AFRs to be more on the safe side (12 - 11.5) so it's not the most efficient, but I agree I should be seeing more power than I am. Could also be Eblag turbo bs. I guess we'll see if it's gotten better next dyno day
  9. rerb


    Haha, once together I'll do some test runs on wastegate (8 psi) with meth enabled, while logging IATs from the sensor. If all is well I plan to slowly push more, making sure temps and afrs still good. I'll keep doing that until I see 250 wheel! It's worth mentioning the sub 200hp runs were on the old turbo with a bad seal, after putting the new one on at 18 psi is when heat became the real issue
  10. rerb


    This too crossed my mind, going by the compressor map (and rough estimation) I think I'm dangerously close to the surge line, as the 16g should be fine for 400 cfm. Assuming 200-250hp high revving I should only be around 200 cfm(?) If this is right I highly doubt I'm overspinning it (unless my turbo is complete junk), but rather not being able to spin it fast enough. My solution? Skimming the heads. I'm going to drop a mm off the cylinders before reinstall, and see if that helps bump things up a bit.
  11. Makes sense, I wouldn't've thought it would be ok to run them not bottomed out. Red or blue threadlock? And what is moly? grease?
  12. I've just bought the AEM watermeth kit after giving up on an intercooler setup. Might be a little fancy, but I've always wanted one. Borg's intake temp calculator says my intake temps are close to 230f, and after a long pull the plenum will actually burn my legs, so I believe it. I think heat is a big reason I only gained 4 hp on the dyno going from 10 psi to 15. (Sub 200hp) as the engine is in perfect condition (just tore it down). The plan is to progressively spray a 50/50 mix of water and meth into the charge pipe after the pilot tube starting at 8 psi, adjusting the "full" spray point depending on my AFRs. I don't want to be lower than 11. An electrical engineering buddy of mine is going to help me code an afr/boost logger on an arduino for dirt cheap to help tune it. The challenge now is just mounting everything up, I'm thinking using the passenger footpeg brackett for the tank. Once it's all together I'll head to the dyno and do some experiments with the MAP/IAT I'm buying from ignitech. Anyone else gone this route before?
  13. Weird, they told me call back if the new ones have the same issue. I'm thinking it's a possible oversight from being designed for the gsxr and something in the bandits head is just a little thicker? Not sure. No spacers, std. Base gasket and head gasket.
  14. I think the O-ring blew out because I was stupid and put an o-ring where there wasn't supposed to be an o-ring... I put 2 extra head O-rings under the cylinders for whatever reason. I gave APE a call and they said I'll be fine without the washers, but if I can fit them I'll run them. Maybe i flipped the long threaded end of the stud around? I'll find out when i finish pulling it apart. Thanks for the help guys.
  15. Dug into it - not the O-rings. I think the copper base gasket started leaking because when I pulled the cylinders, it was stuck to the bottom of the jugs except for one section that was peeled away, exactly where oil was coming from. Probably a fuck-up during install. Another weird thing: 2 of the APE head nuts rounded off at the stud. Completely lost their thread. Looking at it, it seems that the studs were nowhere tall enough for proper thread depth (only 4 or 5 threads deep in the nut). What gives? did I put them in the wrong location? I ordered a new set of studs and nuts. I know OEM studs have 3 sizes, but the APE ones seem to all be the same. If the new ones have the same issue, can I forgo the copper washer under the nut for more threads? And finally, I had O-rings over 2 studs under the cylinders, but looking at suzukipartshouse diagrams, I don't see any listed. Does the base gasket not have o-rings over the front corner cylinder studs? Thanks.
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