Gixer1460

I struggled trying to work it out! I figured if from that side the engine is rotating 'forward' ie. clockwise, then the pick-up point is closest to TDC so retarded? Surely to be advanced it has to be farthest from TDC? But being fully advanced would make a lot of sense with regard to the starting problems and general running! Full static advance at idle maybe 20 degrees then plus ATU advance of +25-30 degrees? is far to much IMO.

I do not know enough about Microsquirt to give informed answers but I believe the two outputs (effectively a two tooth wheel) plus the inclusion of the mechanical ATU to alter timing and injection points, is severely compromising the installation! Why is the pick up plate in its fully retarded position? This should 'help' starting as normally the regular ATU timing marks occurs with the plate centred in the slots. A 1500cc is a big motor to spin over with onboard starter - may be its too slow or drawing to much from the battery to reliably start? If it were me, i'd seriously look at making a multi toothed timing wheel 8-1 or 12-1 tooth for ease although 24 -1 or 36-1 would be better, use a conventional GS / GSX pick up and look at using the MS #3 M-N Crank Wheel without Cam Sync. Small 50mm diameter wheels are available cheaply enough. There are guys on here far more experienced with MS based systems that should be able to help further!

A picture of what you have would help. But from what I can make out you don't appear to have any form of trigger / toothed timing plate - without one you will find it extremely hard to set up the injection / timing. If the dyna S still has the ATU that will not help! Need more info really! Oh and the coolant temp needs to be in coolant - where you have it is mainly hot air - needs to go in oil and be calibrated for oil temps & oil warm ups. Also a 3 bar map sensor has pretty coarse resolution for a N/A engine - 2/3rds of it is ignored - get a 1 bar sensor to make life easier!

Fairly sure that's an adaptation as both lights should be H4 Low and High beam capable.

Certainly not another 'brand' - wire colours are not standard across OEM's! Why not look at switchgear from later models - GSX, GSXR etc. Remember the bike is nearly 40 - 50 years old, spares aren't common and you've been asking for a week! Some people search for years for the correct part for old vehicles!

If the contact points are clean metal there is no benefit either way!

Catch can / bottle - yes about a litre capacity either open or closed with vent. Clutch - only use OEM parts. Stock springs and a lock-up is best solution and generally use either mineral or semi synth oil - anything that doesn't contain 'friction modifiers'. And stock pistons may not last long even at 'only' 0.7 bar boost!

If you cut / shorten the spring then add a spacer - you've achieved nothing! If you want a lower front end with less travel, you shorten the spring and the stanchion or slide the stanchions up through the trees! Or loose the 19" wheel and use a 17" - choices, choices!

Haynes indicates its replacement is with cases split and from memory it does rely on clamp force to keep it in place. Problem is, you'll have to destroy the old one to remove it without splitting the cases and possibly damage the new one trying to fit with them assembled at which point you'll need another seal and need to split the cases anyway!

Never heard of anyone over tightening by manual means so as long as the rattle gun isn't rated at 400+Nm (mine is about 200ftlbs) so just give it FT torque! Have also used carborundum / diamond dust paste on tapers which locks them brilliantly.

Stock coils are 3 ohm and the stock ignition isn't recommended to be used with Dyna 2.2 ohm Grey coils due to the increased amps they will pull through the ign. amp output transistors. Stick coils resistances vary between 1.0 and 1.5 ohms so when paired, some will be ok, some will not - aftermarket ign. outputs are usually a bit more resilient.

So it looks like it was dragged out of a lake, its had DIY 'porting', more than likely guesstimated jetting (which is obviously wrong), pod filters, suspect electrics, the wrong plugs - have I missed anything? Oh and its a shaftie! Start at the beginning with basics - get the carbs function correct as designed ie. #40 pilots and 115? mains and yes all needles have grooves to set their height (and based on everything else - your are likely to be wrong!) Set all the adjustments ie. mixture screws as the manual - usually 1.5 - 2 turns out. New correct plugs. Find out why #2 isn't firing. And for gods sake - jet wash the damn thing - it makes fault finding a whole lot easier!

Not usually - the gearing is done in the wheel hub not the speedo! Tacho's likewise are geared in the head so should be direct swaps - whether they are accurate is a different matter LOL!

I think Arttu did a w/c rotor onto a EFE taper as a charging output upgrade - documented hereabouts? I did first think oil cooler GSXR but as they don't have rotors I told myself to stop being so dumb LOL!

Haynes don't advertise their own manual for this model at that year - they promote a Clymer Manual M373 for the GS550E - 1984 https://haynes.com/en-gb/suzuki/gs550e/1978-1986

Are the tapers actually compatible? Even a slight difference won't get the friction fit required.

Here . . . . . Searched COPs!

Don't assume anything when modifying stuff! Wheels have been known to be offset slightly from the factory. Set a datum centreline from headstock down centre of bike and measure from that. Don't assume chain adjuster marks are the same either side until you've checked them and that they put axle parallel to SA pivot.

All the straight edges noted have been used before as well as LED projection but if you are worrying about getting the wheel straight i'd forget the project as that bit is probably the easiest bit to get right. You either rely on the front or the rear sprockets being square or you'll be chasing your tail evermore!

Its true - aerodynamics = cheap horsepower! Make what you've got, work harder for you. Doing it naked is manly but if the target is going fastest, then the fastest of the fast tuck everything in, shave every bump off and fill every gap possible. And if you have the room - short swing arms are better than long - it's a gearing / weight transfer thing. Never been interested in top speed trials but do admire people that do it, and do it well!

Any simple support is possible although a two bolt rear is required if you want it to sit anywhere near level. The supported back and front version makes it considerably easier to rotate and work on. The coombehouse solution is quite 'elegant' in a ghetto sort of way!

Top end includes barrels off (to do piston rings) so you'd need, base gasket and seals / o rings, drain tube o rings (not strictly necessary but guaranteed to leak if you don't), Head gasket and exhaust gaskets. That's the bare minimum - studs and nuts are fine for re-use. A top end gasket set may be cheaper and will give you additional stuff for a full refurb ie. valve stem seals etc. All can be done with engine in frame but is a damn sight easier if motor is out and on a bench at comfortable height. Once barrels off - stuff rags ' towels into crankcase bores before attempting piston gudgeon pin clip removal - notorious for pinging off into the distance or dropping into open crankcases!

If you can't use filters nor use an airbox, i'd suggest forgetting about CV type carbs - they just don't work well in open air. RS flatslides are designed to run open, with ram pipes and will tolerate filters. Its a nice frame but a bit form over function if the carbs don't work with it.

A general rule for air-boxes is as large as possible or at least 3 or 4x engine capacity and designed so air is as still as possible within the box. But seriously, 000's of bikes run with 36mm CV's perfectly well - easy to tune and get right..................and run with K&N's / RamAirs etc.

Could be - the EFE does have an extra plate from memory!