Gixer1460

Ya Pussy! LOL - Chick dig scars! Where switch joins main loom - just bridge the contacts job done.

Look where the flap valve is in relation to the incoming exhaust gases. A WG only needs to operate once required boost has been achieved and / or to stop the turbine overspeeding. Internal gates work but are crude due to asking the fast moving gas to turn 90 degrees an exit out to atmosphere and relieve exh. pressure. This is why external gates are positioned ideally on a tube that is on the gas flow path of least resistance - it gives better and more controllable response and less chance of boost creep / spikes. That picture is similar to my 1st turbo - a Garrett T2 but its housing had a cast in divider to keep main 'used' exhaust away from the WG bleed off exhaust. I used to run a dump pipe and the WG small tube joined that about 4" from the flange face, good for 10psi and no creep.

If this is your first turbo build - don't over complicate things with add on bollux! KISS - you will have enough to work through without extra's that aren't needed! Get it running properly first, learn with it on lower boost, understand what's happening then increase the boost. These 'cheap' boost controls are aimed at the 'go faster' car boyz who aren't likely to suffer big consequences with an extra 1/2 bar boost instantly!

Nah - apparently it runs like shite! LOL! There is something definitely awry with your valves ..................... or your engine is worn out!

You can't run ANY wastegate AFTER the gasses have passed through the turbo - it would achieve nothing, WG's need to be pre turbine to relive exhaust gases. Dividers will only be used with twin scroll turbines and will usually be used with twin WG's. Some high end builds even mount the gates directly off the scroll / s for best reaction / responses. For the majority of builds internal gates can work ok but higher pressures / exh. flows benefit from use of external gates. Some of the commercially produced systems are works of art, developed over many years and simply copying the external appearance without knowing what's 'below the skin' can make a bad set up.

The cap is machined for them so can't imagine how end float without them would be acceptable - a crank floating back & forth 1-2mm can destroy other things!

As you are in the 'States you stand a better canch of finding some cases cheap enough to make it worthwhile - here in Europe the cost + all the gaskets and bearings mean £150 would be a cheap repair. Really just replacing cases doesn't pay off as crank bearings unlikely to match so you get a set of cases with a crank but then the rod bearings could be different so there is more cost - just easier to buy a whole bottom end then costs become marginal ! Surely in Utah there are engineering shops with all the agriculture that does on - widen your search? If it was me, i'd stick the pin in, weld round it good and build it up, take pin out and counter bore it to take a steel sleeve and needle roller bearing as a good fix!

See above!

First, if you think the valve clearances might / may be wrong - check them before anything else! They don't 'slip' unless assembled wrong or adjusted badly. Balancing carbs - the non adjustable is the reference - if it has the lowest reading, the others have to be adjusted down to match - that is the correct way. Compression check - no bad thing although what it tells you is minimal. You can't 'over' pipe fuel to a carb! It'll only take what it needs. On the other hand 6mm is borderline small not big! Don't fuck about with the only carb that is likely running correctly! High rpm's is usually air related - air leak or throttle butterflyies open too far or stuck open and can't close. Its fault finding 101 !

er! - 1127 engine std is 78mm bore !

You still need to know which way and likely how much to change - a wideband can give that info. A dyno tune is generally required for a turbo build and they will deffo use a wideband lambda - so if nothing else, include a lambda port in the exhaust !

I didn't know there was a 'factory' tool for this ......... I don't think the majority of engine builders do either

Interesting piston treatment as deffo not a std MTC LOL! I can surmise what the grooving is attempting to achieve - i'd like to hear your take on it?

Really? I've never needed anything other than my thumb! New / soft seals shouldn't require anything to 'tap' them on!

Lots and lots of reading and research as some of your questions are quite naive! May sound harsh but we aren't going to answer every simple question!

Bandit is an obvious choice - cheap, reliable and suited for forced induction although some mods are required. Although some people have run low boost with std. pistons its not a given they will survive - easiest option is mk1 Busa pistons that take engine out to 1216 and with a little piston prep make good turbo pistons. Other than that a good working set of 36mm carbs will suit - don't buy cos they are cheap as you'll be forever rebuilding them and chasing problems. A good programmable ignition is useful but not essential. Allow £1k if you have an engine, £1500+ if you don't. You'll maybe spend more!

Well think again - 1985 GS1150 EFE - 100.44hp @ crank. GSXR 1127 - 125-128hp @ rear wheel so happily more at the crank.

Really not necessary for a 'run of the mill' use bike! The steels are all punched from the same thickness steel at the factory and the back edges may be a little raised but its not an issue - it's generally why some people say steels have to go in this way or that to work smoothly - in my experience, it's bollux as if it's smooth one way, it'll drag the other ! If you want a good clutch - use good up to spec springs and measure the stack height when its working good and stick to that height. Adjust the ht. with old plates and always check for warped / flat steels - any blue spots on a steel = bin it as its warped. Steels can come out blue / black all over, a bit of Scotchbrite and brake cleaner and they are good to go. Waaaay off topic but useful info for memory file LOL!

If mk1 has relief valve and mk2 doesn't - how would you effect pressure relief with mk2 in place of mk1? So it may fit but not work correctly!

The Early GSX one - anything that was fitted with an ATU! A GS one may be suitable - never tried!

We can't help that it's got the wrong head, can we!

They say a picture paints a thousand words! The 630 sprocket is / will be a bigger diameter and as such the side plates would be above the bearing housing casting, also the 630 is a wider chain so its centreline is further outboard than the 530. A simple spacer added to the extg. spacer or better a new longer spacer would correct the centreline issue and also give clearance to the 530 side plates to the bearing housing casting. Buying a whole 630 C&S kit is a bit extreme for something solvable with some thick washers IMO!

That occurred to me but a calc would put finished capacity up over 1300cc ( I didn't know what the 1000 stroke was so used a 1100 stroke and took a bit off LOL!)

I guessed on the model being a later variant due to the weird clutch operation pushrod in your picture - the GS750 spanned about 8 years and several variants - quoting an age / year helps! All parts fiches are from Alpha Sports and are very useful!

It may or may not be related but who knows what else is wrong?